fbekholden.com

ITS SHMEAGIAN HI EK 283 DO YOU WONT TO SELL YOUR ATHERE FRONT END KEEP THE PIC OFF THE TORANA FRONT COMING IM THINKING OFF DOING THE SAME

Shme, I will indeed sell the Castlemaine front end but a little later on will let you know

Regards Greg

nothing like a deadline to get things moving again Greg. Good to see

Hi guys a little more progress today,
Brackets made and welding done,

Cross member finally in and trial fitted,


Not sure what to do with the brakes yet, looks like the old favourite P76 and HZ callipers with HZ stubs. The torana stubs are a bugger cause no brake calliper will fit without some grinding for clearance. I have 14 inch wheels and need the track as narrow as possible.

Motor now needs to go back in for clearance check and mount fabrication.
Regards Greg

Hi Greg..
...are you going to leave the inner guard cut hole there? The reason I ask is that 'I would' because the adding of 'shims' for your castor 'n' camber would be a whole lot easier that way(as their a pain in the arse the original way ). You could also make a door or rubber flap as well.
That car will steer like a charm after all the front end work into it.

Scotty.

Hey Scotty,
Not sure about the inner guards yet, have got some ideas but need to make a decision on the exhaust first.
Trial fitted the motor last night a few tidy ups in certain areas.

I have set the front to reflect the exact wheel base of the EK (105 inches) but the UC front has offset ball joints to the rear, so the wheel appears to sit closer to the rear of the guard. I have some LH/LX top wishbones that will make the wheel sit foward by about 15mm, not sure what I will use yet. This will be the finished ride hieght at this point in time.


More later,
Regards Greg

Lookong good there mate, good to see some major progress!

Where to after the front end?

Cheers
Nathan

Looking good Greg

Sputzwagon wrote:Hi Greg..
...are you going to leave the inner guard cut hole there? The reason I ask is that 'I would' because the adding of 'shims' for your castor 'n' camber would be a whole lot easier that way(as their a pain in the arse the original way ). You could also make a door or rubber flap as well.
That car will steer like a charm after all the front end work into it.

Scotty.

Hi greg. to solve this problem of shim adjustment you can fabricate a plate out of 25 x 3 mm flat and bend it the shape of the top wishbone mount and drill holes to suit the mounting bolts. Then weld 2 tabs either end to pick up the flats on the nuts. This will stop the nuts from turning when you undo the bolts for adjustment. You can then weld back in what you cut out leaving a nice clean engine bay. Hope this helps
cheers black duck

More progress,
Although it dosent look much theres a few hours here,
Made up the chassis block for the rear of the torana x member, just need the bracket to be made.

Engine mounts made up , I will box them later when the front end is back out.

Had to modify the alternator bracket, it fits now but is fairly close. If it hits under acceleration I will use a mini alternator.




The radiator fits snug as well about 15mm clearance to the pully. I have a trick up my sleeve so the motor wont move foward, will show you later.

Back to the shed,
Regards Greg

Hi Greg , when you make up the bracket for the rear of the x member , can you make a couple extra
You're moving along well , know how the hours get swallowed up doing the little bits

I like the clean look with the mounting of the radiator,keep it up

Cheers Arthur(arty64)

Can I just say that I have been reading lots and am excited about the number of builds coming out of garages or hitting the road soon, GOOD TIMES>

Not much progress but a little none the less
Have made the rear mounts for the torrie cross member. They are just made up from 6mm C chanel only because thats what I had lying around the garage. They will be super strong, maybe overkill but what the hell.

I have also cut down slightly a HT steering column (want the plain look inside blinker only) and made a brass bush for the end, hopefully it will spin ok but later I may put a bearing on the end.
The position is final and it has now given me the challenge of beside the rail extractors, wish me luck !


Regards Greg

Hi Guys,
Its been a couple of weeks and I haven't had much time for the car, need less time at work and more at home
Some progress has been made though.
For the brake set up Im using a Gemini booster mated to a &*#@ xb master cylinder. I have had all these bits for many years so is time to use them all up.

You need to cut about 25mm off the original pushrod and re thread it for it to have the correct stroke.
If you are going to use the same set up make sure you use the booster that has the bolts horizontal as the Gemini has 2 types of master cylinders.

I now need to bend the original pedal now to clear the steering column as the booster is now located in the middle of the pedal box. (soory no photo yet). I like the small compact booster but if it dosen't work to good there is plenty of room for a larger one.

Also got some pipes bent up so I can start making all the hangers


Till next time Greg

Great to see some progress, even with the little time you have
It all adds up in the end

Cheers
Jeff

Just a small update,
When i initially priced the extractors there wasn't anyone really keen to build them for me. I had quotes of up to $2500.00 so I thought Ill give it a go. Christ what a bastard of a job, but Im getting there slowly. Actually 16 hours so far !!!!!!!!




Thought I had heaps of room till I remembered the swaybar I now know why they were being quoted so much.

Till next time Greg