Gents,
I hate to kill off any dreams but in NSW the maximum engine size is 329.
So 327 is the biggest you can go legally.
My race car has a chev 283 and produces 312 rwhp, not exactly huge but it has enough power to still scare you.
The 283 is a small journal crank and is steel from factory, it is hard to get good bearings for it but not impossible. The engine suffers from crank flex and needs new bearings every 10-20 race meets but will rev to 7000rpm no worries. I don't rev it past that because of the crank flex.
You can build a 327 from a 350 block and a 307 crank they are both large journal and you can get the block in 2 or 4 bolt mains. The 327 did have a steel crank but was small journal and both the blocks and crank are hard to find. If you are extremely lucky you could use the 3 inch stroke in the 4 inch bore and that makes a 302, again the 302 crank is very hard to find. Only came out in 1969 for the under 5 litre racing in the states and only for 1 year.
The 305 is an oddball it has a 350 stroke with a smaller bore than the 283, plenty of torque but not really a rev master. These engines had heads that suit unleaded fuel.
The good thing about the chev engine is that it responds very well to performance parts and is fairly cheap to build bar the 305, it has special head gaskets and the pistons are not easy to come by.
From memory
350cu inch is 4 inch bore 3.5 stroke (Large journal)
327cu inch is 4 inch bore 3.25 stroke (Small and large journal)
307cu inch is 3.875 bore 3.25 stroke (Large jounal)
305cu inch is 3.736 bore 3.5 stroke (Large jounal)
302cu inch is 4 inch bore 3 inch stroke (Large journal)
283cu inch is 3.875 bore 3 inch stroke (Small journal)
Hope this helps
Regards Greg
EK morphs into pillarless Coupe .
Gees Greg, you should change your user name to "Mr Chev", you are a wealth of knowledge, well posted!EK283 wrote:Gents,
I hate to kill off any dreams but in NSW the maximum engine size is 329.
So 327 is the biggest you can go legally.
My race car has a chev 283 and produces 312 rwhp, not exactly huge but it has enough power to still scare you.
The 283 is a small journal crank and is steel from factory, it is hard to get good bearings for it but not impossible. The engine suffers from crank flex and needs new bearings every 10-20 race meets but will rev to 7000rpm no worries. I don't rev it past that because of the crank flex.
You can build a 327 from a 350 block and a 307 crank they are both large journal and you can get the block in 2 or 4 bolt mains. The 327 did have a steel crank but was small journal and both the blocks and crank are hard to find. If you are extremely lucky you could use the 3 inch stroke in the 4 inch bore and that makes a 302, again the 302 crank is very hard to find. Only came out in 1969 for the under 5 litre racing in the states and only for 1 year.
The 305 is an oddball it has a 350 stroke with a smaller bore than the 283, plenty of torque but not really a rev master. These engines had heads that suit unleaded fuel.
The good thing about the chev engine is that it responds very well to performance parts and is fairly cheap to build bar the 305, it has special head gaskets and the pistons are not easy to come by.
From memory
350cu inch is 4 inch bore 3.5 stroke (Large journal)
327cu inch is 4 inch bore 3.25 stroke (Small and large journal)
307cu inch is 3.85 bore 3.25 stroke (Large jounal)
305cu inch is 3.65 bore 3.5 stroke (Large jounal)
302cu inch is 4 inch bore 3 inch stroke (Large journal)
283cu inch is 3.85 bore 3 inch stroke (Small journal)
Hope this helps
Regards Greg
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mrs ratbox
what ever you can legaly put in 
little engine not always cheap engine my SS impala had a dead stock 283 even chassed fuel economy cam carb etc and it DRANK fuel, was worse on fuel than another impala i had that had hot big block and low diff gears 
which is the better condition engine or are they all rebuilders?
283's can be hard to get parts for but this may have changed as greg would have mentioned it
little engine not always cheap engine my SS impala had a dead stock 283 even chassed fuel economy cam carb etc and it DRANK fuel, was worse on fuel than another impala i had that had hot big block and low diff gears which is the better condition engine or are they all rebuilders?
283's can be hard to get parts for but this may have changed as greg would have mentioned it
EK283 wrote:Gents,
I hate to kill off any dreams but in NSW the maximum engine size is 329.
