You have way to much patients. I don't know how you do it
I'm sure you will overcome all the dramas and the skin will grow back on your fingers eventually.
Don't let it beat you
Mal
PPC - POR system
PPC - Por coating
Rosco,
You have way to much patients. I don't know how you do it
I'm sure you will overcome all the dramas and the skin will grow back on your fingers eventually.
Don't let it beat you
Mal
You have way to much patients. I don't know how you do it
I'm sure you will overcome all the dramas and the skin will grow back on your fingers eventually.
Don't let it beat you
Mal
Malcolm W.
OK as promised, there's enough skin to do some more today.......
Upol Bar Coat isolator - about one third of it was "stuck" to the bottom of the can - manufacture date was October '07 so it hadn't been sitting too long - must be stirred up thoroughly - watched it start to settle after 30 minutes in a glass jar.......
Goes on great - no spider web - does not need thinning and is one pass only.
Unlike 1K etch - this is a solid coat.
It has to be left for around 1 hour before applying primer/surfacer.
I am very, very happy to state that this primer surfacer (with hot thinners) did not get through!
One word of warning - don't panic when you can't clean up with solvent - it cleans out with methylated spirit - and very well..............
I coated everything intended for acrylic gloss which I had sprayed Tie Coat onto as below...............
After the required hour, two medium coats of primer/surfacer were doubled over, twenty minutes later I hit it with another two - and checked..... not blisters - guess I've got nearly a litre of isolator for something - it doesn't come in a smaller package - hope it keeps.......
This (again) and you must be as tired as I am of looking at this in primer grey....... is where it's at - again......until guide coat - blocking back and finally - top coats......
Whilst in there - I removed the rear seats and fastened the panels down - being ply - I can break in if I lock the keys in the boot - don't laugh, it's been done so many times- I'm sure the general had this in mind when he fitted panels instead of steel.........
All the interior of my bus has been treated, fishoiled, primed and many, many, many coats of hammered metal epoxy - I have had a "play" with those steel rings used to hold the upholstery in place on the seats - you won't believe wher most of your squeaking, clunking and crunching noises come from - I replaced ALL those rings in both the backrest and base with cable ties - seats back in and absolutely silent - the only noise is where the cushion rubs the vinyl on the arch covers............
I fitted "Moonwalk" matting to the underside of both - those springs are now insulated from any metal - the tape you can see in the pic below is just to hold the matt in place until the small spots of adhesive dry.
I have also fitted this "Moonwalk" under the arch covers - this will make it considerably more comfortable for those in the rear when three rear seat passengers have to be "good friends" for a lengthy trip.......
I have used this on the entire floor area and find it absolutely great - not only as insulation, but it also "grips" the shiny surface of the epoxy and prevents the carpet "creeping" when it it subjected to people's movements in the vehicle.
oh yes - the pic....
today is another block back - and a few little chores - hopefully, we'll see some colour (black is not a "colour") mid week and then I can close the lid..........'til next review.....
frats,
Rosco
Upol Bar Coat isolator - about one third of it was "stuck" to the bottom of the can - manufacture date was October '07 so it hadn't been sitting too long - must be stirred up thoroughly - watched it start to settle after 30 minutes in a glass jar.......
Goes on great - no spider web - does not need thinning and is one pass only.
Unlike 1K etch - this is a solid coat.
It has to be left for around 1 hour before applying primer/surfacer.
I am very, very happy to state that this primer surfacer (with hot thinners) did not get through!
One word of warning - don't panic when you can't clean up with solvent - it cleans out with methylated spirit - and very well..............
I coated everything intended for acrylic gloss which I had sprayed Tie Coat onto as below...............
After the required hour, two medium coats of primer/surfacer were doubled over, twenty minutes later I hit it with another two - and checked..... not blisters - guess I've got nearly a litre of isolator for something - it doesn't come in a smaller package - hope it keeps.......
This (again) and you must be as tired as I am of looking at this in primer grey....... is where it's at - again......until guide coat - blocking back and finally - top coats......
