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Speedometers tend to seize up, then the cable shears off.

Pull the speedo out, then try to turn the little bronze bit where the cable goes in at the back. It should rotate freely. If it's sticky, or won't turn, you've found the problem. Fixing it's not too hard -

Remove the bezel and front glass (you'll need a narrow screwdriver to bend up the bezel where it's folded over onto the body).
Undo the two big screws holding the case onto the movement and remove the movement.
If the rubber washer's come out with the movement, peel it off.
Right where the case goes on, you'll see a little (~3 mm) welch plug. Pull it out with a dental pick or O-ring tool.
Underneath is a felt wick. Pull it out too.
Now go to work with WD-40 in the hole. It may take a few hours to get get the gummed-up oil out of the bearing, but be patient. Once the shaft turns freely, put a couple of drops of non-gumming oil into the hole, wash and dry the felt, oil and install it, then the plug.
Reassemble the speedo.

Then inspect the inner cable. Make certain it engages properly in the back of the speedo, and also into the driven gear.

Rob

The highly detailed info on the Speedo is great thanks guys it should be a big help whilst I have it apart this deep then I might colour code the dials to the coleen green aswell.
I also managed to get the stereo wired and finished with a pioneer under seat sub. Doesn't take up much room and really brings quality to the tunes. The stereo is in the new center console I made it's a round boating one,it's wired under the seat and the console is removable just sits in place on valcro and just one stereo plug to undo and the car side wiring can hide under the seat.
Also got the seat spacers in , I got those from the fe fc forum..

Errol62 wrote:Good news on the voltage. So you kept the small battery then?

Sounds like your cable may have sheared, and possibly speedo partially seized as Stephen says. Old cars huh.

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Yes mate ,so far I still have the small battery, had it running also with headlights on and the stereo pumping out some Colter Wall and Charley Crockett.

Tidy as. Console looks good. Details please?

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Errol62 wrote:Tidy as. Console looks good. Details please?

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Nothing to fancy just made a cardboard template to suit the rod shop tunnel then made it out of mdf rounded the corners and had a trim shop stitch and trim it from the spare roll of trim I got when I had the interior made. Two cup holders the round stereo and a square spot for keys and junk.
I hated covering the open floor but practicality 10/10. More so with the phones, wallets, house keys etc. No glove box or dash room for the stereo now days and sick of burning me aggs when driving with a hot coffee. I'm away atm but can get more pics or measurements when home next.

Thanks Clint. That's OK mate. Good enough to know you built it yourself. Looks like the ones I've seen available on line but it fits the floor perfectly by the look and colour matches.

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Double edit

G'day all.
Since fitting the air con and now with the sniper running the motor cleaner (leaner sounds bad),i think that's to do with less fuel for cooling? it's been getting hot if I'm stationary for a full set of traffic lights?
The cars never had a shroud but I think it needs one.
I have minimal room between the oem fan and the radiator but have made a bit of a template. The fan doesn't sit in the center if the radiator.

I'm after information on how much spacing a mechanical fan needs around it for motor movement and how deep for pulling air.
I have the std 4 blade fan 15.5" × 1.5" deep blade and also a later Holden ? 6 blade 14.5" x 1 3/4" deep
But unsure what to use
Would anyone know who can build a ally shroud in Perth. ?

I do have a thermo set up but that will also need relocation and ally welding,modding as the one of the thermos hit the water pump pulley and alternator pulley, plus I'm at the limit of the little battery under the bonnet and two more thermos would mean a rear boot battery install. Picture shows how they would have to sit.
Thanks all.

Apologies some pics are upside down it won't save them corrected.

To find out how much clearance you need, cable tie some cardboard (from free Bunnings boxes) in front of the fan, and either side, hard mount to the body. Go for a “spirited” drive - acceleration, brake, some curves. Move the cardboard closer. Repeat until it hits. Then add 5mm clearance to that.

Cheers,
Harv

Leaner mixture does run hotter

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You want the blade halfway into the shroud, try not to make it flat with a lip like the CAD template, you want to angle it to maximise airflow. If you can make the bits out of ally and have them ready to weld I will talk nicely to some mates and see if I can get it tigged up for a carton

Thanks guy's.
After calling 6 sheet metal shops with no luck the 7th said not a problem they did a shroud last week. So I have dropped the radiator and fan off with a heap of measurements and they are making up an ally one for me. As advised it will be bowed as such or shaped toward mid fan avoiding the flat sheet and ring idea I had.
Will see how it turns out next week and hopefully solves the little heat issue.

Little few updates over the very high 30s this summer with the ac on since having the fan shroud it's solved the traffic light overheating issues and it still lets in enough airflow on the freeway to keep cool.
Back to the fan belt issues next.
Happy days.

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Hi Clint,

Hows that sniper injection going ?

Greg

EK283 wrote:Hi Clint,

Hows that sniper injection going ?

Greg

Hi mate.
To be honest, I hardly get to drive the FB these days, but when I have, it's been great.
I can take a cruise without using a whole tank of fuel.
No flat spots from traffic lights or over fueling fumes as such at idle.
All the gauges you need are on the screen.
More power to cruise and can get up longer hills.
Remote tuning, do some driving to what the tuner asks, and hit the logging button on the screen. It saves to a file, upload that to email, and send it off.
It has the output to hook the air-conditioning button to but haven't needed it. When I turn the ac on, it just idles up slightly anyway.
Fuel trims right off when cruising down the freeway at 100. All on the screen.

Issues I've had.
A slight miss initially, and it was due to an exhaust leak between the manifold and oxygen sensor. The tuner picked up a slight exh leak just from the files I sent him. .

Also the clamp on o2 sensor bracket leaked so I had a thread ring welded in that sorted another leak.

The fuel pressure gauge on the sniper blew the glass out, leaking fuel over the hot motor, which was scary, that was a top quality glass gauge but got that replaced from the performance shop. Not a holley issue.

Fuel hammer as the sniper with Dead head fuel system, I used the sniper return less pump, but the smallest pump, I think, is 340lph, which i think is too big in conjunction with the 2 barrel sniper running dead head. The fuel pressure regs couldn't keep up. I made the system return less, and it fuel pressure now sits much smoother on 60psi. But also found tiny bits of sworfe on the pump pressure reg filter from manufacturing, which could also have given initial fuel hammer issues, and found I had installed the pump pick up sit hard on the bottom of the tank so I raised it off the bottom of the tank which also cut the pump noise in half so its nice and quiet now. so not 100% on which fix fixed the issue.
Another good option and maybe more smaller pump size options would be like blackys tank set up using a dead head ve or return vy commy pump setup as they have a swirl pot built in. But I haven't had and fuel starvation hill issues.

Cold start, i sent back and forth 3 morning coldstart logs and got it working good but that was between winter and summer i think, now the true winter cold is here it could do with more cold start tuning but I just let it warm up idle for a minute before backing out of the shed. My laziness, not the car.
I'm probably only using 40% features of what it's capable of, but overall, I'm happy with it at what it is doing for me.


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