Chev EK

[rosco]

Does anyone know if we can still get the little square clips that go into the rear pillar that holds the stainless roof moulding on when pushed in ????

Greg, I made mine up - I used stainless strip and bent it around a small extension bar. I then drilled it and silver soldered a brass rod.
The clip sort of looks like a question mark with a brass rod pin in it.

I drilled out the holes in the pillar to interference fit round nylon inserts and the brass rod simply was a push fit into the nylon bushes. It will never rust. The nylon inserts are simply wall plugs. They were held in place and sealed with butyl-mastic

The rolled stainless strip "clips" in between the ridges of the gutter trim.

If I ever need to remove this trim, it's simply a case of prising the pins out of the bushes.

I have pix of all this, but can't access my files for now.. will post when microscunge finally fixes the current update issues to my Windows 8.1

frats,
Rosco

[Harv]

.Does anyone know if we can still get the little square clips that go into the rear pillar that holds the stainless roof moulding on when pushed in ????

Nothing like stainless moulds flying across the shed at the speed of light. You learn to only use the bottom of the buff pretty quick

Any of this help?

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 1&start=15

Cheers,
Harv

[In the Shed]

[quote=EK283 post_id=242546 time=1582957909 user_id=348]
It was a productive day today !!

Bought this bench grinder from the Kmart days for $30 nearly 30 years ago and still going strong !!!

Did some stainless polishing.


Looks good Greg,
I reckon you have got good value out of that $30 investment!

[rosco]

I bought the set of four stainless door aperture scuff plates from Sam Crupi - they come in a satin finish.
I had every intention of polishing them when I bought them. I told Sam what I was going to do - he had not seen anyone do this.
The first one I did was the front left... I got it so hot that it actually bent... I had to polish the underside of that one to get the bend out of it.
I was a little more patient with the following three.
I also hand polished the original aluminium inserts and then coated them with POR Glisten PC - it has lasted the 7 years without any sign of tarnishing or dulling... the stainless remains perfect as well.

If anyone decides to do this, be very very careful when introducing the plates to the buffing wheel - under no circumstances do this with either end pointing towards the spinning buff wheel... the results could be disastrous. Running the ends up from under the spinning wheel is a much safe method than trying to prevent the ends of them getting too close to the oncoming wheel.

I found the "grain" of Sam's plates was easiest buffed out using a front/rear placement to the buff - running them cross ways seemed to cause issues with getting out these marks...
I used a stitched rag buff to do most of the work with a grey dressing.
I finished up with a calico buff and some SST green dressing.

frats,
Rosco

[Harv]

I bought the set of four stainless door aperture scuff plates from Sam Crupi - they come in a satin finish.

Thankfully, he is selling them now without the satin finish. They come with the plastic protective layer, which peels off to reveal nice shiny stainless. I'm grateful, as after doing the rest of the stainless I'm not sure I had the patience to polish the scuff plates .

Cheers,
Harv

[rosco]

I'm grateful, as after doing the rest of the stainless I'm not sure I had the patience to polish the scuff plates .

Harv, you haven't touched the tip of the iceberg yet.... I love polished stainless.... to me, it's better than chrome - less work and not subject to rust... a quick buff lasts almost forever.

After the scuff plates, I bought my first couple of stainless bolts.. ground off the markings then started work working them up.
I was so happy with the result, I also did the 6 hex sides on each as well.
When they were fitted - it was the start of a meniacal mission to do the engine bay with every bolt, nut, screw and washer that did not have a high tensile requirement... so far, there are over 360 of them in my engine bay... included in these were the threaded screws from fuel pump, wiper motor and other accessories and replaced them with domed head stainless allen key types.

I made up a special jig rod to hold the bolts and present them to the buff.... prior to this buffing, all of them were hand ground on an oil-stone until all markings were removed then run over progressive grades of wet/dry on top of the oil stone until all markings were removed and a satin finish was obtained.
The nuts were easier than I first thought - I learned that by fitting a nut to a bolt, I could hand ground both the hex on the nut and also the bolt at the same time. I did not grind the face of the nut - they all came up quite well just by using the stitched rag then calico buffs and dressing compounds.

The grille (EK) looks particularly impressive with these bolt heads... I also used a bit of "artisan" craftsmanship and aligned all the heads with a flat uppermost.. and all nuts likewise. Self tappers were similarly fitted using a convention of having them fitted in an "X" instead of a "+".
It was only on rare occasions that I had to do any "shimming".... I used nylon washers under the stainless ones on the grille - they compress slightly and allow the head to be aligned. The screws generally afford sufficient leeway to either go + or - minus enough under compression to do likewise.

Not many "see" this - but to those who know to look for it - it certainly gets some response.... it's an old craft - like so many others, they are being "lost".------- how I hate rattle guns and electric drills used as screw and bolt drivers...

I have had people look into my bay and tell me they are aware of "something", but can't "see" it...... I let them struggle for a bit, then ask them if they have noticed anything "strange" about the way the bolts and screws have been fitted.... this opens their eyes and you can see the penny drop once it it brought to their attention..and then they usually take a step back away from me.... I seem to have grown a second head...

Meniacal.. most certainly... but appreciated (occasionally).

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Ok folk,
with the kind assistance of gpi.. I'm back - now can access my files.
Just to make sure this will work - I'll add a couple of pix below of my Crupi home polished scuff plates... with POR Glisten PC coated factory inserts (with the painted periwinkles ((sic))...)

scuff plates rhs 002 mail.jpg (203.56 KiB) Viewed 615 times

scuff rear lhs 001 mail.jpg (128.36 KiB) Viewed 615 times

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

Ooh, err..... bottom lip tremblingly pleasing to the eye. The inserts are precious indeed. This is inspiring Rosco.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[EK283]

Stage 2 and much better this time around, in fact I rubbed the whole door and avoided any rub throughs.

This means some colour possibly tomorrow !!!

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IMG_0883-001.JPG (107.02 KiB) Viewed 574 times

Guru question, I went to sandblast the headlight buckets and noticed the surface is quite hard, I was thinking they are ceramic coated due to heat from the light globes ?? Anyone have any ideas on that ????

Greg

[Harv]

Mine didn't like the wire wheel either. Agree they are pretty hard. Not sure about ceramic, but perhaps just well-cooked paint.

I settled for a good scuff-up and some epoxy enamel.

Cheers,
Harv

[EK283]

Thanks Harv,

Further investigation has revealed its more than likely enamel, baked on the inside from the light heat most likely.

Bloody hard going even with the sand blaster !!! Inside is harder than the outside.

Regards Grerg

[59wagon]

I blasted mine to bare metal Greg. Don’t recall it being too hard.
You’re doing great mate.
Cheers,
John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rosco]

An old timer once told me - "if paint is stuck on that damned hard - why are you trying to take it off?..... you won't get a better undercoat than paint which is extremely difficult to move."

He suggested I just "key" it up and paint over the top... I did this with my headlamp bowls... used an enamel undercoat then Pacific Blue hammered metal epoxy enamel... probably won't see the light of day again...
I have H4's in there... they throw an excellent beam from the height of our vehicles. I fitted domed headlamp protectors to keep the "rounded" face.. the H4's I have came with a "flat" face....
... hoping I don't need to replace one of the halo bulbs......so far, all good....

frats,
Rosco

[EK283]

Thanks Guys,

Headlight buckets have been blasted bare ready for some paint soon.

Got the colour on some bits and will continue tomorrow,

IMG_0891-001.JPG (104 KiB) Viewed 508 times

IMG_0890-001.JPG (104.39 KiB) Viewed 508 times

I experimented with some reducer today and it has really flattened out the orange peel, it will make polishing a little easier.

Regards Greg

[Errol62]

Yum. I’ve been using 10-20% reducer in my etch prime because that is what paint man and tds say to do.

Your hanging rig for the doors looks nice and sturdy.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie