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Elle not happy, “what have you done to my car? Doesn’t sound happy”. Running rich. “Thought that was why you took the old carb off.” Just needs a good tune darling. “ Why couldn’t you do that to the other one?” Yeh, ok…….


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 27, 2025 6:24 pm Elle not happy, “what have you done to my car? Doesn’t sound happy”. Running rich. “Thought that was why you took the old carb off.” Just needs a good tune darling. “ Why couldn’t you do that to the other one?” Yeh, ok…….

They just don't understand do they ? Any idiot can do it the easy way - it takes a REAL man do do everything the hard way ......

Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 27, 2025 6:13 pm Holley blue askers are supposed to be multi-reusable.

Supposed to be, but half the time they stick.

Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 27, 2025 6:13 pm Dribbling fuel out the primary centre rings. Black soot out the zorst.

Dribbling out the primary venturi boosters at idle? If you fixed the needle and seat, next most likely culprit is the power circuit. What setting is the power valve, and how much vacuum does the motor have? If it is lumpy (power valve open at idle), then a power valve setting at half the engine idle is a good start.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Mon Jul 28, 2025 7:10 am

Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 27, 2025 6:13 pm Holley blue gaskets are supposed to be multi-reusable.

Supposed to be, but half the time they stick.

Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 27, 2025 6:13 pm Dribbling fuel out the primary centre rings. Black soot out the zorst.

Dribbling out the primary venturi boosters at idle? If you fixed the needle and seat, next most likely culprit is the power circuit. What setting is the power valve, and how much vacuum does the motor have? If it is lumpy (power valve open at idle), then a power valve setting at half the engine idle vacuum is a good start.

Cheers,
Harv

Guessing you meant that Harv ???

Yep. Coffee first, typing later.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks fellas. Not lumpy, fairly good vacuum. Might have to invest in a gauge.

These blue gaskets are actually only blue on the surface, and they are paper.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Overnight stewing seems to have sorted things out. I advanced timing a bit to 12* initial to improve the idle. Warmed it up and got a decent idle at 800rpm with base mix 2 3/4 turns out.

Miscalculated on my fancy bracket and needed to shorten it 25mm. Cut it down so I can get the rear float bowl off easier as well. Bolt up and road test time.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Went great on the test run, hell yeah! Significant improvement in bottom end response. Then stalled in drive coming in to a slow corner nearly home. Got home and wouldn’t idle in the driveway. So I adjusted the float levels which were both low. Now it is dribbling from one of the boosters again. Pulled metering block and found to be pretty clean apart from some white residue build up here:
Either side of power valve.

Still dribbling one side.


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Sounds like it's a used carb Clay?

Those two hole/imprints are the idle feed. If they are salty/debris-y, the wells could be full of crud. With one side flowing (dribbling) at idle and one side not it's a fair bet one side has a lump in it.

Some alternatives:
a) one main metering jet is larger than the other (stamped different, or one has been flogged out with an oxy tip cleaner).
b) idle screws are not set the same.
c) idle screws are "turned out" the same number of turns, but are very different in profile.
d) idle air bleed is blocked on one side.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv. I was told it was only used to run in a cam but yes. I will check the screws and jet sizes, give the metering block a thorough clean and inspect this morning, and the air bleeds. Looking at this photo, there appears to be shit in the other side idle feed?


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

It may have only seen run-in time, but if it was “rode hard and put away wet” then it will start making pot metal corrosion crud inside. Mebbe time for a clean and kit.

Those little brass insert doovers are the idle feed restrictors. Looks like one is blocked solid. Careful rodding them out - ultrasonic if you have access to one.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv. Happy days!! Hope I’m not speaking too soon as it wouldn’t be the first time.

I’m pretty sure the jets are 57. Factory list 8007 are 51. Power valve is stock 65. Idle screws all good. Compressed air seems to have don the job in clearing out the idle feed restrictors and rest of the metering block. I gave the air bleeds on top a blast as well for good measure.

Back together, adjusted float. Fired up on electric choke and no more dribbling. Adjusted choke, warmed up and adjusted idle screws to 1 3/4 turns out.

Went for a 40km drive. Other than a slight ping in a couple of spots in the rev range under full throttle top gear, I can’t fault it. Bottom end pickup is markedly improved as is idle over the 350. I will back the timing off a couple of degrees as it is currently at 12* initial. The fuel is over a month old so probably only good for 91 octane anyway. Better put some stabiliser in with
the fresh tankful.


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Happy days

Cheers,
Harv

Went for a 40km drive. Other than a slight ping in a couple of spots in the rev range under full throttle top gear, I can’t fault it. Bottom end pickup is markedly improved as is idle over the 350. I will back the timing off a couple of degrees as it is currently at 12* initial. The fuel is over a month old so probably only good for 91 octane anyway.

Better low down, what about WOT ? Fuel consumption may go up if the Dr Martin gets pressed though !

Greg

EK283 wrote: Tue Jul 29, 2025 5:33 pm Better low down, what about WOT ? Fuel consumption may go up if the Dr Martin gets pressed though !

Yep. 360 on the 4-barrel vacuum scale is a LOT bigger than 350 on the 2-barrel vacuum scale. Driven sensibly, it will perform the same. Driven with spirit in the top end it will go better, but be thirsty.

Cheers,
Harv