fbekholden.com

I was going to paint inside the bars either silver enamel but to impatient to let the metalfix cure.


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Mission accomplished


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Good job mate and I see it was Stout time dy then

Yep. Lights working. Exhaust exhausting. Calling it done for now.

On to sills. The drains were mostly blocked. One had been spot welded right in the middle,so this sill is the original. Cheap unskilled labour put these together.

Pulled out a lump of tar and found this.

I’m giving it the metalfix and fibre treatment.
Let it cure a bit then another coat and close it up so I can flood the sills with the good stuff. Not stout, I mean fisholene.

I will leave the outside as long as I can before I touch it up.


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The other side I not as bad but similar
Front inner had a repair


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Pretty good for its design and age you know !

Ive never used that metal fix, got a small job on an engine block to seat a gasket, might try it on that.

Greg

Very good for original, I agree.

METALFIX is a tough, fire-retardant primer designed for application directly over badly rusted surfaces. It converts the rust into a metal phosphate within the paint film and simultaneously forms a protective abrasion-resistant skin which tolerates temperatures from minus 40 degrees C, up to approximately 1000 degrees C. The coating can be used in conjunction with glass fibre matting to repair non-structural rusted holes in surfaces including steel water tanks, gutters, roof panels, and the trays of utilities or pick-up trucks. METALFIX will take any type of topcoat.

Above taken from the website, but I disagree with the last sentence, which is why I use enamel over it.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Friday instalment time.

Found a clever way to clean out inside the sills, using my gurney driven drain snake. Just a 1/2” pressure hose with a nozzle that squirts back sling the hose, pushing the head forward to punch through minor obstructions. Due to the rusted cover pieces at the rear end of each sill I can poke the hose right to the far end. Fire it up and gradually drag it out pushes a lot of the scale, flakes, dust and dirt, leaving the sills ready to be sealed up and saturated with the fisholene. I’ve known others to just use good old sump oil.

Ordered a spirit bubble alignment tool. The digital ones read out to 0.1* but dearer. This one is graduated to 0.5 degree so interpolatable to the same order. In reality 1/8* is about the reliable precision of these measurements, given the tolerances on the measuring surfaces, particularly if using old steelies.

Warmest weather lately forecast 18*C so good opportunity to paint the scuff plates.

Warmed them up on the combustion heater yesterday and primed in protec 458, after phosphoric acid, rinse and prep wipe.
As usual I pushed it and got a run doh!
I love this paint. 2:1+10%. Metallic silver straight off the gun.



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I closed up the end of the sill with donor sheet from the panel van wavy quarter I took off it.
Welded to tub and inner sill and sealed with mastic. Coat of satin enamel then ready to flood and on to the other side. Though I did find this as well needs addressing.

Not too bad. Outer is solid. Lots of shutz buildup and dirt making a nice poultice. It’s good I am finding all this and sorting it out before it gets serious.


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Stop scratching Clay, youll find less.

Good to attend now rather than let it get away.

Greg

EK283 wrote: Sat Jul 05, 2025 1:51 pm Stop scratching Clay, youll find less.

Good to attend now rather than let it get away.

Greg

it proves a point i've always said when people claim their car has "no rust" unless you've had it apart or had a GOOD dig around, "no rust" is a VERY big claim

I’ve now fixed all the bits that needed attention.


Passenger back arch corner looks good as is.

I’ve actuallt sealed up all the drain holes in the sills with mastic and I will tape over the top to temporarily seal them up. Ready for flooding.


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Great work Clay,

Looks like you are getting the hang of the welding also, car good for another 30 !!

Greg

Thanks Greg. Hard to get a clean surface. Sometimes just have to give it a good fry. Luckily no blow throughs. Lap welds with weld through primer.


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Completed flooding the sills with fisholene. I poured 5 litres in the driver side sill and it leaked out from the top of the inner, as well as the rear chassis rail and no 1 body member. About 4.5 litres came back out, which I poured in the passenger side. Most of that leaked out at the front, at the back of the A-pillar bottom. There has been a repair done here previously but I assume without taking off the subframe, and there is still some rust between the number 1 body member and the outer subframe leg mounting point. Then poured a cup full in the bottom of each A-pillar, through the oval shaped holes just above the inside floor level.

Ended up retrieving a full 4 litre container, so I’ve used a litre in total in the two sills.


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