EK Wagon project - Total rebuild

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:31 am

Thanks FB Mad.

No, haven't had a wheel alignment done. Was going to wait until it was finished first. Plus I have new tie rods and ball joints to put on first.

That would also possibly explain the difference in lock and why one flexible hose was too short.

Damn.....................
The front end was previous on a EJ ????? I think. But I haven't touched the alignment, and would have thought it would have been close to OK.

Still it's the most logical answer so far.

If EH sump is 1 inch longer than that's obviously not an option for a grey motor fix.

Devilrod · Post by **Devilrod** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:43 pm

Put the original steering arms back on Finny, the hook upto HR stubs fine. That will take care of the clearance.

Brake lines should be the same side to side.

Trev · Post by **Trev** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 5:30 pm

Finny wrote:

No experience here but what I would do is turn the wheel until it hits the sump (pic 1), then adjust the tie rods left and right so it just clears the sump, then turn the steering to the other side (pic2) and see if it misses that side aswell, Trev

.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:15 pm

"If EH sump is 1 inch longer than that's obviously not an option for a grey motor fix".

Nup, they won't fit a grey motor even though they are similar shape.That's why EH sumps command such a high price because they are the only sump that will fit a red to HR front end.

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:27 pm

i have a red motor with HR steering and disc front and my steering just touches like yors, but i figure the amount i will be driving around on full lock it's not worth worrying about it, i've had this before and i've also had cars where it comes nowhere near hitting

maybe EH drag link is the solution, 4 reasons i don't go back to EK drag link
1. must be a reason why they changed

2. i've had the pitman arm drop out of the EK type drag link

not fun
3. i don't have one

4. as above it doesn't really worry me

with yor fluid leakage if the bore of the cylinder looks ok all i usually change is the cup shaped rubber they cost a couple of bucks and you can get slight oversizes aswell, i prolly have a 99% sucess rate doing this

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:13 am

Lots of rain is a good thing, but seems to be slowing the progress down a little.

Finally up to the cutting and welding stage.
Only a couple of minor areas to fix. Not finished yet.

Post by **Blacky** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:16 am

Probably a bit late now , but its a good idea to put a cover over your glass before grinding and welding - otherwise you will end up with a lumpy rusty windscreen

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:21 pm

Good point.

I think most of the sparks were headed away from it. It was probably the welding that I should have been more careful.

I have a spare anyhow ..........

V8EK4us · Post by **V8EK4us** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:34 pm

Good progress Finny, looking good mate.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:24 pm

Rain has stopped and ground has dried up a enough to get the compressor out, so managed to finish painting under the bonnet.
Now I can put it all back together again.

parisian62 · Post by **parisian62** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:49 pm

nice work Finny. You must have sent all the rain down to NSW...been bucketing here for about a week...

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:06 pm

geting there mate

Devilrod · Post by **Devilrod** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:29 pm

parisian62 wrote:nice work Finny. You must have sent all the rain down to NSW...been bucketing here for about a week...

Send it down here!!!!

oldnek · Post by **oldnek** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:33 pm

Will that grey motor fit inside your garbage bin Finny

Go to see progress, Mate....

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:50 pm