fbekholden.com

Thanks a Rob,
That largely confirms my thoughts.
Cheers
Clay


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Had a search but couldn’t find anything on fitting the Rare Spares gearshift nylon trunnions. Phpto above is how I thought it should go. The manual shows a two piece arrangement without the u shaped joining piece. This seems to be an improvement as the original would have been less stable and probably harder to fit. I pulled off the little levers for a cleanup and to ease fitment of the nylon trunnion piece, as well as the rubber insulators. All a bit tricky with the column in the car but not too bad at least with the rods out the way. Bit of neversieze on the pivot thread. I had to remove the column to firewall lower cover plate in order to unwind the control lever. The upper one had already been removed because I bent it installing the subframe. To reinstall the shift lever I had to get underneath and lever the return spring clear of the end of the shift tube. Seems yo have gone back together ok with full movement, no fouling although it could possibly be a slightly firmer fit. I didn’t lubricate the nylon. What’s the go here?

Another box ticked.


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Clay,

You got the nylon trunnion in the right way up. If it's the wrong way around, it fouls on the lower gearshift shifter lever, and you can't shift into second or reverse properly. Lubrication: maybe a smear of Solidoil, or some moly grease.

Rob

. . . I hit "send" too soon. It's more important to lubricate the selector lever pivot (the threaded stud). Work wheel bearing grease well into the threads to avoid wear.

No worries thanks Rob. I lubed the threads with neverseize. I’ll get some moly on the trunnions.


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It’s taken me a while to come to the realisation I need to do this properly. You guys were right of course. Anyway I’m in to it now.


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Errol62 wrote:


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Hey Clay, that’s starting to look like a rear cab section on a FB yoot. Good stuff

Cheers,

John


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what happened to the other bit you cut out of the wreck grandad?

I was about to ask the same thing, regardless get into it Clay

Neil

Yes I decided to use new steel. The cut was from above the load floor and slightly different. Easy enough to hammer in the flutes on a home made buck although they’re a bit rough. They will tidy up just fine.


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Finally back in the shed. Filled up a few pinholes in the passenger side floor just rear of the cargo wall, and one on the driver side rear seat pan where the floor had been hit up. Bent up a bit of copper hv earth strap as a quenching bar to fit in the ribs. i jacked the bar under the holes and welded in the back. Must have been in and out of the back a dozen times today at least. Tidy result underneath at least. I’ll give the top a grind maybe.
I opened up a couple of holes that are on top of the driver side rear chassis rail. Full of red dirt and rust scale of course. I’ll be able to clean it out and fish oil after holes are welded up. Passenger side is all flushed out thanks to access via the repairs required either end.

The only bog on the car was here. Other side needs work as well. I’d never really done a thorough bog hunt. The ute seemed so honest despite the Massey Ferguson blue respray. The driver sill is spotless. Passenger sill has one 8mm rust hole up front. The rear 200mm outer needs a patch. The adjacent inner and chassis leg also need a bit. Among other things I need to tip her on he side to fix the chassis rail end and inner sill.


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You’ve done heaps already Clay, keep at it mate


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Friday arvo cleaning out the chassis rail. Got most of the sand out, and some rust scale.


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Rubbing
Scraping
Roof has a few dents which I need to try and beat out before I paint underside and install sound deadener anti drum and head lining.


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