So 327 is the biggest you can go legally.
My race car has a chev 283 and produces 312 rwhp, not exactly huge but it has enough power to still scare you.
The 283 is a small journal crank and is steel from factory, it is hard to get good bearings for it but not impossible. The engine suffers from crank flex and needs new bearings every 10-20 race meets but will rev to 7000rpm no worries. I don't rev it past that because of the crank flex.
You can build a 327 from a 350 block and a 307 crank they are both large journal and you can get the block in 2 or 4 bolt mains. The 327 did have a steel crank but was small journal and both the blocks and crank are hard to find. If you are extremely lucky you could use the 3 inch stroke in the 4 inch bore and that makes a 302, again the 302 crank is very hard to find. Only came out in 1969 for the under 5 litre racing in the states and only for 1 year.
The 305 is an oddball it has a 350 stroke with a smaller bore than the 283, plenty of torque but not really a rev master. These engines had heads that suit unleaded fuel.
The good thing about the chev engine is that it responds very well to performance parts and is fairly cheap to build bar the 305, it has special head gaskets and the pistons are not easy to come by.
From memory
350cu inch is 4 inch bore 3.5 stroke (Large journal)
327cu inch is 4 inch bore 3.25 stroke (Small and large journal)
307cu inch is 3.85 bore 3.25 stroke (Large jounal)
305cu inch is 3.65 bore 3.5 stroke (Large jounal)
302cu inch is 4 inch bore 3 inch stroke (Large journal)
283cu inch is 3.85 bore 3 inch stroke (Small journal)
Hope this helps
Regards Greg
nyoorr everyone knows that
Ha!Awesome knowledge and information that Ive always wanted to know but have been to lazy to research , Thank you Greg
While Ive got ya Ill tell you a little more about the engines because you may be able to clear up some loose ends.
The 283 and 400 Ill be taking stock off at wagga swap so I cant tell you much more than Ive been told .
I was told that he bought a 63 Impala coupe from the states under the impression that it had a 350 in it ....He drove it around for 9 months and had no reason to think otherwise, When he pulled the engine out to upgrade cubes he checked the numbers and it its a 283 ,He said "Its a pisser of an engine"
The 305 is dissasembled "apparently was running fine"
trading post special , Its got double hump heads although one is a 161 and the other a 162 (not sure of the differences here}The turbo 400 that came with it was cracked around one of the housing bolts so may well of been in a prang at some stage or just dropped .
The 350 is a nascar spec built for Terry Byers , Its all port matched, 4 bolt main caps , oversize valves ,victor jnr intake and 750 Holley.
The 400 is a runner 60 thou over but stock . Is 60 though a grenade motor ? unable to be bored out any more .
and the power to weight calculator I am aware of
Mephious Im kinda on the same page 400 if driven lightly should give reasonable fuel economy , or the 283 would also be a good legal choice
I have enough engines for all the cars and realy should consider what engine is best suited where , In that case Id probably run the 400 elsewhere
sigh decisions desicions .....
Easily distracted angle manipulator extrordinaire.
Harko,
The obvious choice would be the 283 both cause its running and because of the legal issues. Sure you could fudge the figures but have a prang and the insurance companies will check! You will be left high and dry.
The 305 is a special breed released in 1976 they were invented for fuel economy and torque ( air con power steer etc ).
Again we have legal issues here such as pollution gear, the RTA states motors of whatever vintage must comply with the year of manufacture in regards to pollution laws. However 305, or 307 could be confused at rego time
The heads that you talk about would actually be 461, 462 these are large valve heads and would be better suited on larger capacity engines such as the 350 or 400. Check the heads on the 283 if they have little triangles on the front they are "power pack" heads if they have rectangles they are ordinary 283 heads. The power pack heads are great on the 283 up to 327.
60 thou is the limit for all small block chevs any more and you are taking a risk of bore splitting etc.
I could go on and on but I hope this helps enough.
Regards Greg
The obvious choice would be the 283 both cause its running and because of the legal issues. Sure you could fudge the figures but have a prang and the insurance companies will check! You will be left high and dry.
The 305 is a special breed released in 1976 they were invented for fuel economy and torque ( air con power steer etc ).
