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Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 10:16 pm
by James
Hi fjwally, where you getting your front end rebuilt? Locally or doing it yourself?
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:22 am
by FJWALLY
Local mechanic who's a mate James - it's not in bad shape for the most part - rubbers are gone and outer tie rod ends sloppy and decided to change the springs and shocks but thought seeing as most rubbers were gone I might as well have it pulled out and replace the lot as they are so easily available.
a good clean and a coat of chassis black and re-assemble.
King pins are solid - drag link had never been adjusted so might not even need a refurb kit and just a clean out and tighten up one turn.
Get an alignment and she's ready for the next 40K.
Only problem with mates is they take a bit longer to get it done

Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:46 pm
by Craig Allardyce
5 months to go and shitloads to do!
Finished off the diff centre today. New pinion seal and backlash check.
Re-sheaved rear springs. Axle bearings and inner seals tomorrow and fit up diff housing.
Also just wondering if any others have ever noted what spline type they have with regards to pinion yokes. I never released till now that they produced course and fine spline yokes for the 3.89:1 diff centres up to EJ. Only found out when I went to fit a replacement yoke and it was a fine spline......bugger.

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Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:47 pm
by Craig Allardyce
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:30 am
by Trev
Another job done, 1 step closer.
I'm not sure if I'm seeing things rite???
Is that the rear end going back in without being painted to a mirror finish Craig?

Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 9:28 am
by Craig Allardyce
Yes Trev............Belinda has banned me from the wire wheel and buffers. Man its so hard........
I keep telling her I need to buff up the threads. She laughs immensely as I grimace through the pain of self control!

Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 11:43 am
by Trev
It's therapeutic, I can lend you that paint brush if you want?
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 1:00 pm
by Craig Allardyce
Thanks Trev. I let you when I'm close to loosing my shit.

Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:34 pm
by Craig Allardyce
Dodgy shit some people do. Found this today. Both rear wheel cylinders and pistons measure up as 1"
One cylinder had 1 1/16" cups jammed in it. Not to mention grease under the adjuster caps. Top left is a slightly swollen 1 1/16" cup. The two right hand ones are 1" and are huge! Shit happens when you mix mineral based compounds with non compatible fluids and materials.
Done for the day....off to the pub. See you next week.

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Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 9:15 pm
by Craig Allardyce
No surprise Tim..........they didn't return. Wheels locked up in various states. I have yet to get to the front cylinders.
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 6:00 am
by Craig Allardyce
Sorry Tim, they did. As I said very early on, she's a bit of a mudguard. Still trying to think of a easy way to clean out the brake lines thoroughly I.e. what sort of chemical can flush them clean as they are pretty bad. Might have to make up new ones.
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 9:25 am
by Blacky
So easy to make new ones , why risk it ? When I did the RHD conversion on my '46 I wiggled one of the brake lines and it snapped ! looked fine from the outside and was still working at the time.
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 10:02 am
by Craig Allardyce
Yeh good point Blacky. I procrastinate too much over some things. I was thinking of going over to silicon fluid later on anyway so I might as well bite the bullet...........but let me think about it.

Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 8:59 pm
by Craig Allardyce
Re: Seagull Grey EK 2106
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 9:08 pm
by FJWALLY
Looking great Craig.
I see you have those same glue marks on the upright section behind the seat - what was stuck on there originally as nothing was in mine when I got it.
Also i had a couple holes in the drivers side floor where the cross member goes under and I can see it is full of mud - what do you suggest to A clean it and B -protect it - do I just drill a couple of 20mm holes in either end and try and flush it out? pump as much rust converter and fishoil in as I can afterwards?