Whilst in there - I removed the rear seats and fastened the panels down - being ply - I can break in if I lock the keys in the boot - don't laugh, it's been done so many times- I'm sure the general had this in mind when he fitted panels instead of steel.........
All the interior of my bus has been treated, fishoiled, primed and many, many, many coats of hammered metal epoxy - I have had a "play" with those steel rings used to hold the upholstery in place on the seats - you won't believe wher most of your squeaking, clunking and crunching noises come from - I replaced ALL those rings in both the backrest and base with cable ties - seats back in and absolutely silent - the only noise is where the cushion rubs the vinyl on the arch covers............
I fitted "Moonwalk" matting to the underside of both - those springs are now insulated from any metal - the tape you can see in the pic below is just to hold the matt in place until the small spots of adhesive dry.
I have also fitted this "Moonwalk" under the arch covers - this will make it considerably more comfortable for those in the rear when three rear seat passengers have to be "good friends" for a lengthy trip.......
I have used this on the entire floor area and find it absolutely great - not only as insulation, but it also "grips" the shiny surface of the epoxy and prevents the carpet "creeping" when it it subjected to people's movements in the vehicle.
oh yes - the pic....
today is another block back - and a few little chores - hopefully, we'll see some colour (black is not a "colour") mid week and then I can close the lid..........'til next review.....
frats,
Rosco
No pix today, but a bit of an update.......
Finally had a go at the BlackCote - it's the top coat for POR 15 - is UV stable but does NOT offer the same metal/rust chemical bond which POR 15 does.
Apart from that - it seems to be identical - DON'T get it on YOU!!!! - nearly got the "raccoon" back - just in the nick of time - saw my fingerprints on the frames of my glasses!
I have learned a little more of working with POR - if you remember my first post on spraying it - you will recall I considered this paint to spray like Vegemite, but found the toy gun was partly to blame - you will also remember I thinned it to 10% with POR thinners and it ran like water......
I sprayed BlackCote today - un-thinned at 35 psi and the gun starved for feed - the cup filter just couldn't pass enough paint to supply the fan.......
I wound it up to 55 psi and persevered to get it all covered.
There's a "dark" (forgive the pun) side to this paint - if you run low pressure - you will only get semi-gloss................ it's strange stuff, I must admit.
End of the day (pix tomorrow - too tired tonight) good result on end panel, not so good on luggage compartment floor.
Yesterday I decided to "brush" some POR 15 on the bare sanded steel around the outer boot-lid seal channel and on the lower inch of the r/hs sill under the doors - Marine Clean, Metal Ready then POR 15 - went on much better this time (re-enforces, you must follow these instructions strictly). I left it four hours before applying the second coat and a further seven hours for the third - result was excellent.
I tried the next suggested option and sprayed a "dust" coat of primer/surfacer over the POR 15 just as it "dried" to the touch - it has keyed into the POR 15 and in four days will be fully primed and top coated in acrylic - I needed to test this - as this will probably be my new method for acrylic over bare steel - honestly, I am overawed by the way this stuff bonds and goes absolutely "rock hard".
I have a "test piece" of which I have demonstrated a number of times to people by hitting it as hard as I can with whatever comes to hand - no scratch, no chip ....... just a deep dent where I have struck the metal - the paint has not cracked as the metal has dented........
Why have we not heard of this product before..........
I'd like to see some metal flap disked on which this system was applied and exposed to the elements for quite a few years - to see just how well this magic bond has held up....... they use it on boats and apparently is fine...... I'm chuffed.
Pix tomorrow....... hope it hasn't "fallen" off overnight - was looking pretty good when I pulled the door down and had to rush off for the rest of the afternoon/evening........... not game to look since coming home - got Malcolm's "smile" on my face tonight (as opposed to those "raccoon eyes") ......... see what tomorrow brings............... hope to start blocking back the primer/surfacer on the remainder in the compartment will be sprayed in acrylic.
frats,
Rosco
Finally had a go at the BlackCote - it's the top coat for POR 15 - is UV stable but does NOT offer the same metal/rust chemical bond which POR 15 does.
