fbekholden.com

Forgot to mention earlier...

I too tried to plumb in a flared fuel filter for Grace's ute. Have to admit I was lazy and only searched Ryco. From what I found, Ryco don't make any fuel filters that are UN threaded each end (closest is a Z19K that is 1/2-20UNF one end and 8mm pipe the other).

They do make filters that are metric threaded - lots that are either M12 or M14 thread (1.25 or 1.5 thread pitch). M12 flare nuts are normally 1.0 thread pitch (and only good for 3/16" line), but M14 are available in 1.5 pitch. M14 flare nuts suit 5/16" line - perfect for FB/EK.

A Z311 (80mm diameter) or Z373 (55mm diameter) have the M14 connections each end. You'd then need a couple of M14x1.5 flare nuts, and a simple cut-and-flare job, assuming that the Ryco filters are flared and not ORB or similar sorcery.

At that point I got tired, bought a simple Ryco barbed filter and cut-and-shut the lines with clamps similar to your job.

Cheers,
Harv

Yeah, it was just too hard tracking down the fittings. Could have silver soldered some brass ones together, or turned some out on the lathe but then there was the other issue of trying to fit a side mount on the inner sill with a brake line there. If it turns into a problem its easy to return to original fuel line this way too.

Thanks fellas. I bent up a new line for the ute. Used original joined although maybe new nuts. Left the engine end free and just stuck a cheap inline filter on fuel hose between line and pump. No fancy braided line. Gave up on the factory look.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Nice easy day today. All lights finally connected and working. Minor hiccup with the dash indicator lamps the wrong way around. Polly must have done it. Tail lights are 2 different shades of red- hopefully my rego dude is not a pedant.
Only outstanding electrical issue to investigate is the horn circuit not having +ve power at the horn. Not expecting any dramas with this as I tested that circuit as OK before I taped up the harness. Its got to be at the fuse block.

Manifold morning. As suspected, hot box bolts were a bit tight. Managed to get 3 out of 4 without snapping. Fortunately the recalcitrant broke off a bit high so mig'd a bit of metal on and managed to wind it off.

Now faced with dilemma of which side of new gasket goes where. Metal on inlet or metal on exhaust manifold?

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That sort of bolt snap can set you back hours, especially if it breaks down low.

Good thinking with the weld, always more than one way to skin a cat !!!

Greg

Hi Greg, I always try the weld method first because the heat frees up the thread a bit in the process. With large threads you can chase it down the hole a bit even if they break low. Not necessary this time and I had the Easy Outs ready. If they break it's a whole different level of pain.

Ezyouts.... now theres an oxymoron. Snapped ezyouts are the hardest substance known to man.

I would have thought metal surface to the hottest surface - exhaust manifold.

Cheers,
Harv

Yeah Harv- they are made of almost undrillable steel! Sounds like you are experienced in the dark art of extracting E Outs. I learnt the hard way on farm machinery to drill the bolt out almost to the threads and use EOs to extract pretty much just the remaining thread.
Yes, that's the way I did the gasket- thanks.

Wilma left the shed today under her own power, for a short drive into the yard for a wash before more paint work. Everything seems to work, with a clutch free-travel adjustment needed, and a handful of mostly cosmetic jobs still to do.
An engine oil drip from the bottom of the bell housing is the main issue of concern.


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so close ......

Brett027 wrote: Tue Aug 10, 2021 3:09 pmAn engine oil drip from the bottom of the bell housing is the main issue of concern.

Its a grey motor. If there ain't no oil under it, there ain't no oil in it.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv I'm thinking that given the oil is not coming out of the bell housing drain hole that its likely to be a leaking rocker cover gasket?

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Good one. I’d be concerned if there wasn’t any oil coming out.

More paint work??!


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Grey motor leaks is sneaky. Rocker cover, timing cover, engine plate, rear main, dipstick, breather, sideplate all can dribble. The air flow around a grey is weird, and it can track to bizarre places.

Try to track it, clean, let it leak again, repeat. A dentists mirror helps.

Cheers,
Harv