MI60FB

Post photos of your pride and joy, or updates on your rebuild!

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baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

harry186 wrote:nothing wrong with bog used propperly, the thing with lead is cost, it's health risks and the time and skill involved in useing it,there's plenty of mega dollar cars coated from front to back in bog before the paint's laid on
Yeah WTF do you do my rear 1/4s shrunk when I mated them to the upper 1/4 panel so I have a shrinkage problem which has caused them to bow, if I beat it out it will shrink even more thinning the metal, so Bog it is.
But let me tell you we are well and truly onthe home straight now! The good shit is starting to happen thing sgetting bolted back on sanded etc feels good after 12months on depressing welding and grinding I am looking at the end result and "I can see it dipping its headligts over the crest of the next hill"
you can quote me on that!
baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Sandblasted my diff and tailshaft today then sprayed it in VHT engine paint red hot holden red more orange than red but looks great, now I want to paint my rims and front end the same colour.
I have sanded back the filler and will be smoothing with fine filler tommorrow night getting ready for high fill sunday and paint next week.
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EK283
Posts: 2460
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:51 pm
State: NSW
Location: SYDNEY NSW

Re: MI60FB

Post by EK283 »

Another freak !!

Going flat out :shock: :shock: How do you guys get the time ??

Anyway good stuff should be a smile on the dial when it pounds the pavement.

Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Checked out my engine bay against the ones I saw in some old holden mag and decided to clean it up started smothing shit out and polishing up everything full day in the shed will post photos 2moro as I have a svere anebriation problem after 8hours on a wire wheel and stubbie every 1/2 hour.
baker12
Posts: 151
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Went to a local panel shop that specialises in resto resprays and was quoted $10K - 15K for a full high fill and interior exterior engine bay spray.
After I slapped the guy in the face and said "dont ever swear at me again" I thought why not ask the FB EK members ifthey know of a relibale and quick turnaround panel shop that can respray or spray my FB let me know I am in Picton NSW and own a car trailer so will transport to the right person who can have my car ready by september, hang on make that July 30th the sooner the better.
Trev
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Re: MI60FB

Post by Trev »

:lol: :lol: :lol: Quick turn around panel shop :lol: :lol: :shock: whats that? :P
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Mick
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Location: Coffs Harbour NSW

Re: MI60FB

Post by Mick »

30 july hope yor kidding :shock: only person i could sujest is bootleger on here but he may be busy and not sure if he'll do 2 pak
sometimes yor just better off shitting in yor hands and clapping

W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Making some very steady progress at the moment.
also moving my office which is above a retail shop into a factory unit, so I will have room to move shortly.
I have sandblasted the crossmember and repainted same as the diff and tailshaft
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also blasted the wishbones and CRS Spindles and steering arms.
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Whilst doing this I noticed that there are 2 mounting poistions for the steering arm to attach to the spindle
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Now given my complete lack of knowledge regardingthe set up of these I wondered if I was to move the steering arm position I might be able to avoid the tyre scrub from the tie rod end as in the photo below

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I am going to fit a tyre to my yet to be blasted rotor and see if it stills hit in the alternate positions.
Also picked up new diff last week 3.55 LSD number brand new so should be shredding some rubber this summer.
baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Anyone got any info re the CRS drop spindles???
New rotors and front shocks arrived today springs being made up 2inch lowered for 253 weight.
Getting new ball joints put in and then put it all back together with nolathane bushes.
I have some plates for the leaf spring pads, does anyone no where I can get a new set of plates to suit???
The diff has a mounting plate welded to it so diff position cant be messed with but I need new.
Input would be appreciated
EK283
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Location: SYDNEY NSW

Re: MI60FB

Post by EK283 »

Mr Baker,

I believe the holes in CRS spindles are for different steering arms (somebody may know for sure).

You need to set the arms so the rack is parrallel as close as possible with the lower wishbones at finished ride height. If they are out you will suffer from bump steer, meaning as the car goes up and down in its suspension travel the wheels go out of alignment, toe in and toe out.

The steering arms can be spaced away from the stubs, inwards to gain some more clearance from the tyres. Make sure you use high tensile bolts if you need to get longer ones.

Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
baker12
Posts: 151
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Waiting on new springs for the front end and bearing and ball joints.
On a plus note though moved into the n ew factory unit today 260 square metres of joy.
9metre clearance and pallett racking. Yee HA.
baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Hi ya'll been a while.
Well I have moved into my new factory and moved all my stuff into it.
Sanded back the POR 15 as nothing will stick to it bog primer paint nothing.
The car is now bare metal as can be seen in the pics.
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Finished the front end new king springs 2 inch lowered new discs bearings shocks and nolothane rubbers.
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Started welding the mounting holes fopr the chrome as I am keeping it smooth no chrome except for the window surrounds and bumpers headlights tail lights, maybe a small holden badge on the boot no bonnet emblem either. Althought there are flying pigs on ebay that look shit hot so they may get a run.
Wasnt happy with the subframe and the rear wheel arches a trip to radum at condell park and bought a rotisserie.
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Some assembly required
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Red the pro enduro rider and master nut locking
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Locked and loaded

FB UNDERBELLY "GRINDER"
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SO Plan is fix underneath so I am happy with the subframe and arches, clean and paint with PRO 15 beacuse nothing sticks to it so mud and road grime wont stand a chance, then put driveline and front crossmember in Paint body then drop engine in, then fitout interior then flog the living daylights out of it.

Till next time Arrivederci.
Trev
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Re: MI60FB

Post by Trev »

Gotta love the new factory :thumbsup: .
Got heaps done, keep it up and we'll see you at the Nationals in MtGambier :D
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baker12
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Re: MI60FB

Post by baker12 »

Spent friday cleaning up the underbody filth and crud that had accumulated over 50 years.
Wire brushed the lot so I can tidy up the floor welds and blow outs from the welder.
The rotiserie makes this a breeze, project was starting to stall as I had no way of finishing up the subframe and sills unless I crawled underneath and welded from below.

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Its raining today so I might head into work and weld in the subframe replacements
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Cal
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Re: MI60FB

Post by Cal »

You know what my question is going to be................. :lol: :lol:


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Top right hand corner :egeek:
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