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It was nothing special, has the usual bits, red motor valves , twin carbs, cam and Speco headers

Was adequate, it does a lot of miles for a Sunday driver with the Nats runs etc so it needs to be reliable which rules out anything over the top

Got the rest of the donor motor bits out today , the block was cactus with loads of corrosion in the water jackets so decided to just pull the cam and lifters out and a couple of fiddly bits and bin the rest , the last lifter put up quite the fight - had to remove the cam, slide a piece of pipe up there, tap lifter down then push up with the pipe about 10 times to get it moving then finally wriggle it out without damaging it



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Then load it in the ute ready to go to it’s new home

Been busy the last few days building a new retaining wall next to the shed - the last big project on this bloody house I hope




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I had similar dramas removing lifters on the half dozen or so blocks I stripped when hunting for a crank for the FED. Thought I'd get cute and buy a collet puller. Works well... except there is not quite enough headroom between the lifter and the deck to get the puller in Can still use it, but at a cock-eyed angle that makes it less effective.

Cheers,
Harv

I have a nice newly reground crank and a set of .010" bearings ready to refit into this thing , but hit a bit of a snag today when I called Clive Cams and they told me its currently an 8 week turnaround for a reground cam and refaced lifters

I also need to source a gasket set and the dreaded rear main seal installation - not sure whether to go with a stock rear main , or the Fergie tractor method of Harv's , or the Mercedes rear main like Drew used in his FB wagon .

Discuss.

I recently installed a Merc rear seal in a fellow club member's FJ motor. Compared with the "gasket kit" replacement, it was easy-peasy. Much, much easier to cut.

But I found I had to use the crankshaft to set the seal. My fault though. I cut the seal off nearly flush when using a seal setting tool, and the ends of the seal receded about half a millimetre when I put the crank in. So you need to allow half a millimetre protrusion if using a setting tool.

Disclaimer: I haven't started the motor yet.

Rob

I’ve got a set of reground-by-Clive lifters I can do on changeover basis for you (mail ‘em to you March 4th, get Clive Cams to mail yours to me once they are done) if it helps.

Could do the same with the cam, but it may be a bit odd for what you are doing… it’s ground using two different profiles for inlet and exhaust to suit 10-15psi of huffer…

Cheers,
Harv

Cheers Harv , Galloway have a reground Crow 846 on the shelf as a service exchange deal , and I have to drop a block off there anyway just need to find out if it will be suitable- I have googled it and haven’t found the specs on it as yet.

Downside will be - Galloway=expensive

Blacky wrote: ↑Wed Feb 21, 2024 7:18 pm I have a nice newly reground crank and a set of .010" bearings ready to refit into this thing , but hit a bit of a snag today when I called Clive Cams and they told me its currently an 8 week turnaround for a reground cam and refaced lifters

I also need to source a gasket set and the dreaded rear main seal installation - not sure whether to go with a stock rear main , or the Fergie tractor method of Harv's , or the Mercedes rear main like Drew used in his FB wagon .

Discuss.

Blacky my Mercedes RMS is dripping a few drops but i don’t think it left enough seal protruding when I cut on the block and bearing cap meeting faces.
I’ve done about 1000 miles now and it’s a drop or 2 a day on the driveway… all I can do is see how it plays out.
I think the Mercedes seal is a good option, it’s tough as nails and I can’t see the rope failing, but yeah extra protrusion for the crush on the joint faces is crucial.

Cheers Drew, I don’t suppose you have a part number for it ???

Mercedes part number A 0019971241

When you get it throw it in an oil bath straight away, leave it weeks or months if you have to, it won’t hurt it.

I soaked 1 for 24 hours and it was still hard like a rock, the next I soaked for about 6 weeks and it was way easier to work with.

Oh yeah and when the RMS leaves more oil on the ground than what drips out of the hockey stick I’ll let you know… until then I’d say it’s absolutely perfect

Thanks mate, will order one Monday and get it straight in the tub