Again we have legal issues here such as pollution gear, the RTA states motors of whatever vintage must comply with the year of manufacture in regards to pollution laws. However 305, or 307 could be confused at rego time
The heads that you talk about would actually be 461, 462 these are large valve heads and would be better suited on larger capacity engines such as the 350 or 400. Check the heads on the 283 if they have little triangles on the front they are "power pack" heads if they have rectangles they are ordinary 283 heads. The power pack heads are great on the 283 up to 327.
60 thou is the limit for all small block chevs any more and you are taking a risk of bore splitting etc.
I could go on and on but I hope this helps enough.
Regards Greg
Last edited by EK283 on Sat Jun 27, 2009 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
So many cars so little time!
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mrs ratbox
toyota crown chevy luv don't do it harko
as to polution gear for the 305 australian authorities don't recognise the 305 so the polution stuff don't matter
i have 2 mates with injected 5L's in EHs one from a VN and one from a VR with no polution gear and none asked for by engineer or rego people only thing requested was an air box on one the other has a pod
as to polution gear for the 305 australian authorities don't recognise the 305 so the polution stuff don't matter
i have 2 mates with injected 5L's in EHs one from a VN and one from a VR with no polution gear and none asked for by engineer or rego people only thing requested was an air box on one the other has a pod
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Smooth customs
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2006 3:51 pm
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So you have done this sort of modification before? but wont mention the types of chassis.FATBOY wrote:With a full chassis you can go big block.Just slip a chassis form another manufacturer under it make sure the wheel base is close .Im not going to say what chassis goes under but ????
regards fatboy
Mick did, and I can add some more to his list. As I have done this conversion before. And they dont "Just slip under"
Or did you just read about it somewhere.
Harko has already been down that road as well, with the FC Nomad he was building previously.
I am looking forward to some updated photos.
Im still wondering why you would do it?
Even with a chassis from another vehicle it still wont pass rego according to the RTA website. It still has to have a power to weight ratio calculation and unless the the car is registered as a rebodied chassis I cant see how it would pass.
If it is possible I think it would be huge work for little gain.
A well built 327 will scare the pants off anything that comes along side it.
Anyway good luck Harko and whatever way you decide to go keep us updated.
Regards Greg
Even with a chassis from another vehicle it still wont pass rego according to the RTA website. It still has to have a power to weight ratio calculation and unless the the car is registered as a rebodied chassis I cant see how it would pass.
If it is possible I think it would be huge work for little gain.
A well built 327 will scare the pants off anything that comes along side it.
Anyway good luck Harko and whatever way you decide to go keep us updated.
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
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mrs ratbox
yor correct as to all the work involved just to say put a big block in when you can make a scarey quick 283,307,327 i even had a 305 in a WB that was no slouch even a 308 can be very impressive with little work
as to the chassis, what ever chassis you fit is what the car then becomes so if you put say an '84 hilux chassis in the car looks like an EK but is registered as an '84 hilux therefore it goes off the weight of the '84 hilux, if it weighs 1100kg you can go up to 366ci, 1400kg=466ci
but i don't think harko is doing this as he just put new floors etc in and that would have been a total waste of time and money if he's puting a chassis under it
as to the chassis, what ever chassis you fit is what the car then becomes so if you put say an '84 hilux chassis in the car looks like an EK but is registered as an '84 hilux therefore it goes off the weight of the '84 hilux, if it weighs 1100kg you can go up to 366ci, 1400kg=466ci
but i don't think harko is doing this as he just put new floors etc in and that would have been a total waste of time and money if he's puting a chassis under it
It is a huge amount of work, to throw a different chassis under a monocoque body. The space needed for the chassis itself, doesn't allow for much room for anything else, especially if you want it nice and low.
The floor and boot has to be significantly raised in order for clearance.
So to carry out all that work for the sake of a larger capacity engine, to me doesn't warrant the work involved, especially nowadays with all the varied type of engines you can now have the choice of and fit.
Regards John
The floor and boot has to be significantly raised in order for clearance.
So to carry out all that work for the sake of a larger capacity engine, to me doesn't warrant the work involved, especially nowadays with all the varied type of engines you can now have the choice of and fit.
Regards John
There's nothing as Sweet as a EK V8
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Smooth customs
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If you want a GM based car with a chassis that will take a Big Block, buy a Chevy Pontiac Buick Olds or Caddy.
