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Errol62 wrote:All the wiring goes out the main grommet Joe. From memory they are bundled with the oil, coil etc for the first bit. The hydramatic floor pan runs the same EJ on internal switch for some reason.

I have an ignition ring you can have. Been a bit slack and was going to post the circlip tomorrow so I will send the ring in the same letter.


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Thanks for this. So on closer inspection, my dipswitch wiring exits through the grommet inside the main harness, and has then been redirected back inside through one of the side holes! I suppose that was to suit the internal style switch. Hmm. It’s gonna be a real jerk to re-route this back to factory configuration. I might end up going through the column, stay tuned...

Clay that would be great - I’ve just been through the bucket full of dash/interior bits and didn’t chance across an ignition locknut.

PM me your bank details! Cheers


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Rerouted dip-switch wiring down the firewall in the engine bay, used a P-clip attached to a column shroud bolt to route it away from accel linkages. It hugs the firewall, via the lower shroud wiring clip, avoiding the handbrake cable also.





Another piece of the puzzle done


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Mate it’s gratis


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Errol62 wrote: Tue Jun 26, 2018 7:44 am Mate it’s gratis


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Gratis? Great!


iubentium... Joe

Sent this arvo


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my favourite no-name Dynamat went down on the driver’s side floor boards tonight, followed by some plastic backed, lightweight felt underlay.





This process always takes longer than anticipated, I’ll probably be on it all night tomorrow too. I decided to just use the black marine carpet I have a heap of, those guys I was tempted to get a Knox carpet set. I might see how watertight the screen/plenum is first before I go ruining that...

Dropping my 13” wheels to the tyre shop tomorrow also, to have the tyres removed so I can set about stripping and re-painting the rims ready for new white band tyres.

The to-do list is getting a bit more fun now.


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I finished the interior today.



Used contact adhesive to stick underlay down, cutting out a seperate piece for the trans inspection cover.



The carpet is just some old marine carpet off the roll I’ve had for years, making it fit wasn’t too bad. Used contact adhesive in a few points to keep it in place, but there’s a fold over the trans inspection cover. Doesn’t bother me.
The accel pedal, kick panels, dip switch and seat mounts hold it pretty good.



Had to ream the holes for the plastic push pins that came with the new firewall insulation kit, but other than that, everything went together smoothly.









I’m a happy clam. Tomorrow I will be scrubbing and prepping wheel rims for paint.



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Looks very tidy and functional Joe. Seat came up a treat as did the firewall trim. Nearly there mate.


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Errol62 wrote:Looks very tidy and functional Joe. Seat came up a treat as did the firewall trim. Nearly there mate.

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Thanks Clay Yep, tidy workhorse screwed together on a budget is the aim.

Australia Post ain’t what it used to be, still waiting on your bits to finalise the cabin.

My blue slip guy should *hopefully* give me rego without a demister, maybe even no seatbelts as the car has never had them fitted... not holding my breath on that one though.


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You’re doing a real nice tidy up, Joe. The interior’s looking sweet.
Cheers,
John


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Yeah mate I’m waiting on a delivery too, and they seem to be dragging the chain. I would expect 2 x3 days turn round. It was posted as a letter.


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You are doing a bloody nice job Joe , goes to show you dont need to spend a big quid to screw together a neat car

59wagon wrote:You’re doing a real nice tidy up, Joe. The interior’s looking sweet.
Cheers,
John

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Thanks John! It has worked out well. When the original architecture looks as good as these models, it’s pretty hard to go wrong though


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Blacky wrote:You are doing a bloody nice job Joe , goes to show you dont need to spend a big quid to screw together a neat car

Thanks mate!


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Wheel day today.



I have a bunch of standard, riveted 13x4.5” steelies to choose from, as well as two that are 8” wide. They were on the back when I first found Leroy, but they fouled the guards majorly. With lowering now, there’s no hope of them fitting.

Unfortunately, I only have two, maybe three serviceable rims. A few are heavily rusted near the valve holes, like this one which is now paper thin:



This one is pitted but there’s a bit of meat at the hole still - with a bit of attention, I reckon the valve would seal ok:



I have a couple more up in the roof that have Chev Impala brake drums pressed into them... used under axle stands for extra height. Can’t get the drums out for love or money now and from memory I think I chose this two rims as they were buckled.

So I’m now on the hunt for one or maybe two good original 13” steelies.


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