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FireKraka wrote: Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:41 am Looking great J keep them coming.
Neil

Hi - whats the little tag below and to left of the regulator? Is that an engineering tag of some sort?

FJWALLY wrote:Hi - whats the little tag below and to left of the regulator? Is that an engineering tag of some sort?

Hey mate
No, it’s factory as far as I’m aware... I have seen them on other cars.

Can anyone shed any light on what it signifies?






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Coupla more things tonight, as I chip away: curved top alternator bracket from 318ci Chrysler motor arrived, needed shortening, drilling and a bit of shaping to get it set up. Looks & works rool good but







Also dragged Leroy’s banged up front bumper down from the roof, then discovered a spare one up there that past Joe must have stockpiled, much to present day Joe’s great joy. I think it was gonna go with the Sedan I sold as a roller, but I musta grabbed it out at the last minute... clever me.
It’s much straighter and only needed a few hits here and there to pull some dings out. Scrubbed the back of em & hit with rust converter. The front polished up reasonably well too!










Think I might replaced my bashed in over-riders though - has anyone got a couple they might want to part with cheaply? My bank balance is still recovering from the engine build


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Dear brains trust...

So the exchange reco crashbox I’ve installed is leaking at an alarming rate from the selector seal(s) and i haven’t even driven the car anywhere yet... Not sure they were replaced at all tbh.
It’s going to be easier for me to simply replace the seal and... o-ring (?) rather than drive all the way out to see old mate who I got the box from and pester him.

I know the top (horizontal) selector is a seal, but what is used for the lower (vertical) selector? Pics from my spare gearbox below to explain - is it an o-Ring or a cork seal, or something else?

And does anyone know where I can buy these separately?





Thanks in advance




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Joe,

The lower seal is cork. If you have the spare spacer bits from your newly installed pushrod cover gasket and a couple of wad punches, you can cut yourself a new oil seal. Or use a relatively thick-section 1/4" ID O-ring.
The transverse selector shaft oil seal is available separately from CBC Bearings. They'll even have it listed in their catalogue. But best to remove the old one and take it along to the bearing place. The original part number is 7403035, and CBC will have a cross-reference. (Shh, I have a couple of NOS ones at home . . .)
Hint: the replacement seal is about half the thickness of the original, so buy and install two, one on top of the other.
Hint(2): Chamfer the hole in the housing to make it easier to start the new seal. Being thin, they distort easily.

Dumb question, this, but . . .
Have you over-filled your gearbox, by any chance?

Rob

ardiesse wrote:Joe,

The lower seal is cork. If you have the spare spacer bits from your newly installed pushrod cover gasket and a couple of wad punches, you can cut yourself a new oil seal. Or use a relatively thick-section 1/4" ID O-ring.
The transverse selector shaft oil seal is available separately from CBC Bearings. They'll even have it listed in their catalogue. But best to remove the old one and take it along to the bearing place. The original part number is 7403035, and CBC will have a cross-reference. (Shh, I have a couple of NOS ones at home . . .)
Hint: the replacement seal is about half the thickness of the original, so buy and install two, one on top of the other.
Hint(2): Chamfer the hole in the housing to make it easier to start the new seal. Being thin, they distort easily.

Dumb question, this, but . . .
Have you over-filled your gearbox, by any chance?

Rob

Hey Rob,

I was hoping you’d say it was cork - I’ve already been digging for some left over gasket material after I had closer look at the disintegrated old one. Great minds?

Thanks for the CBC info- this is great. I also quite like the idea of doubling up two thin seals, I imagine the inner one ends up acting as a bit of a bush. These selectors do seem a little floppy at the best of times.

And no, not a dumb question at all. I’m quite sure it is a little over full. I stuck the fill plug in as soon as it over flowed (I filled it using my patented heater hose gravity feed setup) and the car was up on stands at the front only. It’s level, up on four stands as I type, I’ll pop the plug and let some oil out now.


Joe


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Donned some thick gloves and yanked the splintering tongue & groove wood out of the tray tonight, fuel tank’s out too. About 10L or vanish drained from that, but the tank and filler neck appears to be in perfect order. No dents, no rust, no leaks. Blew out the fuel line with compressed air for good measure too.





Bit of an archeological dig beneath the floor, with old coins, shoes and a couple of very rusty tin cans discovered. Maybe they were sacrificial anodes?! - very happy to find minimal cancer in all the many nooks & crannies in the rear floor. Everything (and i mean eeeverything) has been drenched in fish oil at some point. Suits me.

Evidence of some slightly average panel repairs between rear wheel arch and the doors, but at least they’re metal, not all bog & flyscreen. Eventually I’ll sand it back from the outside and see how it is, but not a priority now. With the side panels out, more of the original Pittwater Green is revealed on the inner quarters, which makes me pine for that colour yet again. One day...

I’ve soaked the top of the fuel level sender in WD40, so we’ll see if I can convince any of the four blobs of rust to unscrew during the week. Fearlessly predicting that the order of proceedings for that mission will be something like: vice grips, then chisel... then drill. Wish me luck eh.




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Good luck. There should be more than four? The indent in the tank makes a good receptacle for penetrant. Do you have an old school impact punch driver? They should come out okay.
Cheers
Clay


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Errol62 wrote:Good luck. There should be more than four? The indent in the tank makes a good receptacle for penetrant. Do you have an old school impact punch driver? They should come out okay.
Cheers
Clay


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Haha well, I counter four after a quick scrub with a little wire brush... there may be more.
Yes I have a legendary old impact driver with a selection of blade/Phillips bits, that thing has been a saviour on this build a few times already



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man those wheel arches have copped a pizzling over the years gotta be happy with the rust situation

Blacky wrote: Mon Mar 05, 2018 11:17 pm man those wheel arches have copped a pizzling over the years gotta be happy with the rust situation

Once I get some free time, me and my hammer are gonna give those wheel arches some more pizzling... only from underneath this time!

ardiesse wrote:Joe,

The transverse selector shaft oil seal is available separately from CBC Bearings. They'll even have it listed in their catalogue. But best to remove the old one and take it along to the bearing place. The original part number is 7403035, and CBC will have a cross-reference. (Shh, I have a couple of NOS ones at home . . .)

Rob

Hang on to your NOS Rob. My bro (who owes me quite a few favours) works down the street from CBC out in Weatherill Park, so I’m sorted. I don’t reckon $4.95 will break the bank




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Joe,

The replacement seals are the same dimension as the originals, if I read right: 5/8" shaft dia, 1.00" bore dia, 3/16" deep.
Done good.

Rob

ardiesse wrote:Joe,

The replacement seals are the same dimension as the originals, if I read right: 5/8" shaft dia, 1.00" bore dia, 3/16" deep.
Done good.

Rob

Oh I meant to mention - yes, the narrower seals that the factory part number matched to weren’t in stock when I called, but he offered these 3/16” items and I figured they were closer to OEM. Given the price, I grabbed a couple regardless.

I’ll report back when I get my mits on them and install. Part number is TC12012KOK if it’s of interest to anyone else also.

Cheers Joe


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