I like big motored cars. And have owned a couple over the years. But at the end of the day there are only a few places you can let it loose without being picked up by the cops or registration inspectors.
And lets not forget the growing fuel rego and insurance costs.
An early Holden with a V8 is a great thing, but as John and others have commented . There is a good selection of motors out there that can be fitted, are approved and will do almost everything you want.
I like big motored cars. And have owned a couple over the years. But at the end of the day there are only a few places you can let it loose without being picked up by the cops or registration inspectors.
And lets not forget the growing fuel rego and insurance costs.
An early Holden with a V8 is a great thing, but as John and others have commented . There is a good selection of motors out there that can be fitted, are approved and will do almost everything you want.
Well Ive got that big block chassis under the chopped ute and I definitely dont see it as a huge amount of work , It actually went under in a day less welding and I dont see it as a big deal compared to setting up a stock EK for a V8 and then putting up with the inherant flaws in steering , suspension travel if you want it to look right , steering lock that doesent allow Uturns etc
The cost to do it also is phenomenal when compared to sourcing a donor chassied car , I guess I see it differently to most and I am going to enjoy every launch of the big block torque across the intersection and up to 60
This one I had an array of parts that came through different avenues and I am using them up..
EK 283 , If your wondering why you would do it , Its a good way of loosing a rusty underbody completely and providing the donor has a clean floor theres no reason why it cant go under , the tunnel will need mods though.
So back to the engine dillema , I think the 283 will be the winner and Im hoping that when I pick it up theres some triangles on those heads
Heres more outside the square thinking ,
When I did the front headlight peak mods I actually tilted the the whole top of the guard and squared it up a little so that not only the flow from top to bottom is less rolled but it brought the headlight outwards and has taken the guard almost inline with the door looking down the length of the car, Have a look along the top of the guard of an EK FB and you will see that at the centre pillar it is the widest part of the car and both doors are offline to each other , then the quarter and guard angle in again .
So when I moved the pillar I pushed it inwards to square the doors to what is to become the quarters then the guard is close to that .
And now the quarters noticably run inwards to the rear of the car and dont have the square line of the other panels ,
So now Im considering taking the quarters outward so it not only pushes the tail lights apart but will stop the rear of the wheel arch rubbing on wide tyres , and will stop the slight crabbing look that you see when you follow one , whadda you think of them apples
Ive finished my dash , just smoothed it out by removing the ash tray and heater bracket , then taking the flat section off the glove box and welding it to the dash so the line along the top of the curve is unobstructed now
and I dont see it as a big deal compared to setting up a stock EK for a V8 and then putting up with the inherant flaws in steering , suspension travel if you want it to look right , steering lock that doesent allow Uturns etcThe cost to do it also is phenomenal when compared to sourcing a donor chassied car , I guess I see it differently to most and I am going to enjoy every launch of the big block torque across the intersection and up to 60
This one I had an array of parts that came through different avenues and I am using them up..
EK 283 , If your wondering why you would do it , Its a good way of loosing a rusty underbody completely and providing the donor has a clean floor theres no reason why it cant go under , the tunnel will need mods though.
So back to the engine dillema , I think the 283 will be the winner and Im hoping that when I pick it up theres some triangles on those heads
Heres more outside the square thinking ,
When I did the front headlight peak mods I actually tilted the the whole top of the guard and squared it up a little so that not only the flow from top to bottom is less rolled but it brought the headlight outwards and has taken the guard almost inline with the door looking down the length of the car, Have a look along the top of the guard of an EK FB and you will see that at the centre pillar it is the widest part of the car and both doors are offline to each other , then the quarter and guard angle in again .
So when I moved the pillar I pushed it inwards to square the doors to what is to become the quarters then the guard is close to that .
And now the quarters noticably run inwards to the rear of the car and dont have the square line of the other panels ,
So now Im considering taking the quarters outward so it not only pushes the tail lights apart but will stop the rear of the wheel arch rubbing on wide tyres , and will stop the slight crabbing look that you see when you follow one , whadda you think of them apples
Ive finished my dash , just smoothed it out by removing the ash tray and heater bracket , then taking the flat section off the glove box and welding it to the dash so the line along the top of the curve is unobstructed now
Easily distracted angle manipulator extrordinaire.