EK Wagon project - Total rebuild

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Wed May 14, 2008 8:19 am

Thanks Ratbox. Seeing that I already have the flexible lines out, I'll give them a good check and flush. They looked OK from the outside, but didn't check the inside.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Wed May 14, 2008 9:30 pm

Well the flexible fuel lines appear to be good.
Got the other guard off today, much easier when you know what needs to get undone. And a bit of RP7 helped. Used the rag, didn't drop any bolts, but it was nice to be safe

And got the bonnet out of the way so I could get in and clean it up to see what was what. Found some rust on the other side also, slightly different location to the drivers side. I'm hoping I can fix them both without have to remove the front assembly and drop the motor.

With the front end out of the way got underneath and cleaned off all the mud and crap (lots of it). Should go a lot faster now, probably 5 kg lighter.

The fuel line was bent where it attached to the fuel pump, so I'm surprised it could go at all. Not much fuel would have been getting through.

Got a call to say the front wheel cylinders are ready, and a new fuel line has been made. Will pick them up tomorrow. Can also start of the front guards and get them primed and ready.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Fri May 16, 2008 8:40 am

Well the brakes are all back on, new cylinders, new pads, replaced the rubber inserts in the backing plate for adjustments. Lost a Pin (made a new one) Broke a Spring clip (bought a new one) Just didn't have anyone to help with the bleeding. Will get that done today and check for any leaks in the front end connections.

Did notice that when doing the passenger side, that the bolt was missing off the steering arm. Back on in the photo. Another fairly important item I thought...........

Well with the new fuel line back decided to remove the fuel pump and replace the gasket, seemed to be leaking something underneath, Oil or fuel, seemed to be a mixture.

Took a long..... time to get the new fuel line to bite when connecting onto the fuel pump. Couldn't get it to line up and get enough pressure onto it.
All done now, car doesn't run much better, however seems to make a new noise. You can't put the fuel pump rocker arm in the wrong place, can you ? Seemed to be pushing against the spring when re-installing it, but it was being pushed out when I removed it. Pumps working fine.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun May 18, 2008 9:01 pm

Well, I still don't have the brakes working. I am amazed at how much some people seem to get done in a short amount of time, yet after 3 weeks I haven't make much progress. Still not going and stopping.
On Friday, I tried to bleed the brakes, fluid leaking from one of the new bleeder valves. (The other side may also be leaking at the joint, not sure yet. Tried a few things, still leaking.
Rang the mob up and they said the bottom of the clyinder must be too bad to seal. Said bring it back, they will grind the bleeder valve down and use a ball bearing at the bottom. Pull it all out again. Drove up, they would have to keep it and do the next day, no ball bearings. I said tell me what I need and I'll do. Drove to 4 different places, no success getting ball bearings. Went home and sifted through old bits and peices and found the perfect fit. Put it in, still leaking........... Will try drilling out the bottom to see if I can get a solid base.
All up a whole day wasted, and still no working brakes. New front cylinders to go with the back ones? Damn.....

oldnek · Post by **oldnek** » Sun May 18, 2008 9:41 pm

Just a thought Finny, I know it sounds like a dumb

. But have you fitted the cylinder the right way up.
Reason I mentioned it is, I have come across wheel cylinders with same threads as the union + bleeder screw, with the only difference is the mating taper. A lot of cheaper brands they are commonly supplied now will just screw the bleeder screw in the wrong hole, and box it that way.....So when you get you will think it automatically goes to the top......

I have seen many a mechanic damage union threads by stripping and even fit rear cylinders on Dattos the wrong way up, thinking the bleeder goes to the top but in fact they go down.

Now in saying this I haven't seen a standard cylinder on a EK for a Long time, so possibly they can't be fitted the wrong way. Thats why it's just a thought.

John

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun May 18, 2008 11:18 pm

Thanks oldnek. All ideas are good ones. No they can only go in the one way. The two holes are different sizes and on the front wheels its left and right, not top and bottom. Left cylinder can only go on the left side. The one towards the front is for the bleeder and the back one goes to the flexible hose. Plus the attaching bolts can only go in one way up to fit into the backing plate. These were the original cylinders, re-sleeved. They were pretty bad to start with, and the old bleeder valves were badly coroded, and may have eaten into the cylinder hole. Thanks again for the thought.

Thommo · Post by **Thommo** » Sun May 18, 2008 11:28 pm

I wouldn't take chances with the brakes.
If i'm going to fix up an old car,
I'd like to make sure it stopped.
New componants all round!

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Mon May 19, 2008 6:10 pm

Safety is important, but thought I'd try to see how stable I could get it. Well I got the bleeder valve fixed. Drilled out the hole, ground down the valve and added the ball bearing. No leakage. Also swapped the flexible hoses because I could see they were hitting on the wheels and were bent to specificaly go on a particluar side. HOWEVER still getting leakage from were they attached to the cylinders. Don't know if it's the cylinders or the hoses, I think it's the hoses. So, it's new cylinders and flexible hoses for both sides. But wait.

In the meantime, starting checking the engine. Compression on No.1 was 140, No.2 was 120, No.3 was 115, No.4 was 110, and No 5 and 6 was 0. Yes that's NIL. Plugs on 3 and 4 were fouled pretty bad, and 5 and 6 were oily. Cleaned the plugs anyhow, and she runs a lot better, revs OK and sounds better. But pull the leads off 5 and 6 and it makes no difference.

Now the big question. Fix the motor and the brakes, or put in a disc brake front end and upgrade the motor to a 186, 202 or later, and the engineering reports and all the rest.

Post by **Blacky** » Mon May 19, 2008 6:32 pm

If it were mine I would pull the head and see what is going on in there before deciding what to do with the motor - if its a top end rebuild then you are on the road pretty soon without spending too much on it.
If its something major then its decision time.

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Mon May 19, 2008 8:35 pm

re: yor leaking brakes there should be a copper washer where the hose screws into the cylinder
re: the engine what blacky said, but you have to consider what you want, do you want a grey motor or a red, from what MALCOM has said it's not to hard or expensive to engineer up there

thropzed · Post by **thropzed** » Tue May 20, 2008 7:28 am

Hey Finny, We're having our maintenance day on the 25th at bray park! have a look for it in whats on in QLD come along and we can see what can be done.
Cheers Theo Z..............

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Tue May 20, 2008 9:26 am

Thanks Theo, The car is not going so I can get there but not the car. Sorry, the "whats on in Qld" says the Bray Park meeting was last W/E 18th May. I'll do a bit more research and thinling on what I would like to do, but would be happy to go to a maintenance day, but can't bring the car.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Tue May 20, 2008 10:04 am

Ratbox, re the copper washer, doesn't have them. Will need to pull them off again. Is it a special one?

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Tue May 20, 2008 10:12 am

Re the engine, would prefer to keep the grey at this stage, have already done the water pump and fuel pump and easier to get registered and back on the road, and don't need to change all the brakes again. Will get the head out and see what it looks like. Can get it done locally and unleaded upgrade at the same time for about $300. Hoping the bottom end is OK, as looking at $2,000 to do the whole motor. Haven't even got to the gearbox and rest of it yet. Wish I had done the compression checks before I started the other items.

Anyhow in the meantime, I can get started on the body.

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Tue May 20, 2008 12:36 pm

don't think it's special as long as it fits
also remember you don't want to go spend money on the head if that's not the problem and yor not sticking with the grey