fbekholden.com

Thanks fellas. I can assure you there is plenty of heat generated already. The circuit is pretty much an exact parallel to the radiator. Top pipe takes coolant from just up stream of the thermostat. Bottom pipe dumps the cooled liquid just upstream of the pump impeller. The old grey style setup took coolant from the back of the head while this takes it from the front so more heat if anything.

I’ve not had to use any sealant previously on my manifold gaskets but everyone I talk to says they do as a matter of course. That will be the next step as there is still some leakage apparent.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Brett027 wrote: Mon Sep 04, 2023 7:35 pm I'm a bit puzzled with the heater pipes. They usually have one hose coming off the water pump inlet to create the flow. Is there a decent flow in and out of the thermostat housing?

that's how i always do it, it also has some cooling benefits if other end is mounted in the rear of head as it pulls in heated water from the back of the head and mixes it in with the cooled water from the radiator, a guy used to sell a kit to do this for cooling

Sure. That is the standard way, or instead of the head you go from a tapped hole in the lower thermostat housing. In this case the outlet at the back of the head caused fouling with my linkage. I put the idiot light sender in there. So you have two fat rubber hoses coming from the front of the engine, over the tappet cover. Could have done that and just plugged the two outlets for factory manifold heating. And had nowhere for the temperature gauge sender. Could have……


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Eventually got the fussy pommy carbs to stop being sooks. First run with the triple jugs certainly didn't dissapoint! Significantly increased pickup over the X2 induction. I had to substitute the original clip on the reproduction HZ throttle cable I put on, after it jumped off the linkage several times. All that effort was worth it. Seems to have woken up the cam quite a bit. Chokes next and finish tidying up under the dash.

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Cheers,
Harv

Looking good Clay

nice work Clay

Good stuff Clay,

The SU’s are great as long as they pull the same fuel. You will also be surprised at their economy.
The only issue of course is how much tension is on the throttle cable, if you know what I mean !!!
Greg

Greg, I do. Thanks Neil, Patrick.

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Clay,

I'm impressed with the results. What was the magic ingredient for getting the SUs to behave?

Rob

Thanks Rob. Just getting the baseline right really. I think the rear throttle was cocked open somehow. Maybe on the fast idle cam. The back one is a bit fraught due to access.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I also hadn’t read step 3 in the good book. Enrich the jets two full turns down from flush with the bridges for base idle setting. So I had all carbs super lean,and one at high idle.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Just connected the choke up to the rear jug at this stage and started fine this morning, though it wasn't really cold overnight. We did have the fire going. It just reaches comfortably, but once again, being the rear carb, it was a bit of a drama.
Went for a flog and all seems well though having not yet put the new firewall insulation in there is a level of cacophony emanating from the suckers and slappers up front.

Below is the heater hose setup under dash with the red tap up for off.
Another shot with the isolator bottom left.
I will remove the parcel tray now and install the repro insulation around the modifications. Maybe some insulation sheets under there as well, and seal the heater pipe inlet better.

There is a tick sounding like valve lash and it's about due for an oil change. Oh and a wash before the weekend cruise. It never ends does it?

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Errol62 wrote: Mon Sep 11, 2023 1:51 pmthere is a level of cacophony emanating from the suckers and slappers up front.

One of the few things I miss about Weber carbs is the wonderful sound they make when you mash the loud pedal.

Cheers,
Harv

Well, that tick appears to have developed into a failed lifter. I can't get the thing out. It may have mushroomed, as all the others are now coming out nicely. I will pull the cam and see if I can catch the lifter it in a length of pipe through the tunnel. If not, it will end up in the back of the sump, I suppose. When I put the engine together, I remember the offending rearmost lifter was refusing to rotate in its bore.

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