fbekholden.com

Thanks Greg great idea. I have some shock rubbers stashed away - will check them out. Bolts will be an issue. I am assuming they are a small polished head similar to front bar mount stainless, but may be longer?

Thanks Tim. Much appreciated

Sacrilege !!!!!

Sacre bleu

Brett027 wrote: Sat Jul 03, 2021 9:31 pm Thanks Greg great idea. I have some shock rubbers stashed away - will check them out. Bolts will be an issue. I am assuming they are a small polished head similar to front bar mount stainless, but may be longer?

Actually the bolts are mushroom head stainless that are used on decks and pergolas from a hardware, they are slightly larger than the original but not by much.

Thinking about your over-riders, because your car is so original would you not like to keep it all original looking ??

Greg

Next owner can swap them over if required Greg. Given that I have an EK instrument panel and dash trim already, over riders are just a bit more . Car came to me with all EK over riders, so at least I have half going back to FB.

If it bothers everybody, then I am happy to swap my nice shiny newly chromed EK ones for equally perfect FB ones no questions asked

I wonder if these long FC bolts from Rares would work? They look to be about 4cms long which STim has told me is the length required.

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May be an illusion Brett, but the head shape looks wrong. Should be spherical with a fairly sharp planar cut, where as the picture looks like more of a button shape.

They are essentially a coach head bolt, which is why the stainless ones work pretty good I suppose.




FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Thanks Clay

Missed this one


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Thanks for picture Clay.

Bit of progress on front suspension today. Springs back in and new shocks. Also, sway bar clean up and paint ready for install tomorrow.

@$%^& it has been bitterly cold today. 4 layers and still chilled.

For those not done this yet: Putting springs back in is a different job with no engine weight. The most common way is to use a trolley jack under the bottom wishbone with the open spring held in by the lug on wishbone and in-place at the top by the suspension tower. With no engine in the car, this method won't work as the car starts lifting long before the spring is compressed enough to fit the outer lower pivot pin back in. I used a threaded 1/2 rod as a spring compressor to get it aligned. It worked well.
Once sway bar is back on, that will be the front and rear suspension and steering reinvigorated with all new wearing bits.

It's 4 oclock, (edit not 7, max of 5 today) 4°C and I'm now inside in front of the fire.
Glad today is over, as springs are a bit scary with all that kinetic energy waiting to slap you between the eyes.

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Bloody good job done. Im feeling the cold here too. Trackies over drill trousers and ugg boots.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Old trick for the springs that Dad taught me. Jack it up exactly as you have, but loop a chain under the jack and up over the upper control arm. Join the chain with a u-shackle. As the jack lifts, the chain bottoms out and stops the upper arm lifting away. Safer (less chance of an unexpected Sproing!!!) than a threaded rod. May have to pad out the chain up top though if the control arms have fancy paint.

Cheers,
Harv

Hi Harv,
Thanks for your experience.
I posted this for people who have not yet had a crack at this job and have only the manual to go on.
Using the jack to compress the spring in the housing until the car starts raising and then using the threaded rod in combination with raising the jack is in my view as safe as it gets. The rod can't let go because as you tighten it you raise the jack. The pressure stays with the jack and the spring is contained by the housing and the wishbone. Unfortunately the picture showing the rod inside is cut off and you can't see the jack under the wishbone.
Right at the end point when you are lining up the pivot pin, having the fine adjustment of the rod makes it much easier. With the engine in, the jack on it's own may be enough- I don't know as I haven't done it on an FB.
My main message here is: Just be super safe when playing around with compressed suspension springs.

Swaybar finally on today and a few odd jobs finalised underneath. Only 2 bolts on the swaybar, but I still managed to snap off 50% of them. Easy Out worked well, so only a minor delay. Just about the only original bolts I used on the whole build and the first snapped bolt.

2 poor quality photos today. One showing rear bumper seal - you can just make it out about half way where the rubber meets the grey zinc paint. Couple of mastic or silicone dabs needed to finish off at tail light corners.

Other photo showing suspension all together- finally

Only other major jobs left to do on the cradle are brake bleed and adjustments and install a fuel filter at fuel line joiner next to inner sill. Exhaust would be easier to do now too, but I think it might be better to start from the engine pipe attached to the motor once in place??

Recent discussion about leaking fuel tanks at sender unit has me thinking I should have a look at that again before it's full of fuel.

May take a rest day tomorrow: you can have too much of a good thing. And, a hair cut is needed badly.

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