fbekholden.com

I’ve heard that Greg, about the lower splash guards, which I run on my car. I also have trouble getting it to run over 70, with no shroud. This time of year I need to block off 2/3 of the radiator surface to get it to run in my target range of 80-90C. It just goes to show how many variables there are.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I'm thinking that the difference here is that I have an aircon condenser blocking the air flow a fair bit.

Trip to Gundagai and back today to get my certification paperwork updated by the engineer to reflect change to Celica 5 speed.
Stopped at (very unsettlingly named) Bookham for a rest. Ute kept up with the best of them on the Hume.

Errol62 wrote: Thu Aug 08, 2024 2:04 pm I also have trouble getting it to run over 70, with no shroud. This time of year I need to block off 2/3 of the radiator surface to get it to run in my target range of 80-90C.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I just read this and it seems to me that for this to happen thermostat is not controlling temperature for whatever reason (assuming of course the temp readings are true).

Looks very tidy Brett Can you remind me what size rims you have 13” or 14” and the width? Also the tyre size please. Just curious as I am still fiddling with my jelly bean mags. Two of them won’t hold air

Stephen

Hi Stephen.
6 inch wheel width and 13 inch diameter. Tyres are 185 80 13's. No idea what the offset is, but it works
I have tubes in mine as they all leaked air too.

My tyre guy said the old rims get porous and leak air, so he had me give the insides three coats of Epotec. Seems to have worked, in as much as they don’t appear to leak.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Brett027 wrote:

Errol62 wrote: Thu Aug 08, 2024 2:04 pm I also have trouble getting it to run over 70, with no shroud. This time of year I need to block off 2/3 of the radiator surface to get it to run in my target range of 80-90C.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I just read this and it seems to me that for this to happen thermostat is not controlling temperature for whatever reason (assuming of course the temp readings are true).

I’ve tried a couple of different thermostats, as well as testing them on the stove with a thermometer, with the same result. I have the same dual gauge you recommended, and it is in the lower thermostat housing. I’ve more or less given up wondering at the cause.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Hi Clay. If the thermostat is closed and the water circuit is closed, there is no alternative to the water in the head getting hot because it can't move. If it isn't getting hot, then either the thermostat is not closing the circuit (you have tested that it is closed and opening at temp, so not that) or the water flow is bypassing the thermostat. Most likely (if the thermostat housing is correct) you have some heater/manifold hose/s that are allowing water to bypass the thermostat.

My money is on hysteresis. Thermostat opens at say 70C, but won't close until say 62C.

Cheers,
Harv

My money is on either incorrect or faulty thermostat housing or some unusual hose plumbing- given Clay says he has checked 2 thermostats already. Presumably in a saucepan of water on the stove with a thermometer.

The only bypass is the barbs on the side of the lower housing, which run the heater, but the heater is controlled by a ball cock, which is usually off, besides, I don’t think the heater cor is big enough or gets enough air flow to have a significant effect.

I put it down to the combination of a big radiator with very good air flow, 3.625 bore HP block (thick cylinder walls), and thermostat somehow bypassing.

It’s more of a curiosity than a bother and doesn’t seem to adversely affect performance or economy. I may try yet another thermostat, and maybe even different plugs, when I’m not too preoccupied with everything else. Thanks both for your suggestions and input so far.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Barney is looking great Brett

Thanks Neil. He is going nicely as well. Engineer and I chewed over the Prius power steering upgrade. He came up with an interesting option that I would never have thought possible. And then made me promise not to tell.

Errol62 wrote: Fri Mar 07, 2025 1:31 pm The only bypass is the barbs on the side of the lower housing, which run the heater, but the heater is controlled by a ball cock, which is usually off, besides, I don’t think the heater cor is big enough or gets enough air flow to have a significant effect.

I put it down to the combination of a big radiator with very good air flow, 3.625 bore HP block (thick cylinder walls), and thermostat somehow bypassing.

FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I reckon water is bypassing your thermostat too. Not thinking that the heater core is cooling the water, but rather letting water flow around the thermostat into the top radiator hose in sufficient quantity to keep it cool. Something is allowing water to flow into the top radiator hose that otherwise should be held up until thermostat allows it to move.
The radiator size, air flow and block dont control too cold temps- only the thermostat does that job.