fbekholden.com

Hoonriffic Bevan

FB ute driver, EK van project

What a good read!
I had never heard of such an animal named ‘traction bar’ before!

Man I'm old. I thought I was a Westy, but apparently am a bogan (and perhaps a bevan)

The hoon bit still fits though

Cheers,
Harv

You got out westied by the reffos long ago…..


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Getting closer.

Need to get the bars horizontal. Bump stops trimmed to 1 1/8”. Needs a 5-degree wedge in lieu of the white wood chock.

Final trim up, then off to the brother-in-law for weld out.
Cheers,
Harv

Don't you need clearance from front snubber to spring perch mate ? I wouldn't think having them hard up at rest would work ?

For race vehicles, no gap. For street vehicles, about 1/4" gap. The no-gap option works OK, but can make the rear suspension a little twitchy on the street.

Cheers,
Harv

Good Job Harv,

Drill the sides out with a hole saw to keep the weight down. It is a race car you know !!!!!!!!

Greg

EK283 wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 8:30 amDrill the sides out with a hole saw to keep the weight down. It is a race car you know !!!!!!!!

But then where will I put my Traction.... Action! decals?

Thinking it through, I need to tilt the bars up. Normally a steel wedge is used between the traction bar and bottom spring pad. The Mr Gasket/Lakemaster wedges are expensive (~$80 for two bits of steel ). Could make some out of ally plate, but had a better idea. The suspension rubbers on the FB are all pretty much flogged out. It would probably pay to replace them (and see where the new ones sit) before getting too serious on the traction bars. Nolathane will be stiffer than rubber, so some new Nolathane needs buying. Looking at the Nolathane saddle bushes, they are pretty hefty (20mm thick each) with little smoosh. I reckon I can skim down the bottom one to get the tilt I need without a wedge.

Cheers,
Harv

The sides of the bar are what provides the bulk of the torsional resistance, as well as the all important sticker surface of course. You could though take to the bottom and top with the hole saw.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I once spent an afternoon walking over Harrops Howler, back when John Brown owned it. That thing had holes drilled in places I never knew were possible.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 7:09 am For race vehicles, no gap. For street vehicles, about 1/4" gap. The no-gap option works OK, but can make the rear suspension a little twitchy on the street.

Cheers,
Harv

isn't this going to be licenced ??? I thought that was what all the rigmarole with engineers was about ????

Engineered and registered... but running mech injection, no interior. It will be obnoxious to drive on the street, but will make me grin when I do it.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:13 pm Engineered and registered... but running mech injection, no interior. It will be obnoxious to drive on the street, but will make me grin when I do it.

Cheers,
Harv

There is to be no 'laffin at my boogery tack welds...


Waiting now for the nolathane saddle bushes to arrive, then final fit and fiddle.

Cheers,
Harv