fbekholden.com

nice one mate, i haven't had to do any real rustwork for quite a while , when I see a post like this I want to get in and have a go at it but I know if I was at that stage I would get sick of it pretty quick

Kudos to you and others who are prepared to put the hard yards in and fix stuff that a lot of times would otherwise end up scrapped

Thanks Blacky, it sure can get tedious at times.
Nothing to report today other than lead wiped the dip in the windscreen pillar and cut away a bit of the rust around the fuel tank. Actually a bit better underneath than I was expecting but still plenty to do.
Rotisserie tomorrow if all goes to plan.

Not many people have lead wiping skill in their repertoire Brett. I know I don't. Even though these cars have quite a bit of it. I'm sure it would be much more stable than the polyester bog most use these days. No doubt you have suitable safety measures in place. Oh and no new offspring on the horizon, I'm fairly confident.

FB ute driver, EK van project

I don't like it much either Clay, but for that little exposed hollow, bog might just crack and let go. No risk of the lead doing that. It took about 30 seconds to apply and then about 5 minutes to get it level and smooth.
As to your other proposition...

I have done LEAD.

Its a bit tedious but not that difficult once you get the hang of it.

As for the one time you use it, it will be fine. Just don't breath the fumes or dust.

There was an old guy in America that used led in his custom cars since he was 16 and lived to 90 odd. He is on you tube as leadmaster or something like that !!

Greg

Yes. I have seen those videos. Amazing. I am not proficient, just sufficient

The only reason lead was used back in the day was because there was no bog available, I am happy to use bog these days with the advances made in technology

I'm going to stop mentioning lead in my projects cause everyone gets excited - except me.
Small milestone today. Now that I have enough meat on the firewall to mount it, Fred is now strung up on the rotisserie. I won't show you how it's mounted at the back as I'm too ashamed.
I can't use the usual spring shackle mounts cause there are big holes and that's where I'm working first.

Wow really ripping through it mate. Well done.

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Thanks Clint, fortunately time is plentiful.

Rear half off the rotisserie again, now that springs are off and I've had a good look around. Ready for major rear end surgery. Some minor repairs to both frames, (but fortunately not needed on the underneath and outside facings) about 400mm long and then the fuel tank flooring and tail gate surround panel work.

I've got good cuts on both the FC rear end and also 'old rusty', so should be very little to fabricate. Very hopeful that spring hangers will be OK to stay in place- might put a bit extra in there just in case.

Once this work is done, back on the rotisserie again for new sills and the rest of the rust repairs.




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Suburban chassis strengthening kit doing its job by the looks Brett. Gee this will be interesting mate. I only had to replace a bit of the passenger side, and the "transom" was pretty well all there. On the bright side, I guess, at least access to the rails is made easier by the complete absence of the rear bit.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Yes Clay, there are two positives: plenty of space and not much to clean away. Probably a bit crazy playing with this ute but I've already got the motor ready for it (a lot of money spent) so need something to hang it on now.
Good to see you cracking on with the van.

PS. The chassis strengthening kit was also my rear rotisserie mount.

Brett027 wrote: Fri Sep 17, 2021 6:22 pm
PS. The chassis strengthening kit was also my rear rotisserie mount.

I kinda figured that was the case - no shame in that mate considering the lack of anything solid to bolt it to - i thought you might have slid a bit of pipe into each taillight hole and welded something to that - now THAT would have been dodgy !!!

Do the fc utes share all the same rear parts as the fb ek utes

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Pretty much. The bits I need are the same anyway. Something must change around the rear window opening but rear quarter panels and all other rear panels and pans in FC, FB and EK utes appear to be the same. Bolt holes on tail gate hinges are different I think, but an easy work around.