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9.80665N it's about all i remember of Newtonian physics. Increasing the mass of the object has no effect on the speed, ignoring friction.

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Lets say the you are driving the average $140,000 Lingenfelter twin-turbo powered Corvette Z06.

Over a mile up the road, a Top Fuel dragster is staged & ready to launch down a quarter-mile strip as you pass by it. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the ‘Vette hard up through the gears and blast across the starting line & pass the dragster at an honest 200 MPH. Just as you pass the Top Fuel Dragster the ‘tree’ goes green for both of you.

The dragster launches & starts after you. You keep your foot down hard, but you hear an incredibly brutal whine that sears your eardrums & within 3 seconds the dragster catches & passes you. He beats you to the finish line, a quarter-mile away from where you just passed him. Think about it – from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 MPH & not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the road when he passed you within a mere 1320 foot long race!

That’s acceleration!

When the rear wheels reach where the front wheels sit at the start of a pass, the top fuel dragster is already doing in excess of 160 kilometres per hour.

That indeed is acceleration !!!

ardiesse wrote: Mon May 02, 2022 7:51 pm Correction: you'd increase the motor's weight by finding a bigger planet. Its mass would remain unchanged.

I might be wrong, but what I was pondering was gravity being proportional to the two masses. You can increase either mass... either take the grey motor to a bigger planet, or increase the mass (not weight) of the grey motor.

Figure I'd bolt on all the optional stuff, like an air bath cleaner and an oil filter. A big oil filter... in fact an incredibly big oil filter. Get that grey motor mass big enough, and gravity will increase.

'course, that grey motor mass increase would need to be pretty substantive. Think of an oil filter about the size of the moon, or larger. That's why I need the bigger helicopter

Launch force on a top fueller is around 8G. I still don't understand fully how they don't blackout. Then again, if you were conscious for a ride like that you probably wouldn't do it twice.

Cheers,
Harv

You guys are giving me a headache please stop them mummy

Yes me too. What's wrong with them- is it Covid symptom perhaps?

Harv wrote: Tue May 03, 2022 7:42 am

ardiesse wrote: Mon May 02, 2022 7:51 pm Correction: you'd increase the motor's weight by finding a bigger planet. Its mass would remain unchanged.

I might be wrong, but what I was pondering was gravity being proportional to the two masses. You can increase either mass... either take the grey motor to a bigger planet, or increase the mass (not weight) of the grey motor.

Cheers,
Harv

Weight is a force, a derived quantity, not a base quantity like mass. Adding mass will only increase the force, if acceleration is kept constant. The relevant equation from Newtonian mechanics is F = MA. Gravity is responsible for A, the acceleration, which on Earth in a vacuum (no air resistance) is approximately 9.8m/s^2. To increase your ET, you need to increase the acceleration due to gravity, which means you have to take it to a bigger planet, as ardiesse recommends. Yes, you can trade off mass and acceleration to keep weight constant (e.g., an bigger amount of a uniform substance on Mars can be created to have the same weight as a smaller object of the same substance on Earth, given the differences in A (sorry, couldn't help it, I'm an applied statistician/machine learning geek).

My brain just exploded reading this

I think Newton's Law of Universal Gravitation still applies. Increase the mass, and the force (and hence acceleration) increases. I could be wrong though.

With apologies to Brett and Neil... a little closer to the matter:


Cliff Kiss, and his Norman-blown red motor rail. This is the mental picture I am aiming for with this project.

Cheers,
Harv

That will be so cool Harv

Wild…


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

With the chassis rails coming together, I've been working through the transmission story.

The slide-and-glide will mate up to the grey motor, provided I change the flexplate. Mr Hancock's Traumatic flexplates will also work for the Powerglide. Now that Roger has them back in stock, I'll get one sent to me.

The FED will run a midplate - essentially a flat, vertical steel plate that runs between the motor and transmission and locates the rear of the motor/trans assembly like an engine mount. The midplate pushes the transmission back a bit. To make up for that distance, I will need to either put spacers under the torque convertor bolts, or get a custom torque convertor that has thicker mounting pads. Will likely end up with a Dominator convertor, so will discuss spacers vs. pads with them when I order it.

The IHRA/ANDRA rules for a FED will make me do some things too. I'll need to have reverse lockout (part of the shifter, and prevents the transmission being thrown into "R for racing" by accident), and a neutral start safety switch (to stop the FED being started in anything other than Park or Neutral).

The rules also do some stuff to minimise the damage if the transmission grenades. I've only seen one transmission let go (in a moderate power Dodge sedan at Eastern Creek), but it was spectacular. Metal went THROUGH the transmission casing, through the floorpan, and punched upwards through the top of the dash. The risk of the grey motor grenading a slide-and-glide are low, but the flying parts are spectacular. Scary when you think how close your precious bits are to the driveline in a FED.

I've got to install a transmission blanket. The blanket wraps around the Powerglide, and will catch the flying bits if the drums decide to grenade. The blanket needs to be SFI certified. SFI is a certifying body (like ISO or Australian Standards) that sets specification for race gear. The blanket needs to meet SFI spec 4.1... which uses a military specification test for armour and flak jackets . Aiming to run a Stroud SS515 blanket (could also have run a DJ Safety blanket, but like the Stroud one better as it covers more of the bellhousing).

I've also got to have a flexplate shield, though it does not need to be SFI certified. The shield is a simple piece of 1/4" flat metal that covers the tops and side of the flexplate in case the plate cracks or ring gear lets loose.

The guts of the slide-and-glide should be more than up to the task. I'll get the box overhauled, and a steel clutch hub installed. I'll manualise the box (still shifts, but only when you move the shifter lever) by using a TCI Street Fighter 744200 full manual valve body.

Not sure yet how the trans cooler will get set up. No radiator, so if there is any cooling to be done then an aftermarket cooler is needed. Typically if the FED is being towed to the startline and back up the return lane then no cooler is needed... just loop the cooler outlet to the cooler inlet with some simple pipe. If I want to motor this thing back up the return lane, then an aftermarket air cooler is needed, otherwise the hot fluid from the torque convertor will readily fry the clutch packs. Need to think this one through a bit more.

Cheers,
Harv

The midplate will be a good solution to torque twist as well as mounting. Maybe you could space the flexplate back from the crank flange and use flywheel bolts which are longer of course. Are Roger's flexplates 107 tooth or 138 like red motor I wonder?

No doubt you will employ both powerglide rear mount attachment and front engine plate. Cool man.


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Flexplate ordered and on it's way. Manual valve body has arrived, as has flexplate shield. Have to pick up the ballistic blanket this weekend.

'course, a transmission to put all that on would be handy. Need to organise a day trip down south to Brett's place to pick it up.

Chassis is coming together nicely. Builder needs to measure me up to set the distances for the shoulder hoops. Grey motor dummy block in place (should look familiar Mark - with thanks ).


Cheers,
Harv

Cripes Harv. It will be mobile in weeks!