fbekholden.com

Ahh I know know what you mean about the oil gallery plugs, yes I got all of them out very easily actually.

The best I could do there is blast it out wit the Karcher as it won’t hold liquid if I wanted to do a soak.

On another topic I keep being told the J conrods are stronger than the earlier models, but I have compared J to B and can not see any difference.

Photo below, J on left B on right

AFAIK, the rods are the same. There were rod changes early on, when the little-ends went from forced to splash lube (later rods are not gun drilled from the big end bearing up through the H-beam to the little end). No change for EJ that I am aware of.

Could be that old Holden furphy - the later rods have 10 years less work or corrosion on them

Cheers,
Harv

The conrod nut was revised for the EJ. It is smaller across the flats and taller than the earlier conrod nuts, and the stamped locknut was deleted.

Rob

Cheers Harv, yes well it had me stumped as I could not see any difference so it all good!

Rob that is interesting about the con rod nuts, I had different examples of the nuts A/F being 1/2 & 9/16.

The 9/16 nut is thinner than the 1/2, I actually chose to use the 9/16 as I thought more contact on the face would be better but now you actually mention it I might just switch back to the 1/2 taller nuts.

Got the crank in the lathe this morning.

3/8 UNF drill and tap in the snout and a polish of the snout diameter for a less aggressive fit to the Ross balancer.

Snout is a full .001” bigger than the balancer hole

I’ll polish it down a hair to about .0007

Spent the week playing with the bottom end the get the full flow oil pipes set up.

Happy with the result.

Good clearance everywhere, just need to braze the pipes into the fittings… oxy acetelyne would be handy right now!

Hi Drew
Your welcome to borrow my oxy set.
Stephen

Just curious Drew,

Did you by any chance measure the conrods, bearing surface to pin ?

I always wonder if the rods are correct and equal length. I know you said there was height difference top of piston to block head surface.

I had a couple of rods that were closed and honed and were a couple of though different.

Engine builders ????? They do 2 out of six because they need to be done, just do the lot !!!!!

Realistically on a street engine probably not a issue.

Greg

In the Shed wrote: Sat Sep 25, 2021 2:49 pm Hi Drew
Your welcome to borrow my oxy set.
Stephen

Bloddy hell!
I’ll take you up on that offer, I’m thinking in my small brain if it would be easier to bring the engine bottom end to yours, or to bring the oxy set to mine?

Descions!

Greg yes I did measure the conrods, but only with a digital vernier caliper,

Yes they vary by +/- .002”.

The tod lengths matched the tolerances in the FB workshop manual.

On the machines again making something I don’t want to pay for…

Any guesses?

If that crank is only sitting there to dummy up the oil system, it could be a rear-main seating tool.

If you ever want dimensions (or to borrow a service tool) give me a yell. I've got a pretty fair stash.

Cheers,
Harv

Cheers Harv, yes mate I’ll give you a shout if I need those tools but no cigar for you my friend…
Not a rear main seal seating tool!

Loving this build


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