Apart from that - it seems to be identical - DON'T get it on YOU!!!! - nearly got the "raccoon" back - just in the nick of time - saw my fingerprints on the frames of my glasses!
I have learned a little more of working with POR - if you remember my first post on spraying it - you will recall I considered this paint to spray like Vegemite, but found the toy gun was partly to blame - you will also remember I thinned it to 10% with POR thinners and it ran like water......
I sprayed BlackCote today - un-thinned at 35 psi and the gun starved for feed - the cup filter just couldn't pass enough paint to supply the fan.......
I wound it up to 55 psi and persevered to get it all covered.
There's a "dark" (forgive the pun) side to this paint - if you run low pressure - you will only get semi-gloss................ it's strange stuff, I must admit.
End of the day (pix tomorrow - too tired tonight) good result on end panel, not so good on luggage compartment floor.
Yesterday I decided to "brush" some POR 15 on the bare sanded steel around the outer boot-lid seal channel and on the lower inch of the r/hs sill under the doors - Marine Clean, Metal Ready then POR 15 - went on much better this time (re-enforces, you must follow these instructions strictly). I left it four hours before applying the second coat and a further seven hours for the third - result was excellent.
I tried the next suggested option and sprayed a "dust" coat of primer/surfacer over the POR 15 just as it "dried" to the touch - it has keyed into the POR 15 and in four days will be fully primed and top coated in acrylic - I needed to test this - as this will probably be my new method for acrylic over bare steel - honestly, I am overawed by the way this stuff bonds and goes absolutely "rock hard".
I have a "test piece" of which I have demonstrated a number of times to people by hitting it as hard as I can with whatever comes to hand - no scratch, no chip ....... just a deep dent where I have struck the metal - the paint has not cracked as the metal has dented........
Why have we not heard of this product before..........
I'd like to see some metal flap disked on which this system was applied and exposed to the elements for quite a few years - to see just how well this magic bond has held up....... they use it on boats and apparently is fine...... I'm chuffed.
Pix tomorrow....... hope it hasn't "fallen" off overnight - was looking pretty good when I pulled the door down and had to rush off for the rest of the afternoon/evening........... not game to look since coming home - got Malcolm's "smile" on my face tonight (as opposed to those "raccoon eyes") ......... see what tomorrow brings............... hope to start blocking back the primer/surfacer on the remainder in the compartment will be sprayed in acrylic.
frats,
Rosco
PPC - Por coating
Hey Rosco,
Hope it all looks good in the morning. What are you going to do with under the boot lid around the hinges.
Mal
Hope it all looks good in the morning. What are you going to do with under the boot lid around the hinges.
Mal
Malcolm W.
Sorry Malcolm,
had a late night in the garage - shower, tea and a few hours so far checking mail on the site - just got back to my own post for the next installment.
Hinges - they were badly scraped/scratched - result of scraping off the fringes of where that body deadener got plastered........ why I went up that far is beyond my recollection........
Plan is to freshen up the turquoise on them whilst doing the seal channel sides.
Ok as promised - pix..............
Pretty happy with the end panel interior and supports - not so sure about the tank filler pipe - floor has a very good coating but not a lot of gloss - it's going to be "hidden" under "Moonwalk" matting and a replacement luggage compartment mat - see if I've got any "BlackCote" left after the next session to finish it off.
Will go in again tomorrow with guide coat and start blocking back the primer/surfacer ready for acrylic black on the partitions/arches,deck and supports.
Still have to key up about a third of the underside of the entire vehicle floor which is still in its recently applied (less than two months ago - didn't see the other side of our driveway) hammered metal epoxy then Tie coat - and two BlackCotes............. then there's the rest of the car to get ready - Malcolm, you're in a lot better shape than I at present...
Bought some LED strip lights to illuminate the luggage compartment today - 30 intense LED's in a strip which just fits the length of the bodywork under the rear window base forward of the boot-seal channel - the LED strip length is almost exactly half the distance - ie - from the hinge support to the centre - very thin and narrow - will be left in clear tube packaging (10 mm x 10 mm) for protection........ will be connected to existing boot-lid switch................. current draw - 200 mA. - Jaycar - $49.95 - may do both sides and "finish" the refub altogether.
