fbekholden.com

Very nicely done Drew.
Neil

Cheers fellas.

Rear brake lines done now…

Actually start assembling the suspension tomorrow to get her back on her wheels!

Not that I have any wheels as yet… I’d better look into that haha

You are very good at this Drew

bloody overachievers

looks great mate, well on track to be at the nationals

Blacky wrote: Mon Dec 13, 2021 3:13 pm well on track to be at the nationals

Mate i like the encouragement but geez I’m not Wonder Woman!

Harv wrote: Sun Dec 05, 2021 6:52 pm
If you get stuck for the brass block, give me a yell. I've only just taken the one out of the FB to run the disk brakes. I have no idea where I put it, but it will be on top of the pile, wherever it is

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv, I have my fingers crossed they won’t leak.
God knows I have done the tube nuts up FT so I’m screwed if they do leak haha.

Nice work Drew,

Those lines look very sharp indeed. Good stuff

Stephen

Morning peoples.

So I got the the rear springs and diff housing fitted.
Pretty straight forward and it looks the goods.

I was going to rebuild the diff center myself but I need specialist tools and expertise that I don’t have so I dropped the banjo center of the the diff specialist at Marion Road.

They won’t have it done u til after Xmas but that’s cool

Next up is fitting is front end.

Dropped it in place with my brother yesterday and it’s sits in place well with new rare spares rubber.

However the front leg which mounts under the radiator has a big gap to fill.

Does this look normal?
I would have thought it should be sitting down closer more flush

My brother daughter to add a spacer to fill the gap but I’m looking for opinions on if it looks correct to you guys please.

I just placed a different front end on for a comparison and it looks the same …

Certainly looks odd to me…

Hi Drew, that's how they look. Strange but true.

Nothing unusual Drew, as Brett says. Just bolt it up before you do the long bolts.

Great progress.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Mine was the same as that to at the time I asked the same question

Drew,

The outrigger will only sit correctly in place when the four big bolts are installed and tight. The "top hat" rubbers have to compress a fair amount.

And: it's best if, on disassembly, you (had) marked the short and long tubular spacers so that they go back in their original positions. Both types of spacers come in different lengths. There's a long, long spacer; and a short, long spacer. The long, long spacer goes at the rear. The short spacers are used to set the amount of compression in the rubbers. See the workshop manual for the gory details, including the use of a micrometer depth gauge (as if your average mechanics' shop will have one of those . . .) You want to compress the front rubbers a bit more than the rear so that the outrigger tongue is centred in its rubber when the U-clamp is in place.

But you have machine tools, and can adjust spacer lengths to suit.

Hint: king-pin front suspensions like lots of positive caster. That happens when the outrigger tongue sits close to the front subframe tie member.

Hint: Assemble the control arms onto the the front crossmember before you put the front suspension in the car. And it's much easier to install the front springs when the engine and gearbox are in the car..

Rob

Like the others said mate, normal . Looking good