fbekholden.com

Yep. People say it's a simple job.

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Nearly finished welding on the tubs. A lot of work to gain a few of mil.
A day off today to let my eyes recover from welding flash that I got holding and tacking in the strips.
You got to love welding with your head stuck up in the wheel arch.
The orange dead weight hammer was not used. It was a deterrent for the ute to behave. Now a day of grinding and a day of fill and sand.
.
Clay lent me his air saw to get into the corners and I was so impressed that I purchase this.
No more hand cutting with broken hacksaw blades. Cheers,
Roger

Nice work Roger. Millimetres can be critical.

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An update on the wheel tubs.
Last fill and sand today, I hope. Did I tell you how much I dislike body work.
Overhead welding and grinding sucks. Recommend anyone doing this mod to have a rotisserie or roll the car on its roof.
.
Next I need tyres on the rims then set these up to determine the diff width.
Cut, weld and grind sounds much better fun.
Cheers,
Roger

I don't know, you made it look easy mate. Mine still got pin holes need filling.

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Here is my tip to fill pin holes after grinding the welds.
This stuff hardens like concrete so use carefully. I then use the angle grinder with a 80 grit disc to flatten.
I get mind from the big green shed.

Handy tip there Rog thanks, I hate chasing pin holes

Metal fix with fibreglass Matt works a treat


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Hey Roger,
Absolutely no experience (yet) but I have read that bog absorbs moisture and that fibreglass filler is the way to go over welds. I guess as long you hit it with some paint straight away it should be fine. Downside of fibreglass filler is it's harder to work when cured. Also just reading that there is a difference between builders and auto bog.

EDIT - and now that I can see the picture of what was used ignore everything I wrote above!

Hey Scott, The metal bog that I'm using set off so hard you need to use a grinder to flatten. My research say's It’s waterproof – as in it works for boats
Builder bog I'm lead to believe is a filler that builders use to filler timber holes, is sanderable and water proof but I'm not sure if it is "suitable " for car builds.
The normal filler we all use for panel perfection is soft and if used thick can absorb moisture. Any filler I using is a very thin coat to smooth off the panel. I got the tyres mounted 235/50 x 17 and fitted these up into the tubs. Measured - calculated and then had my mate check before I marked where the cut was to be done.
Cut the diff housing yesterday whilst up the farm yesterday fixing the genset.
Cleaned and measured the tube this morning to find I need to have the diff bearing housings machined down to suit.
Not a big deal but better than being too small.
One step closer.
Cheers,Roger

Sorry for the confusion Roger - the link in your post reads Builders Bog.jpg but there was no image or clickable link on my browser, just the name. I wrongly assumed builders bog.

My bad.
I need to tag my photos so I can store and then find them and attach to the post.
Update on the diff shortening.
I had quote of $250 - $300 per axle to re-spline and that is after I had the axles annealed.
Then I would need to have the axles re-hardened. I will speak another company to see what they charge.
I'm now asking myself " why did I not restore the ute ".
Cheers,
Roger

You would not have been happy Roger....

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I'm now asking myself " why did I not restore the ute ".
Cheers,
Roger
[/quote]

Because it’s not your Ute Roger

Any mug can restore one