Have also got replacement "bulb" fitted with super bright LED's to fit interior lamp................will post those up in electrical when I get to that project........
Oh, yes.............. pix.
All black is top coated in BlackCote.....
Floor and wells are over Tie Coat -
End panel is over two coats of POR 15..............
more tomorrow......
frats,
Rosco
had a late night in the garage - shower, tea and a few hours so far checking mail on the site - just got back to my own post for the next installment.
Hinges - they were badly scraped/scratched - result of scraping off the fringes of where that body deadener got plastered........ why I went up that far is beyond my recollection........
Plan is to freshen up the turquoise on them whilst doing the seal channel sides.
Ok as promised - pix..............
Pretty happy with the end panel interior and supports - not so sure about the tank filler pipe - floor has a very good coating but not a lot of gloss - it's going to be "hidden" under "Moonwalk" matting and a replacement luggage compartment mat - see if I've got any "BlackCote" left after the next session to finish it off.
Will go in again tomorrow with guide coat and start blocking back the primer/surfacer ready for acrylic black on the partitions/arches,deck and supports.
Still have to key up about a third of the underside of the entire vehicle floor which is still in its recently applied (less than two months ago - didn't see the other side of our driveway) hammered metal epoxy then Tie coat - and two BlackCotes............. then there's the rest of the car to get ready - Malcolm, you're in a lot better shape than I at present...
Bought some LED strip lights to illuminate the luggage compartment today - 30 intense LED's in a strip which just fits the length of the bodywork under the rear window base forward of the boot-seal channel - the LED strip length is almost exactly half the distance - ie - from the hinge support to the centre - very thin and narrow - will be left in clear tube packaging (10 mm x 10 mm) for protection........ will be connected to existing boot-lid switch................. current draw - 200 mA. - Jaycar - $49.95 - may do both sides and "finish" the refub altogether.
Have also got replacement "bulb" fitted with super bright LED's to fit interior lamp................will post those up in electrical when I get to that project........
Oh, yes.............. pix.
All black is top coated in BlackCote.....
Floor and wells are over Tie Coat -
End panel is over two coats of POR 15..............
more tomorrow......
frats,
Rosco
Didn't get the paint on yesterday - had a club car over for a "workday" went home with a "smile" on her face..............9 1/2 hours later.
today - acrylic, with a bit of good fortune.........
Malcolm, yes it will be covered by the mat - I know what's underneath, that's the important bit - others will see the acrylic on the remainder - I'm hoping for a good finish - time is ticking.......
pic tonight.. will be in my "Cams Paint project" post - may change the title - haven't seen him on the forum for quite some time................
frats,
Rosco
today - acrylic, with a bit of good fortune.........
Malcolm, yes it will be covered by the mat - I know what's underneath, that's the important bit - others will see the acrylic on the remainder - I'm hoping for a good finish - time is ticking.......
pic tonight.. will be in my "Cams Paint project" post - may change the title - haven't seen him on the forum for quite some time................
frats,
Rosco
gday rosco
nicely done mate, considering - the product/and the area painted (lets face it - it was never gonna be easy)
but youve pulled it off, and im sure you are wiser because of this
thanks for sharing your experiences with the stuff (por 15)
at the end of the day, the luggage compt floor - is done & dusted (permanently)
well worth the effort
regards ray
nicely done mate, considering - the product/and the area painted (lets face it - it was never gonna be easy)
but youve pulled it off, and im sure you are wiser because of this
thanks for sharing your experiences with the stuff (por 15)
at the end of the day, the luggage compt floor - is done & dusted (permanently)
well worth the effort
regards ray
INVEST IN PRECIOUS METAL
Thanks Ray,
I'm not totally chuffed - it may get another coat yet - I know I can do better.................. it gets the better of me, and I can't leave it alone.......
