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a bit of a dilemma, the missus has gone across to WA for a couple of weeks to visit our daughter ... do I do more work on the ute or do I drink more beer?

colour change

Both at once!

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I've still got the boxes with the old lenses in them - I'll have a look but sparky seamed confident they were a straight swap

Harv wrote: Sat Jan 09, 2021 4:46 pm

FJWALLY wrote: Sat Jan 09, 2021 8:31 am I changed mine over to the Rare Spares H4 conversions - they are heaps better - there was no mention of needing a relay so hope that is all ok - haven't been used in anger yet.

You’ll know you’ve got too many candles if the thermo switch (part of the headlight switch) kicks in and makes the lights flicker. The wattage required to do this varies with temperature, but is between 22 and 30 amps (rough). To pull 22 amps (11 amp per bulb) will need roughly (12.5V x 11A =) 138W globes. A set of 130/100W bulbs might do it.

Cheers,
Harv

Working on the car while drinking beer is one option - of course the only other sensible option would be to drink beer while working on the car .....

mmm, not too good at doing both at the same time but had a go at dovetailing them

took angle grinder to scrap pile getting it into manageable bits
beer
took scrap to recycling drop off
beer
removed headlight switch
beer
bypassed mangled instrument light dimmer
beer
revisited some bodywork

looked at clock - it's beer o'clock

...must be why youre selling it..

read another obscure comment
beer

The fuel gauge seems to be doing the right thing, so far

I put 20 litres in

I lost a bit - braided hoses aren't much good if the rubber underneath is perished

so I put some fuel injection hose on the old fittings. I previously added an earth to the body so I can do without the braided hose
Patrick

When I got the ute, I put in plugs, leads, air filter and I set the points, timing and mixture to see what I thought ... the obvious things were - the water pump was noisy, heater hoses and radiator hoses were crap, the fan was cracked, fanbelt was crumbling, the carb throttle shaft was leaking and the tappets were noisy. So while I was doing the body work, I also took care of a few of those things...but I hadn't run the engine again.

Now that I've put petrol in the tank - and having rebuilt the carby, I just needed to adjust the tappets and re-do the mixture and idle speed - so I got the engine up to operating temperature and turned a couple of screws...all sounds good enough for now


It was relatively clean under the rocker cover and all of the tappets were just a few thou loose


Also put a coat of paint on the rocker cover while it was off but that just shows up the dents

Patrick

Good work Patrick
Hopefully some attention to those maintenance issues will see the old grey run for a few more trouble free years. Does the motor burn much oil?

Regards
Stephen

Hi Stephen, I've only had it idling in the driveway (with an occasional increase in revs) so I'm not sure about oil consumption...no visible smoke as yet (maybe it's got a nice carbon seal). It hasn't got brakes yet so can't even give it a run down the driveway (unless I want to keep going). Eventually I'll do a compression test etc. Patrick

The EK hasn't had brakes since I got it - solid pedal ... and the handbrake just pulls the cables tight but no effect at the wheels.

It's been six months since I got all this stuff so I put in a couple of hours this morning at the driver's side rear wheel to see what's going on
I grabbed some spare adjusters while I soaked the old wheel cylinder to get those adjusters off

When I took the wheel cylinder off no fluid came out of the brake line - pushed on the pedal - solid - the rear flex hose was completely blocked (and I assume I'll find the same with the front hoses - giving me a solid pedal but no brakes).

Put on a new hose and pumped through a heap of brake fluid, then put the new wheel cylinder on

Similarly, the handbrake doesn't work because the handbrake cable is seized to the conduit on both sides (good that it had been parked with the handbrake off)- I've got it soaking but decided to get a new one anyway
Patrick

A word of caution on those rubber blanking plugs. I fitted some to the FB, and all looked good. At some stage though they caught on the adjuster cap, and canted it. The cap canted the shoe, and all hell broke loose. Squealing, and worn lining. I had a good discussion with Burt Bros about it, and they reckon the aftermarket plugs are deeper than the originals. I can't be sure - I've never seen an original. Worth a good check though once they are in.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Tue Jan 19, 2021 3:07 pm A word of caution on those rubber blanking plugs. I fitted some to the FB, and all looked good. At some stage though they caught on the adjuster cap, and canted it. The cap canted the shoe, and all hell broke loose. Squealing, and worn lining. I had a good discussion with Burt Bros about it, and they reckon the aftermarket plugs are deeper than the originals. I can't be sure - I've never seen an original. Worth a good check though once they are in.

Cheers,
Harv

Who would have thought a Rares part didnt fit quite right ....... should have seen the floorpan I welded into my young blokes LandCruiser the other day - not within a bulls roar ...

Harv wrote: Tue Jan 19, 2021 3:07 pm A word of caution on those rubber blanking plugs. I fitted some to the FB, and all looked good. At some stage though they caught on the adjuster cap, and canted it. The cap canted the shoe, and all hell broke loose. Squealing, and worn lining. I had a good discussion with Burt Bros about it, and they reckon the aftermarket plugs are deeper than the originals. I can't be sure - I've never seen an original. Worth a good check though once they are in.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv.
I put the drivers side rear together now, so when I move onto the next wheel, I'll measure the gap with the drum off and see if I need to trim a bit off

Patrick