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There is the passenger side


Scott

So think l’ll just attack this with a BFH. Might need some adjustment to the firewall too. Not a fun single person job fitting the sub frame but my rotisserie stands came in handy.


Scott

Scott my frames aligned much like yours and it did my head in trying to get it right.

I looked back on the hundred of photos I took pulling it apart and it’s exactly the same as it was from the factory.

So I have left the frames as is and I’ll work hard for panel alight when the time comes.

So the fun was short lived.

To drill the holes for the wings to bolt to the firewall I have to fully fit the sub frame. Which means getting all 4 bolts in the legs of the sub frame, and the two tapered bolts that screw the mid point of the verticals to the firewall. All these points did not change in the resto, though a lot around the verticals did. No amount of hammering/grinding /bending or swearing would get the necessary clearance to get the inner drivers side bolt in. Just could not work out a way to get the whole frame to move in 5mm further.

So after 4 attempts and several hours doing my best Catherine Zeta Jones Entrapment impressions, took the sub frame off the stands, and tried to get the bolts in with the subframe lower at the front, then tilt it up into position.

Found a few more gotchas in this lowered state (remove/bend/grind/refit), but with a ratchet strap, hammer, and long punch, finally got it lined up. And because I was so pleased with myself, I took a phot with the bolt in. Well almost The bolt is sitting low and for now that is the best I can do.

My solution for locating and fitting the outer bolts was pretty simple But can't do that with the inner.

And as I stared at it for long enough, was the hole in the centre of the mount used during manufacture? Can't think of another reason, except to let water and dirt in.

Hi Scott. Those holes and gaps are part of the Holden Planned Redundancy Program (HPRP). They are strategically placed so as to collect dust and water to make a rust generating poultice that gives the cars a 10year lifespan. Fuel companies had a share in the HPRP as well, with 30 kg of fine dust adding to vehicle weight and increasing fuel consumption.
I have been amazed at how many containers of dirt have been held in chassis rails, k frame arms and supports, crossmembers and sills of my current project. Rails were full from one end to the other. In Wilma everything was sealed and I will do the same in Project2.

On the other matter, I reckon if your k frame bolted straight on with no difficulty at all it would indicate a problem: something must be out of alignment!!!

So true!!


Scott

Subframe alignment seems to operate on the ouija principle ......

Scoot I’m hearing you about the sub fame mate!
Total PITA.

I think if you get the bolts in at all then you have to just take a breath and call it done.

Trying to get it better it this stage is bloody mission

FbSTDwagon wrote:Scoot I’m hearing you about the sub fame mate!
Total PITA.

I think if you get the bolts in at all then you have to just take a breath and call it done.

Trying to get it better it this stage is bloody mission

Glad I’m not alone!
Was hoping to get the process down so when I do the drivers side sills it would be a breeze. At least I’m prepared for the fight!
Also remember down when I took it off, the inner driver side bolt had to be hammered out, so has always been an issue.
Amazing too the difference you can make to the height alignment based on the four bolts in the wings. I thought with the center one nipped up the that wound that. But each of those 4 bolts has pushed and pulled the subframe into position.
Test fit of the front rotisserie- still have to shift the car 60mm across and 500 forwards.


Scott

A few shots of the sub frame (temporarily) reattached.
Did as panoramas to get as much in as possible. So there are some jaggy bits where the iPhone got confused
One looking down

And a 3/4 which really pissed the iPhone off. Looks like a saw tooth.


Scott

Good bones Scott.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Been a while. Small update.
Got my bonnet bar and first impressions - meh

Was not a great picture so I asked the seller what the condition of the chrome was like. "A bit of pitting" was the replay. As mine is a holey mess I figured I'd take a chance knowing I would have to get it rechromed.

So expectation was not high and it has not failed to disappoint. First - unboxing. Loose rust was sliding around inside the box like sand. Looks like it has spent a fair bit of its life upside down in the weather.
Bolts in three nuts and the fourth sheard off and replaced with self tapper. Self tapper in the bin and a bit of drilling and brute force later.
Time to do a bit of cleaning.
Phase one - wire brush
Does ok but never getting in to the nooks with this method.
So on to phase two. Sandblasting. Had to get my craft hat on to make it fit in my new supercheap cabinet.
Does a lot better but really hard to see what you are doing and the cabinet is tiny, so I now how a Trex must have felt. Those glove are close together! Note: shirt as light hood - can't even see in without it, its like a mirror.

Did a test on the front as well for sh!ts and giggles. Hasn't really done much more than brush the chrome. Media might need a change to something more aggressive.
A bit on the top plus a close up of the pitting in the chrome.
And finally Phase Three. Citric Acid (Wonder if Clay has been thinking "why didn't he just do this at the start?)
Ratio used was 500grams to 8 litres of water. From lots of reading that seemed to be a good strong mix. After a few hours gave it a scrub with a toothbrush, then left it in overnight. Blast with the gurney in the morning and here is the result.
Got into most of the nooks, but still ended up getting the last few spots off with the sand blaster. These were only found when I gave it a scrub with deoxide.

And the front still looks a bit sh!t.

Next job - fix the captive nut. Thought about folding a sheet metal bracket round a nut but I didn't have a square nut and it all seem too hard. Instead I got an offcut of mild steel 5mm bar from the rotissery build (still a work in progress), and cut it down to fit between the ribs of the brace.
Then drilled a 7mm hole in the brace and plug welded it in . Also filled in the self tapper hole.
Lastly, gave everything a spray with Easyphos, to protect it for now. Bought a fancy re fillable can online and put the EasyPhos in.
You charge it by filling 1/3 full then remove spray and put this tyre valve gizmo on top. Says not to go over 100 psi, so, safty first, I did 75.
Worked a treat the first time but runs out of puff pretty quick. So same process to recharge.
Only problem, this time the valve jams open, easyphos back flows into my tyre inflator. Flexible tyre inflator hose is NOT compatible with EasyPhos and lets go with and almighty bang, sending easyphos everywhere.

Not to be defeated, spare hose from old inflator installed, and can charged holding upside down so liquid is less likely to escape. Success. Must find the tyre valve remover......

Well it looks good enough to get rechromed anyway. What about an old windex bottle for the easyphos Scott? I would have it in citric for a few days then should get most of it. End of a file or small cold chisel chip off tough bits.

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