Those reading this thread - I have moved the acrylic portion of this to what used to be called Cam's paint project - I haven't seen Cam on the forum for some time and have re-named it to "Rosco's paint tips".................
hope everyone approves - and Cam - if you are still in this thread, I can fall-back to the former title if you wish...................
frats,
Rosco
I'm not totally chuffed - it may get another coat yet - I know I can do better.................. it gets the better of me, and I can't leave it alone.......
Those reading this thread - I have moved the acrylic portion of this to what used to be called Cam's paint project - I haven't seen Cam on the forum for some time and have re-named it to "Rosco's paint tips".................
hope everyone approves - and Cam - if you are still in this thread, I can fall-back to the former title if you wish...................
frats,
Rosco
Just an update - no pix yet.
Spent five days painting the sub floor - front and rear cabin only - with POR Black Cote by hand - have to tell you, I think Michaelangelo had an easier task................ two pairs of latex gloves on each hand.............. each coat took 6 - 7 hours for either left or right hand side - it's strange stuff to brush - sort of goes on like water but won't "cover" fully until brushed again - the more you run the brush through it the harder it gets to get a good finish - I have played around with adding POR solvent and found that just a "dash" helps, but at a cost - very thin coat - hence the week to get it covered...........
Coats have to be within 24 hours or it's a keying with 600 grit.........
It was a breeze to spray compared to brush - but if it gets airborne and cures on a surface, it cannot be removed by any solvent - it has to be mechanically removed - this stuff goes absolutely rock hard - I believe you will remove all paint around it before it comes off....................
Throw some pix up when I have brushed enough paint on to take a day off from the process......... five days and still haven't got through the litre of Black Cote yet....... it goes on very thin................
My suggestion, put a wet coat on, leave it for a couple of minutes to settle the run the brush through it once or maximum twice to remove the tiny bubbles (CO2) as they come to the surface - any more than two minutes and the brush will leave furrows and a dull finish as it "rakes" through the sufrace.........I know it sounds a bit strange - thin coat, but very "thick" to brush after it sits for a couple of minutes..........
And - DON'T get it on you - you won't feel it and will dry very quickly in your skin - humidity cured......... 4 ~ 5 days before your skin "rots" it out......... not a good look.............. wouldn't want to be a medico........
more soon, this is where I've been for the past few days in absence from the forum......................big job, great protection......... hope I don't ever have to take this on again.........
frats,
Rosco
Spent five days painting the sub floor - front and rear cabin only - with POR Black Cote by hand - have to tell you, I think Michaelangelo had an easier task................ two pairs of latex gloves on each hand.............. each coat took 6 - 7 hours for either left or right hand side - it's strange stuff to brush - sort of goes on like water but won't "cover" fully until brushed again - the more you run the brush through it the harder it gets to get a good finish - I have played around with adding POR solvent and found that just a "dash" helps, but at a cost - very thin coat - hence the week to get it covered...........
Coats have to be within 24 hours or it's a keying with 600 grit.........
It was a breeze to spray compared to brush - but if it gets airborne and cures on a surface, it cannot be removed by any solvent - it has to be mechanically removed - this stuff goes absolutely rock hard - I believe you will remove all paint around it before it comes off....................
Throw some pix up when I have brushed enough paint on to take a day off from the process......... five days and still haven't got through the litre of Black Cote yet....... it goes on very thin................
My suggestion, put a wet coat on, leave it for a couple of minutes to settle the run the brush through it once or maximum twice to remove the tiny bubbles (CO2) as they come to the surface - any more than two minutes and the brush will leave furrows and a dull finish as it "rakes" through the sufrace.........I know it sounds a bit strange - thin coat, but very "thick" to brush after it sits for a couple of minutes..........
And - DON'T get it on you - you won't feel it and will dry very quickly in your skin - humidity cured......... 4 ~ 5 days before your skin "rots" it out......... not a good look.............. wouldn't want to be a medico........
more soon, this is where I've been for the past few days in absence from the forum......................big job, great protection......... hope I don't ever have to take this on again.........
frats,
Rosco
PPC - Por coating
Hey Rosco, haven't heard from you for a few day, thought you must have been in hospital getting skin grafts on your fingers 
Make sure the floors dry so as you get to Yamba. I'm sure mine will be there, maybe on a trailer though.
