fbekholden.com

Thanks EKSPCL, Billy, Trev and Nomad!!

Here are the console dimensions for you Billy . Remember that I have the A/C ducting panel between the console and the dash, you need to add 100mm to the overall height measurement (instead of 330mm make it 430mm, keep all other measurements the same) if you are just having the console. Hope it helps mate . Also my tunnel is "Auto" you may have to profile the bottom of yours to suit your tunnel shape. If I have missed anything let me know and I will get it for you.

Wow, looking good.

And even time to measure and mark up photo's!!!

Thanks a lot you have done far to much for me already Billy

Bare metal respray ...... thats a good idea Get the guards etc done over the weekend and then primed and preped for the colour. Have some work to finish on the shell, should be right for paint in 2 weeks. Hopefully have the car all painted in 4 - 6 weeks and then start the real fun bit of putting it all back together again and see what evolves.

Update ....... no pics

Bolt on panels are sand blastered (window frames and internals only to avoid distortion of the main skins which were done by hand) and primed. Car is back on its side getting the finishing touches underneath before it's appointment with the spray booth. I have fitted an LX Torana frontend (yep, I changed my mind...again ), had brakes made to reduce track by 32mm (Hopper Stoppers) and ordered the motor (at last!). Motor setup has changed since original plan and will be all under the bonnet ("semi" sleeper!).

Upholstery has started.....been whippin' Sue (gotta be careful that she doesn't enjoy it too much.... the whippin' that is!! ) We bought a Singer Industrial sewing machine off EvilBay for $500, very happy with it.

Geeeesss..... is it February ALREADY!!!!!! March....April....May ... Nationals ......

man you work quick

i laughed at "keep it a semi sleeper"

then thought.... not with those boots on the arse end

lookin good. Fingers crossed for the Nationals...

Thanks for the feedback .

Finally got the 4 link recesses made and fitted, ended up making the recesses wider so I can adjust the "all important" top-front rod end position for street or strip without having to remove the back seat and and inspection cover (previous idea - quickly trashed!). Also cut some 32mm ally tube, polished it and slid it over the chrome moly 4 link tubes.....gives it a better look I think .

Applied some deadner to the under body (I still have some things to do but it is very humid at the mo' and I wanted to protect the work I have done so far), now I can stand back with a Jack's & coke and see that I have got somewhere .

Torana frontend is in, still have to make the additional subframe chassis section that will now incorporate the mounting points for the rear of the torana "K" frame. The 350 can now sit very low in the engine bay which is a bonus for what I have planned .


A pick of the torana K frame (stock):



Notched and plated for EK mounts and plates tacked on:













The EK mounts are tacked on .... NOTE: the forward part of the EK mount still requires a brace (as per it's fitment on the EK), I will post a pick of this brace later:



Torana frontend in place (Pre-fit), this is not the guard going on the car : It is of the "flash kit" donor car. As can be seen by the "porta power" on the floor I pumped the guard about 10mm (the reason for using the "old guard") which has given amble clearance even at the low ride height. I do however have another trick up my sleeve that will make it even better




4 Link recesses that I made up out of 1.6mm black steel sheet:



4 Link recesses in place for test fit prior to welding:



Bit of deadner splashed around and polished (not finish polished) ally tubes over 4 link bars:

dude you sir are awesome!

wanna come do mine?

cheers
NoMAD

now going back to na motor blown or nothing

regards fat

FATBOY wrote:now going back to na motor blown or nothing

regards fat

See ya at the Nostalgia drags

hate to pik yor brains, but in the pick with the wheel on where do you have the suspension set on the bump stops or down so it would have travel and what stub axle and disc rotor is on it

so pissed too already have one front and could have bought another in bits on the weekend cheap and didn't really think about it till i left the swap

once again wish i could weld had a go today and tonite my eyes feel like shit is it easier to weld if you have a shield started with a small hole and end up with a big one but then put a small piece of metal and all was good

Hey,
Ratbox its just practice and you could use your cool sunnies

Have a question for both of you guys.
Do the cars the front end come off have power steering???
Room for adjusting things on the car smart man.
Gary keep it up its looking sharp

Regards Greg

ratbox wrote:hate to pik yor brains, but in the pick with the wheel on where do you have the suspension set on the bump stops or down so it would have travel and what stub axle and disc rotor is on it

Mick, as per height in pic there is 45mm left until the bump stop will contact. Stub - LX torrie, Disc - P76 supplied and modified by Hopper Stoppers with HQ caliper and adapter.

EK283 wrote:Hey,
Ratbox its just practice and you could use your cool sunnies

Have a question for both of you guys.
Do the cars the front end come off have power steering???
Room for adjusting things on the car smart man.
Gary keep it up its looking sharp

Regards Greg

Greg, it is a manual rack on the frontend, TE cortina Power steering rack "almost" fits straight in, very minor work required.

To adjust the wheel alignment it is necessary to open the inner guard, will post a pic of this later when finished.