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Normal fuel should be fine unless the motor has been worked, I would adjust the timing to see if you can get rid of the pinging with the normal fuel, then keep using it.

Oh good, I felt terrible putting the normal fuel in it anyway, have always tried to look after it and used only Premium up until that one time.

The Auto Elec. set it at 7 degrees and is coming around on Friday to retard the timing a bit, do you guys know what my car should be ideally set at?

Also, lead additive..thoughts/inputs...

Thanks guys

Always timed my car by ear, set timing, go for drive, adjust until it stops pinging then lock it down.
I've been running on normal fuel on my red motored EK for about 9 years and never had a problem, added lube about 5 times all up, I just don't bother any more. Even use E10 and it runs fine .

After getting a spare dizzy bench tested with points (it works fine) I fitted up the pertronix module and magnet...

My mechanic bench tested it...no dice. We took it out and was able to prove it sparked by rubbing the magnet against the module.

It seems the gap between the manget and module is too wide. Instructions say "Set the air gap between the module and magnet sleeve using feeler gauge. This is done in the same manner as points. Not: In some kits the modulesare stationary and do not require air gapping."

I can't see anyway of setting the gap...?





I have Petronix kit 1864A which from reading is the right kit.

The dizzy I dug out of the parts box is a Bosch VJU6BR30 - is anyone able to confirm that is a 12V dizzy for FE to EJ?

Is the magnet seated properly on the shaft ? I had to really push mine on , it was sitting too high on the shaft the first time.

parisian62 wrote:After getting a spare dizzy bench tested with points (it works fine) I fitted up the pertronix module and magnet...

My mechanic bench tested it...no dice. We took it out and was able to prove it sparked by rubbing the magnet against the module.

It seems the gap between the manget and module is too wide. Instructions say "Set the air gap between the module and magnet sleeve using feeler gauge. This is done in the same manner as points. Not: In some kits the modulesare stationary and do not require air gapping."

I can't see anyway of setting the gap...?





I have Petronix kit 1864A which from reading is the right kit.

The dizzy I dug out of the parts box is a Bosch VJU6BR30 - is anyone able to confirm that is a 12V dizzy for FE to EJ?

The dissy in my EK Wagon with a EJ motor is the same Stewart, mine is Bosch VJU6BR36..

Will check it out Blacky. Thanks Wayne.

I had one of these units in my FC, had it for over a year and about 6000miles, to fit the magnet ring into the correct spot I had to "modify" the post/bracket that holds the vac advance rod in place(need to trim it down some), from those last pictures it looks like the ring is sitting too high? Was that post "modified" to let the magnet ring sit further down?

Cheers
Oggz

Hi Oggz

Yes mate it was sitting too high and I had to file back the bracket that holds the vac advance rod in place. All sweet then.

Stewart

Excellent, I reckon these are good units, just take a little fiddling to get going right, took me 3hrs to find out my dissy was a tooth out...

Oggz

I've read in earlier posts as to who has has a Petronix kit in their car the longest..all I can say to that is my Petronix EI is coming up to 3 years of driving every day and is still going strong. If it blew up tomorrow I'd still be happy with the result.

Scotty.

Mines only be in a few weeks but works fine.
If anyones old enough to remember it starts like a valiant.
One grank and zòòooooom....

My Pertronix Ignitor kit turns up today.
Any tricks to putting it in apart from what I've read here? Does the condenser stay on the dissy?

No John, you don't need the condenser at all. Some leave it on for appearances but not have it wired up.

Be sure to measure the remaining height left on the distributor shaft as compared to original set up. I found the magnet ring didn't allow the rotor button to seat all the way down. I made sure the magnet ring was properly seated down and over the breaker cam (measured and rechecked several times and I had to grind the vacuum advance connector arm which confirmed I was all the way down).
Once I was sure the magnet ring was down I had to trim the bottom off the rotor button. I just ground it down ever so lightly on the grinder (fine stone) and refitted several times till I had a small 010" gap between it and the magnet ring.

Thanks Craig. Much appreciated.