fbekholden.com

Hi ya'll,
I am ready to weld in my parcel shelf have cut out the old ratty one and the new one is cut and prepped, but decided to wait for my new tank as I am replacing the boot floor as well, so decided on waiting so I had more room to weld etc.
I picked it up today.




What a peice of work this is, an exact replica of the FB/EK fuel tank in stainless steel.
Made to fit in the space the old tank occupied.
I was lucky enough to message andrew clatworthy from streetneat, who now resides in NZ bro, and he put me in touch with Marty Dean who with andrew made the first lot.
It has taken I while to get, about 4months, as this is a sideline business for marty, but well worth the wait.
When I started this little adventure I only wanted to stop the tank from leaking as it had pinholes in the top, when I tried patching it still leaked, when I started to wire brush the holes just kept gettin bigger.
So decided I needed a new tank and the rest as the previous pages will attest to is history.
Any way if you like the look of the tank dont bother wasting your time with a liner or other crap half arsed measure, this wont rust and looks a treat PM me and I can pass on all the details it cost me $750.00 and fits perfectly.

how cool is that, mate that looks sweet and no more rust

Ok.
Spent the day today cutting out the boot flooor and F$%*&G around with the PArcel shelf



Parcel shelf fits good.
Didnt fit yet so I could stuff around with the boot floor.

Because I am putting in a new tank I figured may as well put in a boot floor as well, it was rusted and where the spare wheel goes is gone.
removed old tank


Then cut me some steel!



Cleaned it all up and POR 15 the crap out of it.



Floor steel cut and waiting to be welded in.

I have decided to raise the floor up in the boot so welding the new floor in about 2 inches above the previous floor to allow for some clearance for the new tank.
As I will mount the spare in the center of the boot I wasnt concerned with the spare tyre well.
Now my problem is do I tub the wheel arches? or not.
The current setup is a nine inch &*#@ diff that when you get a few fat mates in the back the thing scrubs out on the inner guard.




Any input or examples of how this can be done would help.
Tommorrow, weld in floor for boot then fit new tank, weld in parcel shelf or Tub wheel arches What to do Next?
Just previewed the post and realised where my air blower was good shit!

your doing a great job looking at what you started with keep up the good work ,btw those tanks look sensational

If they are only rubbing that much then you could do a "mini tub" like Malcolm did on his yellow FB - cut the bottom of the inner tub away from the chassis rail , remove that strip of metal in there and weld the tub directly to the rail , gives you another 10mm or so , should solve your problem.

I had the same rubbing so I pumped out the wheel well with a jack, only in the rite spots.

Great work,

I did this,

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 2&start=75

Gives you about 10-15mm more room.

Regards Greg

There you go , it was Greg , not Malcolm that did that mod

OK pulled finger out and got on with the project.
My motor has been acid dipped, re bored and is ready for a dry fit next week.
So engine builder said I hope you will be ready soon?
Well no I am not.
Worked this morning had the shits and decided to take it out on the FB.
Grinding and welding is my new stress relief, any way enough bullshit.
1. Fitted new boot floor
I didnt take any photos that day but its in.


2. Fitted new tank to new floor

3. Patched Passenger wheel Arch that was see thru!
4. Welded in support steel for parcel shelf and fitted parcel shelf




5. Spot Welded Boot hinges in
6. Attached Boot and this is what you get.

I could not work out why I was getting so much splatter from the mig, she is normally leaving a perfect snail trail over the weld with no splatter
Stopped had a beer and checked the Mig.
I had it set up for gas but was using gasless wire obviously without gas.
The Power of a good beer to clear the mind.

Blacky wrote:If they are only rubbing that much then you could do a "mini tub" like Malcolm did on his yellow FB - cut the bottom of the inner tub away from the chassis rail , remove that strip of metal in there and weld the tub directly to the rail , gives you another 10mm or so , should solve your problem.

thats exactly what i did

ready to to turn the old girl around and start on the driver side sills and floor pans.
I am pumped at the moment as its all starting to come together just a few more cuts and welds and ready to fill and paint then the fun begins.

Baker,


What a great friday afternoon read..

you're making short work of a big job. nice work.

got to love POR15 too.

Cheers

Ed

This weekend been pretty busy.
Filling holes with the MIG, I have just found out that to stop blow outs when welding up holes etc, place a peice of brass behind the weld and it absorbs the heat therefore reducing blow outs, Thanks to my mate eddie ugly as a hat full of arsholes but can weld.
Was tossing up to repair the rear quarters that I thought werent to bad with fibreglass start poking around "yeah not to bad' then WTF is this.

Check out the massive peice of silicon?
So I decided to cut out the lot.

Quick trip to rare spares, $180.00 later

Old 1/4 next to new 1/4
Any way heres some more pics had to work at 6 for a couple of hours no time to take the photos with the new 1/4 welded in.
will post more tommorrow

Marty's tanks look freakin awesome!

baker12 wrote:
Quick trip to rare spares, $180.00 later

Old 1/4 next to new 1/4
Any way heres some more pics had to work at 6 for a couple of hours no time to take the photos with the new 1/4 welded in.
will post more tommorrow

There looks like a lot of repair work on that new 1/4 panel around where the bar wraps around, thats pretty bad for a part costs so much