fbekholden.com

Sure is oldneck.
But what choice do you have?
Unless you fabricate by hand.
Will post some updated pics, today I have an easy day so will be cutting out drivers sills and pans and welding in new ones.

Been A while since last post still working hard but shit the welding and grinding is a pain in the arse, has lost its appeal.
anyway I am finished welding all major pieces, drivers sills, pans under the rear seats, rear subframe ,rear 1/4s filled some holes and welded some patching under the boot rear.








I have also dropped the diff out cleaned up the housing ready for a coat of Red Hot Holden Red VHT engine enamal also painting the tailshaft to match.

See my favourite new tool the Professional Nibbler I picked this up at the Sydney easter show cost a couple of hundred bucks but has helped me cut out every bit of patching metal with ease.

How much welding have I done do you say???

That much welding!! And they arethe ones that I kept.
So Where am I at Now?
OK I have started sanding back the POR 15 that I painted on to stop surface rust and will be filling all low sections where I have welded, sanding back then high filling. Grinded back all high sections of metal (Duckshit) from welding and ready to start this week.
Have ordered some red hot holden red for the engine bay interior and boot and some satin black for the outside.
Diff centre 9inch has gone today to D R Diffs to be rebuilt with a 3.50 to 1 ratio it had 2.75 to 1 ratio but that was more suited to highway cruising I want something that can be dragged at nostalgia drags and still achive mild economy on the highway. This is a screamer not a cruiser.
Camtech has cam grind ready now that I have decided on diff ratio ordered roller rockers as well.
Heads are getting ported and extractors port matched.
Parts to Date
Front/ Rear Floorpans
Left / Right Inner and Outer Sills
Parcel Shelf
3 doors
Rear 1/4s
Aussie Desert Cooler Street / Strip Radiator
Castlemaine Rod SHop Extractors Jet hot coated sterling
Diff Rebuild
Ice Street/Strip Race ignition
Sheet Metal
about 150 Grinding Wheels
12 Spools of Mig Wire
3 tins of POR 15
Subframe Repair Sections x 3
New Stainless Tank
Cam
Pistons
Conrods
Lifters
Rockers
Rocker Covers Alloy
Billet Water Pump Housing
New Speedo Cable
New Handbrake Cable
100 cases of beer
4 packs of bandaids
3 tubes of betadine
carton of quikeze
Will be getting braided hoses for brakelines and am still undecided on the wheels.
Did not pump wheel wells until I decide on the look after paint as I dont know whether to mini tub or push the the wheel wells out to suit.
So I am looking at wheel combos over thenext couple of weeks, I still like the idea of red rims and white walls but the more it progresses I think maybe chrome showheels, faAAAAARRRRRRKKKKKkkkkkkkk! what do you do to many questions not enough answers. Just have to wait and see when the paint is completed.
Photo as of 530pm tonight


I promise to stay in touch

f#%k well done

I used about 3 rolls of wire before I moved on to a big roll and never ran out again .
Looking good .

harry186 wrote:f#%k well done

Yeah

That's what I call commitment

Nice work

I want to smooth out the boot thought about laying a sheet of fibreglass over it and painting just for looks intead of carpet. would look awesome with the stainless tank.

Top effort !!!!!!

Some days you just feel like taking to the damn things with a match, then other days you cant get enough

All in all there will be saved souls when the car hits the road with a new lease of life !!!!

Regards Greg

keep up the good work.... take my hat off to ya..

baker12 wrote:See my favourite new tool the Professional Nibbler I picked this up at the Sydney easter show cost a couple of hundred bucks but has helped me cut out every bit of patching metal with ease.

I have one of those nibblers, but not the drill clamps you have to hold it to a bench
It would make it so much easier to use that way

Great work on the beast

Cheers
Jeff

BLOODY HELL how keen are you,looking good

awesome work.

welding and grinding is a pain in the arse, has lost its appeal.

welding and grinding is a pain in the arse, has lost its appeal.

3rd that , keep going your winning

Started filling rear 1/4s today with fibreglass filler to smooth out low spots before I put on high fill, looks like shit now but with some filing and sanding will smooth it all out nicely.




I have deliberatley put more than I need on so that I can achieve a uniform finish and maitin the original lines, except with metal behind the bog this time.
One of my mates said you shouldve used lead! I gave it some some thought until an old panel beater I drink with at the pub said "If lead was that good why dont they use it now" so I chose the fibreglass filler.
If anyone is sydney right now it is friggin freezing and blowing a gale so my shed tonight is off limits have a go at my shed companions you can only see its arse end but the old possum is f#$fin freezin

RAMBO is keeping guard.

So tommorrow night give the filler a good sand and file and top up with fine filler.
These are the only areas I need to fill so next step will be the high fill after a good rough sand then POR15 again then primer and paint.
Any ideas for the underbody, I have heard that ute linier is the go. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

nothing wrong with bog used propperly, the thing with lead is cost, it's health risks and the time and skill involved in useing it,there's plenty of mega dollar cars coated from front to back in bog before the paint's laid on