fbekholden.com

Back on the ground at last.
The bonnet hinges have apparently seized up a bit at some time and has been forced open, resulting in the frame bending either side. A straight one for comparison I will see if I can restore it.


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Changed the starter over with the Bosch gear reduction unit from my spare blue six. This one has done around six years daily driving in the old sedan.

Running smooth now. 550rpm with 8 degrees advance. No apparent flat spot off idle although the accelerator pump atomisation looks a bit sus. Bit of noise apparent now it’s warmed up. Mainly gudgeon noise I think.

Since I installed the indicator wiring in the column the gear shift is very tight. That will be the next thing to investigate.


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Thought I’d change the oil. Couldn’t find my old filter spanner so the old screwdriver fit the job. With the filter off I decided to take off the leads and coil and clean up the side of the 186. Replaced the filter, new hei coil and electronic distributor and 8mm leads.

Filled with oil and started up very rattly. Added more oil but still rattling and blue smoke in abundance. The tappet cover was full of oil. Eventually it drained to the sump and rattles and smoke subsided. Sump is over full now. Just some left over oil my neighbor didn’t want which I will dump and replace with decent 20w50. Fair bit of blow by and stagger off idle now.


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You’re getting a lot done Clay, good job.
Will this be treated as modified in SA due to the 186, therefore needing extra things done? I think I’ve seen seatbelts in one of your earlier pic’s.
Cheers,
John


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John,
The car was last registered in Victoria around 1990, pre-digital records. I believe the 186 conversion was performed some time earlier and passed by Victoria Police. This being the case and reflected in the Victoria rego data, SA registration will be accepted with the current motor, requiring the car to be driven to inspection to confirm the engine number only. If this doesn’t come through then I will fit grey motor rather than change the brakes and wipers, fit a de-mister etc. if it is successful I may swap a fitter 186 or 173 blue.

I will definitely be installing seat belts, but I’m still trying to work out what exactly. The new ones you can buy are a bit generic. With the parcel tray behind the seat I don’t see why I couldn’t fit 3 x lap - sash retractable belts so I can safely take a couple of mates surfing.

Cheers
Clay


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Engine bay getting there. Need a temp light switch in the thermostat housing, secure battery.


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Raff on rubbing duty


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Bled the clutch and drove 2 metres back and forth in the car port. I better get the cab floor done now. All over the shop as usual.


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Cleaned the floor up pretty well going back and forth with various Eire wheels on the 18v. Chucked in a temporary seat. Probably my best spring wise. Steering wheel and it can be driven. Road worthy is another story.


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This came in the mail todayThanks Neil

I will put it to one side until I do a proper job on the tailgate. Although it isn’t rusty skin will probably need to come off to straighten the frame.


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Got the ute “ready” for an initial test drive up and down the driveway, well the flat part anyway. Centred the steering wheel lock to lock with front wheels off the ground.

Started up and engaged 1st gear. Right hand down to turn up the drive. Got about two feet and the wheel went slack. Pitman arm ball popped right out of the drag link socket. Glad it happened when it did!!!

I’m now on the lookout for a HR drag link, pitman and idler arm and tie rods. I’ve never been a fan of the original set up. Back on stands she goes. I’ll see if it can be made serviceable in the mean time.


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Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 4:05 pm Raff on rubbing duty


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Looks like you gotta good kid there, Clay, just going by his taste in music (or is that your t-shirt he's wearing for the messy rubbing job?)

His big sister gets some credit for being a big Curt and Pixies fan John, even though she was born in 2000. He is a very helpful lad.


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Clay,

Survival tips for the early-style steering linkages -

Take the whole assembly out, including tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm, and work on it on the bench. Doing an "in-car" rebuild is a fool's errand.

If you have a spare drag-link assembly, rat the passenger's side for the hemispherical sockets, the T-shaped plugs and the springs. Rares sell a rebuild kit, but I'm not happy about the standard of finish of the parts.

The hole where the pitman arm engages gets enlarged with time - the sides of the slot right next to the hole tend to pull out and lead to the pitman arm dropping out. (My father had this happen in his FJ going down the Comboyne Plateau road near Taree. He described it as an underpants moment.) Get a couple of the hemispherical sockets and put them in the drag link where the pitman arm goes in. Tap the sides of the slotted part down until the sockets don't rattle around, but still slide in and out. Repeat for the holes where the tie rods and idler arm go in - but they won't need as much work. The ute, having been a paddock-basher, will have been quite hard on the steering linkages.

Clean all the dirt and congealed grease out and re-assemble with clean parts. You'll be surprised at how easily everything goes together. Work the tie rods, pitman and idler arms around a bit, taking the slack out; but don't leave the adjusting plugs done up tight. Back the idler arm side off a quarter to three-quarters of a turn; back the pitman arm side off about a full turn.

Go nuts with the grease gun once assembled.

The early steering linkages are OK as long as the parts aren't too badly worn, and they're correctly adjusted.

Rob