Make sure the floors dry so as you get to Yamba. I'm sure mine will be there, maybe on a trailer though.
Malcolm W.
sub floor
Been under the car all week - cabin sub floor is finished - still have the underside of the luggage compartment and rear wheel arches to do - this may not happen until after Yamba........ they have a foot of thick paint on them anyway - but it would have been good to finish the underside POR......
Now working on the tailshaft and a few little fittings -
Word of warning - don't let anything make contact with this paint until it has cured for four (4) days in temperatures over 15 deg - it won't harden fully - I have had to key back a couple of spots I hit with the trouble light and found it left marks..........
Still no pix - maybe mid week - too much to do and so little time to do it - I'll be offline for a while.........
frats,
Rosco
Now working on the tailshaft and a few little fittings -
Word of warning - don't let anything make contact with this paint until it has cured for four (4) days in temperatures over 15 deg - it won't harden fully - I have had to key back a couple of spots I hit with the trouble light and found it left marks..........
Still no pix - maybe mid week - too much to do and so little time to do it - I'll be offline for a while.........
frats,
Rosco
I went out to see my car today and it is pretty much done. When I rocked up Tony, the man working on it wasn't in, and his assistant said that he had gone walkabout. I waited 1 min and he came bouncing in the door, with a couple of liters of POR15 destined for my car. He was worried about the pricing, but I said my man Rosco said this is the shizzle, so go ahead, I will pay for it. So, after reading this post, but by no direct intervention, my car will be getting a dose of POR15. Thanks for yet another great read Rosco 
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it
Hi AustMod,
yes, I have now a very high opinion of this product - mine has now well and truly cured and as stated on the promo's - is as tough as nails, but will "flex" with the metal without any cracking - even to the point of almost turning it back on itself.............
I have noticed however, that if each coat is put on too thick it makes it brittle.
As mentioned, read the blurb and follow it to the very letter........... I had a few "sessions" where I was out in the garage at very odd hours putting the next coat on.............. must be within 3 - 5 hours and not beyond 12.
I got the hang of not getting any on me after quite a few trips back to the bench to "clean up"................ only had one occurrence of "raccoon eyes".
Where are you having the POR applied?........... if it is the POR 15 - it must be on very dry steel - and must be pre=treated with Metal Ready - exactly as the instructions state.
Do NOT clean with prepsol or the like - if the area needs cleaning, it MUST be done with Marine Clean and thoroughly dried - POR will not "stick" to anything damp/moist.
If you get three coats on withing the working "window" - I am now very much of the opinion you will not have to concern yourself with the coated area again, unless damaged by incident/accident/boulder etc.
Let me know your opinion, please - I am over the moon with this stuff.
frats,
Rosco
yes, I have now a very high opinion of this product - mine has now well and truly cured and as stated on the promo's - is as tough as nails, but will "flex" with the metal without any cracking - even to the point of almost turning it back on itself.............
I have noticed however, that if each coat is put on too thick it makes it brittle.
As mentioned, read the blurb and follow it to the very letter........... I had a few "sessions" where I was out in the garage at very odd hours putting the next coat on.............. must be within 3 - 5 hours and not beyond 12.
I got the hang of not getting any on me after quite a few trips back to the bench to "clean up"................ only had one occurrence of "raccoon eyes".
Where are you having the POR applied?........... if it is the POR 15 - it must be on very dry steel - and must be pre=treated with Metal Ready - exactly as the instructions state.
Do NOT clean with prepsol or the like - if the area needs cleaning, it MUST be done with Marine Clean and thoroughly dried - POR will not "stick" to anything damp/moist.
If you get three coats on withing the working "window" - I am now very much of the opinion you will not have to concern yourself with the coated area again, unless damaged by incident/accident/boulder etc.
Let me know your opinion, please - I am over the moon with this stuff.
frats,
Rosco