fbekholden.com

In the Shed wrote:Hey Joe,
No stopping you now, keen to see this motor come back together. How long do they reckon you'll be out of action for?

Regards
Stephen

Only a week or two I hope - it’s just about keeping it clean while the stitches dissolve and healing happens.

Sending all these bits off for diagnosis/machining at this point is therefore perfect, because it will take a week or two for it all to come back... I can’t order rings till I know if the original bore size can be retained too.

Hence the mad rush today!




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Won’t that rear engined grey powered subi be prone to over steer?


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Good luck with the finger j


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Joe,

It looks like Clutch Industries has changed the design of the 220 mm pressure plate compared with the original Holden one: they've relieved a lot of material away on the pressure plate cover above the tension straps. This was where my HR pressure plate rubbed on the inside of the grey bellhousing. So, you'll have no interference troubles.

Rob

Errol62 wrote: Fri Jan 12, 2018 8:21 am Won’t that rear engined grey powered subi be prone to over steer?

That beast is my Mitsubishi Mirage! Rides and handles much better with a drumkit (or Grey motor) between the rear strut towers, but sure is a lot slower outta the hole that's for sure! hahaha

With aircon, power steer, half the fuel consumption, half the physical size... and half the ticket price of the Chrysler Centura daily-driver it replaced, it has improved the quality of my inner city life out of sight. I've also been to Melbourne and back three times in it already, and fits more cargo in it than the Chrylser too!! Can't believe how much I love that little thing. No shame at all

ardiesse wrote: Fri Jan 12, 2018 11:16 am Joe,

It looks like Clutch Industries has changed the design of the 220 mm pressure plate compared with the original Holden one: they've relieved a lot of material away on the pressure plate cover above the tension straps. This was where my HR pressure plate rubbed on the inside of the grey bellhousing. So, you'll have no interference troubles.

Rob

Oh great! my old clutch is buried under a mountain of valve covers and engine parts in the tray of the Ute, I'll dig it out and compare eventually. At first glance, it seems very low profile to me.

If it's a good thing, I'll post pics in the clutch thread when it's all together.

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thebrotherj wrote: Fri Jan 12, 2018 11:34 amIf it's a good thing, I'll post pics in the clutch thread when it's all together.

Watching this one with interest... the spare clutch for the FB is a Clutch Industries one too. Tried fitting a new red motor clutch to the FB about 5 years ago and could not get it to go on for love nor money. Suspect it was fouling, so gave up and put the old clutch back in. The last five years of Sydney traffic (and towing ) have not been good for the clutch... suspect Number 1 Son's driving training will finish it off.

Cheers,
Harv

Earlier, I was bragging about how great my two-bob old universal gear puller has been over the years. I spoke too soon: it has met it’s match!

I have a new timing gear set to go in the Grey, so the old crank gear has to go. The arms of my puller were too short to reach, so I whipped up some longer ones. However, this changed the pivot angle of the claws and they slipped off when tensioned.





So I wrapped the main journal with lots of tape, then (rather clumsily) welded into place a triangle of 10mm square steel behind the gear, loose on the journal and with enough space for the claws, which I reversed.







This worked well! However, all I succeeded in doing when I really leant on my long breaker bar, was bending the triangle... and failed to budge the gear at all.

Admittedly, I should be attempting this with the crank in the motor where it would’ve been easier to manage. But I wasn’t expecting it to put up such a fight and I gave it enough force to destroy the triangle, so it clearly wasn’t meant to be!

Guess I’ll have to get the machine shop to take care of it


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Oxy?


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No, what you generally do is set the crankshaft up on a press with press plates, pump the press up, hear a loud "bang" as the timing gear starts to move, and then you get so involved in the removal process that the crank comes free and drops on the floor.

But you could do way worse than to heat the crankshaft gear up with a torch. You're not going to re-use it.

Rob

Errol62 wrote: Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:49 pm Oxy?

While I do have a very nice MIG in my tiny workshop, I do not have a basic oxy setup... silly, yes. If I'm still frigging around with this later in the week (I've gotta let my finger heal) I'll hit it with a propane torch at least. Thanks for the pointer

I do mine with an LPG torch when pulling and or refitting. I just make sure I don't heat the gear beyond 120 deg c using a infared temp gun. Pulling the gear you need to go hard and fast with the heat before it all transfers to the crank. If no luck wait till it all totally cools overnight and have a go again the next day.

ardiesse wrote: Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:59 pm No, what you generally do is set the crankshaft up on a press with press plates, pump the press up, hear a loud "bang" as the timing gear starts to move, and then you get so involved in the removal process that the crank comes free and drops on the floor.

But you could do way worse than to heat the crankshaft gear up with a torch. You're not going to re-use it.

hahaha yeah, I've never had that exact pleasure but I sure have let the odd hub slip when pressing out front wheel drive bearings from SAABs

Can't imagine steel capped boots would be much help if a crank was involved!

Ok Joe,
Are you doing this motor work one handed? I thought you had been banned from the shed whilst the digit was in recovery mode?

Stephen