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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:11 pm
by FB MAD
I spoke to Rat's engineer 2 weeks ago. He didn't want a chassis kit for 253 but did want one for a 308 .From speaking to a number of engineers lately there is a great deal of varience to what each one requires.
Some of them I'm sure run their business from nursing homes.And as I've said on another post recently, the modification requirements that a few of them wanted semed to indicate that senility was a prerequisite for admission to an engineering society.
Rat's engineer was the only one that appeared to have some degree of common sense and a no bullshit approach to modification requirements.I'm sticking with him for my V8 EK project.
Cam, before you do anything you must speak to an approved engineer in your state and if you aren't happy with the mods he requires then move on to another engineer and see what he says.It definately pays to shop around.Also ring your states rego authorities as each states requirements also vary.
You can change the ratio in the standard rear end.All red motor COURSE SPLINE diff centres will fit straight in to the grey motor axle housing.The grey motor axles will fit in as is also.3.08 and 2.78 centres have two longer bolts that you will have to use to fit them but they bolt straight in otherwise.Only other mod required is to change rear tailshaft uni joint ot a red motor uni joint ( easy to do ) and use the red motor uni joint bolts and nuts.
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:39 pm
by camstuart52
AAAAHHHHHh I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO!!!
I know what i want.....but would have to do it slowly.........I need opinions and advice!!!
As you may know from reading my story here, I have an issue with the lower control arm bolt hex head being snapped off and the thread now stuck!!!
I cant drive the car and I am close to having enough.......i want to V8 the ute but know that this will cost money and changes have to be made to the car!!! What i want to know firstly is what really is involved, yes i have read other posts and tried to piece bits together, but hope to have a bit more info provided. It will be a carby engine and from what people have told me, I should go the 308 over the 253!!!
Now secondly i just want all thoughts on the ways of going about it!!! I know as always i ask a lot...

so i really do look forward to seeing the response!!!
Cam
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:29 pm
by FB MAD
G'day Cam,
There are people here that can tell you what you need for a V8 in an FB or EK in THEIR respective states but you MUST talk to an approved engineer in YOUR state firstly.
They and their respective authorised engineer signatories can make or break a project.
The states rego authorities do differ in what they will and will not allow and from recent engineer shopping in my state ( N.S.W ) the modification requirements can even differ from engineer to engineer ranging from sensible mods to some quite bizarre requirements.
Look up the Tassie rego mobs Technical advisary section and give them a call.They should be able to give you contact numbers for their recognised engineer signatories.Give the engineer a call and tell him what you have to start with and what engine you want to fit in it.They should be able to say you will need to do this,this,this and this.
Write down what they require in the way of mods and get a quote on their price for an engineer certificate as prices do vary.
If there is more than one approved engineer, give 'em all a call and write down what they say.Go through and pick the one that you would be happy to stick with.Consult with him through the course of the modifying process as it could save you lots of time,money and stuffing around.
Hope that is of help.
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:14 pm
by Devilrod
Yep FBMAD is 100% correct. As a few of us have said all along, find an engineer first. Talk to a few even then decide which one will be best suited to helping you achieve what you want.
Sometimes having to do things slowly is a good way to tackle a project. So long as its done once and right does it really matter how long it takes?
Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:06 pm
by camstuart52
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA......aaaahhhhh.......I seem to have gotten the bolt out........cant win when i want to and now i have won when i sort of dont want to
So I will be ordering a new lower control arm bolt assembly so i can start putting the car back together!!! Really want to drive it again!!! So it will hopefully be lowered 2 inches finally

in maximum 2 weeks.......and i think i'm going to spray the rims red and lose the hub caps!!!
But anyways I will keep you posted..........V8 will have to wait

Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 3:55 pm
by camstuart52
Well I have got the front springs now in and it looks a lot better!!! But first drive out and about, something else happens!!!
There seems to be a very loud wining noise when the car is running at around 40mph and up!!! Gets loud and really doesnt sound healthy at all!!!
I'm thinking transmission.......would this be right??? Terrible sound!!!
The 138 is running like a dream though.....hahahahahaha

Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:34 pm
by camstuart52
Any ideas??? Anyone??? Anything???
If it is the gear box..........i should be able to find a replacement quite easy yeah??? What are the options???
Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:44 pm
by Harko
Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:50 pm
by camstuart52
Hahahahaha I wish that was all it would take, though i would probably still be able to hear her!!!
It makes the noise on acceleration and the opposite, probably louder slowing.......I did have a diff make a similar noise once but no where near that loud, and it sounds closer than that!!!
Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 12:14 am
by spyder6052
might sound a bit stupid but have you checked the oil level in the gearbox?
my blue ek was loud in first and second but quiet in top and topping up the gearbox fixed the problem
Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 3:56 pm
by FB MAD

Harko
Hard to diagnose a problem without hearing it but does the noise happen in all gears? or only first and second ?
If first and second it could the case hardening worn off the cluster gear in the box and if so only a new one will fix it.
My box in my old bomb is noisy in 1st and 2nd.I'm just going to replace with a better condition box to save finding a new cluster gear and rebuild parts.
However there could also be a multitude of other causes other than what I've said.
Need a bit more info really to help further.
Certainly a good starting point as Spyder suggests is to check the oil level.
Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:52 pm
by camstuart52
There has always been a little noise with first and second and I just assumed that was general wear, which by the sound of it is correct, but once i hit 3rd it really yells and just gets louder as speed goes up, then when i decelerate it REALLY yells!!!
I was just going to try and find a replacement box, was thinking about floor shift but cant decide as I like it on the tree also

I never can decide on anything!!!
Where would i get a replacement and what are the options with the replacement, not involving to much work, otherwise i would just go HR Front and a red with a supra 5 speed....but once again i like the old school fact of the 138!!! I annoy myself at times

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:41 pm
by Harko
Hmmm could be a massive backlash in the diff and wear...
put the car in gear and rock it back and forth ,Any klunks ? are they from the diff or box ?
Sounds linke diff because it has more load in third 1:1 ratio ,and the way the gears angle it creates more noise on the backlash ,
Anyway as they say its hard to diagnose over the phone

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:26 pm
by camstuart52
Harko....you were right!!!
The diff is F@#%ED....and the transmission is on the way out!!!
So i now need to decide what to do......and i just want some opinions on what you think i should do.....yes I KNOW it is up to what i want.....but i just want to know if you think i should put a red motor in and change the gear box.....if this is the case, do i change the rear to suit, say HR rear?
Or should i stick with what i have a replace the dead areas?
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:43 pm
by FB MAD
Leave original FB rear in as is and wack a red motor diff centre in.For a grey powered car either a 3.55 centre or a 3.36 centre would do.
If going red motor go 3.36,3.08 or even 2.78 if you like highway economy.
If your grey crashbox has had it get another one and wack a red motor in unless you want to stay with the original factory look.
Can fit 138 red and 149 red here in NSW without engineer approval but Tassie laws may differ.
Above advice is the easiest of mods to do without too much time/cost and modifications required and potential rego problems.
4 or 5 speed or auto conversion is next step up in modifications.
If you want a bigger capacity red then you would most likely need a brake upgrade and other additional mods and engineer approval.
But again, and like I've said before, the rego authority in Tassie and/or engineer have the final say on what they will or won't allow.
My thoughts,