fbekholden.com

Mick is right my engineer is letting me put ls1 into my fc and fb holdens
regards fatboy

FATBOY wrote:Mick is right my engineer is letting me put ls1 into my fc and fb holdens
regards fatboy

I can't believe you said that "Mick is right...................."
Now we will never hear the end of it.

PS. I only just found out who Mick was.............

Yep like I said you can go bigger just depends who's marking it off and what they want done

one very well known engineer I spoke to wanted torshion twist test test done for a 253 308 307
plus a few other tests done
when I talked to a couple of other engineers they were not wanting any such tests done
and were more then happy with what I wanted to do like my current engineer

Some floor tunnel work ended up using the auto tunnel I had
had to make some small extensions for the brace and
will brace the under side aswell for extra strength
any way its in

tunnel looks good, re engine mods/upgrades I was under the impression if you painted it grey you could put anything in....
quite sure I saw a grey V8 with 2 modded grey/red covers ,looked great!
colour has a U

Nice work, Jay - I probably went a bit overboard with mine.... just a bit - well, more than that....

My first attempt back in '83 to accommodate the Aussie was an absolute disgrace.... but it was rock solid - just had to hide everything under the carpet - but it still bulged out where the crude attempt to create that upper support across the top of the tunnel looked like it was the Story bridge...

My last attempt was an absolute overkill - right down to the "arch" I created from 2"x1" RHS cut and segmented to create a round arch.
I wanted it under the cover this time - and went to the 'nth degree to angle the feet so that it welded into the floor cross frame - about 1" inside the inner sub-frame mounts.

The engineer I spoke with wanted full seam weld on top of the cover and 50% stitch weld underneath.

I fabricated up a removable lower section under the arch which incorporates the handbrake frame.

I do have a CRS chassis kit - but haven't fitted it yet - it is the full application with paddles which connect the engine mounts right back to the front of the rear spring mounts. I'll fit it one day - but don't need to do so for now - the engine exchange was done in 83 and recorded with VicRoads formerly the Victoria Police and RTA - I have kept copies of every registration label since with the red motor clearly numbered on the label and registration document.

When I fitted my cover - I got clever and placed it over the hole in the floor... I then drilled four holes in the furthermost corners and fitted self-tappers... I continued to do this all the way around until the cover pulled down neatly (with just a little persuasion from a ball-pein hammer) against the floor....

I migged some tack welds around near the tappers - then removed them, finally welding in the holes until all were removed. The final process was simply creating a full seam weld around the entire join.
From underneath - I welded 1" stitches 1" apart..... as far as I know, this is what is required.

I was very careful to apply some "welder's etch" over the weld after grinding down and brush-wheeling the finish. It has zinc in it which is necessary to prevent corrosion due to anode/cathode issues in dis-similar metals.
Once that was down - I just went overboard painting the entire floor - and under the rear seat... all of it back to bare shiny steel......
There is that much epoxy enamel on my cabin side floor - I could take the metal out - and there wouldn't be any noticeable difference.
The underside is done in POR 15.... over "tie coat" over epoxy enamel.... over metal primer.... over fishoilene... all repeated probably six to eight times - except the POR.... just two coats - 2 hours apart....

I haven't had any issue with what I incorporated - and neither will you...
The stretch of the V8 will certainly let you know if your work is on the light side - but from what I see - and what I have seen - yours will more than satisfy any engineer..... but you will probably need the chassis rail kit, including "paddles" - or, like many do - make up one yourself.

good going, Jay - keep up the good work...

frats,
Rosco

Thanks Guys
that floor tunnel of yours rosco is top shelf mate

At the end of the day, Jay - it's covered by carpet.... and most just don't go so far as to take a peek from underneath.
Both you and I know we've done it the right way - and time will surely be our reward..

frats,
Rosco

yeah rosco I have made up the chasiss kit already
should be nice and strong when in im getting closer to fitting
everything back in regarding running gear and trail fit of motor

If it's any help, Jay - when you come to fit the chassis rail kit - a bloke told me to literally jack the car up using it - then drill the holes through and bolt the front section in..... then weld the rear feet under the front rear spring mount.
This way - it is fully forced to support and strengthen the existing body frame-work. The paddles simply bolt on to the front and up to the original bellhousing engine mount holes.
For a V8, an additional brace is required from those sub-frame/bellhousing bolts to the engine mounts on the cross-member of your choice...
That was my plan - until I was informed that I only need to follow through with the work if I increase the size of the "registered" motor....
As mine is already "registered" with the 179 - I was advised that it is not necessary.... all my work was done before stringent engineering was mandatory.
My insurer is fully aware of my position - and states that for all intents and purposes - if it is legal with VicRoads - I am covered.

I do not want to ever test the credibility of any authority.... never know, I might just do the fitting - the old bus is now only used for special outings, club runs and trips to the nats.... it will probably never tow again, and I doubt that the limited power of the red is ever going to stretch or weaken the body.
I have towed a 3 tonne excavator plus trailer with it.... with the old 3.55 diff..... motor wasn't "happy".. but the body held up without any increase in gaps or any creaking sounds between gears...

With the grunt of the 8 (and also the V6's) - I would seriously suggest the full rail kit be fitted..... although, if you have doors that close that little bit too tight - hold off until you tow something big and then fit the kit..... (joking!).

frats,
Rosco

painted and decaled the v8 air cleaner today came up ok

thats come up beauty mate...

looking forward to seeing you get it in

cheers
Nathan

Thanks Nomad
looks ok on the motor aswell still need to do some painting and gaskets
new water pump just arrived so can now fit that and get it ready to trail fit
in the bay

Jay, I don't know what it is...... but focus is always on the air cleaner in an engine bay..... you've done yourself proud - now, don't scratch it.....
and..... please pay the same finite detail to the breather cap...

I remove both of mine in lay-up spells.... and fit blanking plates.... the breather and air cleaner cover stay inside the cabin.....

frats,
Rosco

That looks great. Awesome.
New stickers = new paint, they go together.