luke and kimmy's ek special - colour done, onto reassembly

t950cat · Post by **t950cat** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:27 pm

cable ties and super glue the best invention ever

my70wg · Post by **my70wg** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:41 pm

my thermo is mounted through my radiator with these things similar to cabel ties they go throught the radiator and clip on the other side

aidan...

Stygian · Post by **Stygian** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 3:27 pm

Yeah, from the front it sounds like a Hitler's Revenge, but from the back it sounds alright... no doubt you'll have that leak fixed and it'll sound excellent...

matches · Post by **matches** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:21 pm

haven't done much in a while with christmas, getting sick and kira's birthday coming up on sunday.
finally got back out to the garage with a wonderful christmas present from my cousin down south

.

it was an fb guard but i soon fixed that

he also brought up 2 sets of ute springs for me

so now i'll be able to run with the 6 leaf rear instead of the 4 leaf sedan springs (should help limit bottoming out when towing my old bondwood van). now the garage is starting to look like a springworks factory

cheers, luke.

matches · Post by **matches** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:19 am

well, i pulled the rear end out yesterday getting ready for the ute springs and lowering blocks to go in.

now while i'm waiting for the nolathane slipper pads, saddles and bushes to turn up i can clean all the underbody.

can anyone tell me what this diff centre would be out of? it overhangs on the flange all the way around the diff centre casing (or is this normal?)

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:47 am

it's just a later centre EH upwards
couple of things to consider 99% of blue slip places won't pass a car with lowering blocks in
and if the car doesn't have it already you will need a proportioning valve or have to change the diff housing to a later type EJ to HR, cause you have disc brake front you will need the equivalent rear brakes which as far as i know can't be put onto the early housing

matches · Post by **matches** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:59 am

thanks for the info RB, my engineer has told me that he'll pass lowering blocks for me (as long as i don't go stupidly low

)

i think i'll go with a proportioning valve rather than change diff housings, i'm getting my local brake guy to run new lines though and setup the booster for the front and dual circuit brakes for me (i'll do most things, but braking is one of those safety items i'd rather pay the money to have a professional complete for me).
cheers, luke.

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:15 pm

if you have dual circut you should be rite and if a brake guy is doing this stuff there should be no dramas

matches · Post by **matches** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:00 pm

thats what i was hoping RB

thanks for the ever helpful advice, alot of what you have helped me out with i hadn't really put much thought into (so its good someone does

)
cheers, luke.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 10:43 pm

Making some good progress.

Still love the look of that motor.

And the red should look great.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 12:15 am

Lowering blocks aren't illegal as such but you will find that if they are fitted and they lower the amount of suspension travel more than one third of the original factory standard bump rubber to rebound point clearance that then makes the lowering block modification illegal.

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:13 pm

i'm yet to find a blue slip place (and have a very easy going guy ATM) and even some pink slip places that will wear them, without even measuring a thing they just look and say they gotta go

but haveing them on the engineers report should solve any of those problems

matches · Post by **matches** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:08 pm

thanks for the input guys, RB, thats what i'm hoping

today i dismantled the diff assembly, its all in good condition, just thought i'd double check everything (i never fully believe what previous owners say about condition of things until i check them out for myself)
its running a 3.66 diff, this should run pretty well with my current configuration shouldn't it (30/70 cam 186 and aussie 4 speed)? wheels and tyres will be same rolling diameter as standard so thats one less thing to factor in, i will be doing a little bit of towing, but my old van isn't real heavy anyway.
cheers, luke.

matches · Post by **matches** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 3:01 pm

got the diff housing all ready for paint today

now just to work out what colour to paint it

black, silver or body colour (it is only going to be a daily driver

) should i use hitemp paint for the diff housing or won't it really get too hot?
cheers, luke.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 3:17 pm

Diffs get warmish in normal use and even in Summer driving you could hold your hand on it for a reasonable period as opposed to trying to hold your hand on a hot engine.

If you plan on circuit racing then yep, Hi Temp paint but normal everyday use doesn't really need it.

No harm done if you do decide to go Hi Temp though.