EK Wagon project - Total rebuild

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 1:14 pm

Thanks guys, Yes your right the HR's just had bolts.
That also explains why I had to slightly bend the brake lines to get the U bolts on. It seemed strange at the time that it didn't have enough space.

HR manual images attached. Exploded and installed. (Aren't pictures great)

I can't find any mention in the manuals on how to remove the bump stops from the EK frame.
Does it need to be done ?
Can't I have both upper and lower ones ?
If not, is it pushed in, screwed in, attached at the top ?

Thanks DevilRod I'll check him out, should be able to freight to Brisbane.

Couldn't find any mention of U bolts being used on HR vans and utes but the manual did say that the 2104 and 2106 had 2.25in wide rear brakes and others had 1.75in. The lining was also slightly longer.

I think I'll just go with the bolts, that was how it was designed. Will probably need some new rubber isolators.
Measurements for the bolts would be great, then I can get that part stable. Thanks.

Thommo · Post by **Thommo** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 1:22 pm

Gday Finny
The EK bump stops are bolted to the frame and are easily removed.
The HR stops on the diff are also easily removed, one set should come off.
With both sets in you reduce the amount of suspension travel avaliable.
It doesn't matter which set you remove, I would lose the HR ones
and keep the EK set bolted to the frame, just so the bolt holes are blocked/filled.

Cheers
Jeff

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:49 pm

Thanks Devilrod, I have requested a cable from Autocables.

Have now got the rear end properly attached.
As per the normal process that I follow ?????? It took forever, and I did it 3 times.
U bolts from EK are no good, but I had the bolts from the HR !!!!

Why then did they appear to be too small.

Because they were off a sedan and I was putting them onto a Wagon. 4 leaf springs on the sedan vs 6 left springs on the wagon. Have to make a special trip to a specialist bolt supplier to get longer bolts. Finally on and rock solid.

Still no brakes, the flexible hose for the rear end is also too short. So back to the brake shop to get another special hose made up.

Got the old handbrake cable off fairly easily. A WINNER AT LAST

Hopefully can get a new one made to suit.

Swapped over the carby (with one that was running perfectly) to hopefully get rid of the issue with not reving that well. Couldn't even get it to idle and flattened a fully charged battery trying to get it running. Failed on this one. Put the old one back on and I'm running again. It actually seems to be running better, maybe cutting up a new gasket helped.

Aussie Bob · Post by **Aussie Bob** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:57 am

Hey Finny, it's coming along great!

If you could find some time to update your spread sheet on the ID Plates, that would be great. If you can't you could forward it to me & I can keep it updated for you.

Steve

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:18 pm

Was going to instal the brake booster yesterday, but then remembered that I needed to remove the Check valve from the master cylinder.

Unbolted it from the car, pulled it apart (Even with the special pliers and a small screwdriver, it took a while to get the ring clip off, would have been very painful without it

) and removed the check valve (last metal item on the right in the photo)
When I put it back together I also put the spare thin washer (third item from the left) in where the Check valve was. Otherwise the spring would have been pushing directly onto the rubber washer inside the cylinder. Can anyone advise if this is a problem ?

The original cylinder had corrosion on a few of the parts, so I also pulled apart the spare cylinder and used the good parts when putting it back together.

Hopefully now ready to put the booster in. Don't have a bracket, however I'm thinking of using 3 pieces of angleline. Anyone have any other options.?

And finally, I am going to mount the booster under the bonnet. I have seen them up close to the master, right at the front beside the radiator, and places in between. Is one position better than another ?

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:03 pm

New EK / HR hand brake cable arrived by courier today.

It was a perfect fit. Only had to do it once.

All the new flexible hoses are on, just need to lock everything down.

Thought I'd do a final clean up of all the rear brake components.

Only need a brake booster bracket and the brakes should be done.

V8EK4us · Post by **V8EK4us** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:10 pm

Looking good Finny

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:42 pm

Thanks.

Don't think I'll be picking a race with you though.

I was also hoping to have her finished for the 2009 nationals. But I'm not feeling too confident at the moment. Was also hoping to drive down.

TICK............... TOCK.....................

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:02 pm

More progress on the brakes today.

Had to make up brackets to attach the booster to the frame. Ended up a very good fit.
One of the new metal brake pipes was too long but was able to move it to the side so it's out of the way.

Both rear brakes are now adjusted up correctly.
Handbrake is attached, and brackets in place.
Rear flexible hose doesn't go all the way in. The copper washer is therefore loose ?

Not sure why.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:13 pm

Two new challenges identified.

Steering hard right = Great

Steering hard left = The steering arm hits on the sump

I thought this was only an issue if you had a Red motor installed ?
Picture shows it in the straight ahead position, will add another picture later showing how it hits.

2nd challenge,
Can you see anything wrong in this picture. ?

Something else to pull apart and replace.

bigalhusband · Post by **bigalhusband** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 6:28 pm

nick down to Repco and pick up a new one they arnt all that dear. I tried to put kits through them but they still leaked I have found that new works as you can take it back if its shit they wont take rebuild kits back though

spyder6052 · Post by **spyder6052** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:20 pm

i found that if you get them bored and resleaved(stainless sleave) that they work the best

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:14 am

Thanks for the ideas guys.

OK. Both master cylinders out.

Have decided I'm going to clean everything up and get the wires tidied up, was looking very messy.

Made some calls this morning regarding the brakes.
Pulled the brake connection block off the rear end. It has a seat at the bottom where the flexible hose goes in, so doesn't need a copper washer.
All back together and tighted up.

Measured up the front end and am still confused as to why the brake hoses needed to be different sizes. The front end is level and evenly positioned at the front and equal distance at the sides. ?

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:21 am

The Sump however definately hits.

The Motor is out of a EJ, does that make any difference.

Probably needs to be back about another inch to clear.
Photos of Right lock, Straight and Left lock.
Is this normal with a Grey motor and a HR front end ??????
Anyone know what's needed ???????

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:16 am

There was some talk of this same problem either on here or FE/FC forum.

From memory it is because the HR steering rod is "kinked" back as opposed to the original being straight.But I think the HR steering will still fit?? as I'm sure there are cars on this forum using HR steering on HR front end.

Also, have you aligned the wheels yet?

Because if it is hitting on one lock and not the other that may indicate that everything is not adjusted ( wheel alignment wise) to how it should be.

EJ sumps are the same as other grey motor sumps and are pretty much identical as well in shape to red motor EH sumps that are used to fit red 6 to HR front ended car ( except EH sump is about 1 inch longer ).