WRAY T96 SUPERCHARGER refurb and install

[FJWALLY]

I think you want it to look stock BUT you could recess the radiator into the support bar by 12 mm or so it would give you a little more room

Like this:

12B45591-87E7-4129-97C4-E972E54FA4B5.jpeg

Cheers,
Harv

Yeah I already had one cut just like that so test fitted up today and it will work - move fave forward a bit more also so I dont need to trim the blades
On to plumbing and belts in prep to give it a puff


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[Harv]

On to plumbing and belts in prep to give it a puff

a) belts from Supercheap.
b) block vacuum ports with rubber hose (hose over nipple, bolt in hose, hose clamps).
c) plastic funnel and rubber hose to carb.
d) check fire extinguisher.
e) fire it up.
f) grin.
g) repeat.

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

I had a fan like that and trimmed it down then the car overheated at idle so good plan.

You can get little blind rubber things to go over the ports.

Looking smick Rob.

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[FJWALLY]

I'm going to plumb it up with rubber hose to get it running then get my wizard pipe guy to set up some hardlines later on. went into the bearing place this morning and got fuel and vacuum and nipples - gotta have nipples!

Got the set of indicator housings back from Chromer today Harv so if you still need the old ones for Graces ute give me a shout.

On to plumbing and belts in prep to give it a puff

a) belts from Supercheap.
b) block vacuum ports with rubber hose (hose over nipple, bolt in hose, hose clamps).
c) plastic funnel and rubber hose to carb.
d) check fire extinguisher.
e) fire it up.
f) grin.
g) repeat.

Cheers,
Harv

[ardiesse]

Rob,

I'd suggest you get your radiator's frame taken off and reversed. Then you can use spacers as required to achieve the clearance you need.
(Minor work to overflow hose and clips may be required.)

Rob

[FJWALLY]

Yeah shouldn't need it Rob - Ive had the support cut in a way that the radiator mounts can sit forward of the support and fill panels and as you say some spacers in the top to push the rad away from support(forward) gives me a lot more room than I thought - I can only move it around 10mm forward without having issues with the bonnet on the radiator cap.
The bottom of the rad is fine as the clearance at bottom was a lot more than the top anyway.

Cheers
Rob

Rob,

I'd suggest you get your radiator's frame taken off and reversed. Then you can use spacers as required to achieve the clearance you need.
(Minor work to overflow hose and clips may be required.)

Rob

[Harv]

Got the set of indicator housings back from Chromer today Harv so if you still need the old ones for Graces ute give me a shout.

Yes please. If you can spare them, they will find a good home on her ute. Happy to pay for parts and postage.

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

Rob,
I pricked my ears up when you said clearance is less at the top. Why not check your engine to pinion angle. You may be able to lower your rear mounts to obtain more clearance at the top of the fan, without losing any at the bottom, as long as you can keep the pinion and crank axes parallel within say three degrees. Drag racers say the pinion axis should be pointing downward toward the front 3 degrees relative to the crank angle, to allow for hard launching, but I think the angle is critical at speed. You can use wedges in the spring saddles to adjust pinion angle as well. Just a thought but might be a way of helping to keep the stock look. And hey surely the old racers fitting blowers would have been fine tuning these things so hey it’s authentic.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FJWALLY]

Rob,
I pricked my ears up when you said clearance is less at the top. Why not check your engine to pinion angle. You may be able to lower your rear mounts to obtain more clearance at the top of the fan, without losing any at the bottom, as long as you can keep the pinion and crank axes parallel within say three degrees. Drag racers say the pinion axis should be pointing downward toward the front 3 degrees relative to the crank angle, to allow for hard launching, but I think the angle is critical at speed. You can use wedges in the spring saddles to adjust pinion angle as well. Just a thought but might be a way of helping to keep the stock look. And hey surely the old racers fitting blowers would have been fine tuning these things so hey it’s authentic.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Lol - yeah if I start doing wheelies I’ll give that a try - I dont know why I was so hesitant to us the chopped rad support after going to the trouble of getting it done - learning a lot as I go along.
Ive gone to hard on the first rad support and its a bit rough so going to have the original done to the right clearance now. Puff Puff


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[ardiesse]

. . . probably easier to put a spacer under the front engine mount. But air cleaner may then have negative clearance with voltage regulator.

Rob

[Errol62]

Yes but would be less effective, moving fulcrum away from the issue. C'mon Rob high school geometry. Spacers between subframe and mount carriers. Also lowering engine rather than raising improve clearance to throttle bar and lower centre of gravity. Clearance to drag link at lock had to be taken in to account of course.

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[ardiesse]

Conceded . . .

[Harv]

The "how do I get a pulley further forward" problem is one that I will face on the meth monster project. I suspect the normal tricks of recessing the radiator support bar and flipping the frame won't work for me, as I want to run a gilmer pulley.

I'm thinking custom radiator, perhaps slightly wider with some subframe flap trimming. Paint the thing black, use original filler neck. Stelf.

Split the top and bottom tanks into two with an internal divider, as per Aussie Desert Coolers, so that you get a two-pass radiator (velocity increases, approach temperature on outlet can decrease, far better cooling). Either split the core into two with a big gap in the middle for the pulley (block off the little remaining tube stubs at the tanks), or cut a circular hole for the pulley (with clearance) and leave the (crimped off) tubes in place above/below the pulley. Loose a bit of cooling because of the tubes taken out, but get better cooling from 2-pass operation and perhaps wider core.

Still more thinking to do.

Cheers,
Harv

[FJWALLY]

If you wanted to make a custom tank you would be fine - get one with the filler moved either left or right so you clergies the bonnet catch mount - go wider is no issue - flip mounts to back so you can mount forward of the flaps But you need reduce the height of the rad so the bottom can come up and over the stone guard - if still an issue then a couple of front mount thermos would free up heaps of space - the fan is the big killer.

[Errol62]

Seen a Torana with the radiator in the boot.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie