fbekholden.com

Great info

Hi folk,
I have the official Dulux GMH colour chart for FB/EK's from 1960 to 1962... showing what colours were available for each model in each year... including Duco and Dulon..

Sadly, I don't work with Photo bucket any more.. and I believe the chart file is a .jpg...

I'll try and attach it here.. if not, if someone could be so kind as to tell me how to post a pic directly from my files - I will post it in this section.

here goes... nup, wouldn't up load..

If we can't get access to my files, I can copy/paste - but fear it might come out messy...

frats,
Rosco

Ok, found another way in (via "attachments" at the bottom of the new post box.... hope it works..

frats,
Rosco

It does thanks rosco.

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Although they do only appear to be the Dulon colours. I'm not normally that sharp st this time of day but catching a flight up to cairns this morning means I'm up early.
Cheers
Clay
If I'm wrong I'll blame the early hour.

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Wedgwood blue is in there 0115 for my 1960 fb Ute and clinker grey you beauty. My paint man is PPG and mixes from these numbers but I think he has most of the Holden ones by memory.

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Thanks Tim. I'll confer with the man when the time comes and take the dash in.

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Errol62 wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 4:23 am Although they do only appear to be the Dulon colours.

No, Clay - at the top of the sheet, it shows the different three digit prefix numbers for both Duco and Dulon... stating that no other lacquer should be applied over Dulon...

The second string of numbers only are shown against their colors... they can either be mixed up in Duco or Dulon.
Mine are all 585 - solid colour Dulon.

frats,
Rosco

Ok got it I think. Damn tricky these FBs. EKs are a lot more familiar to me. So if I interpret correctly you can get the 1960 colours in duco or Dulon. At least you can also get the duco colours in dulon, but only for a full respray of course. See, they're tricky.

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I don't know if Duco is still available, Clay... I know Dulon is - (Dulux acrylic), but it costs an arm and a leg for the original Dulux paint.

I found some paint I had mixed up by "All Cars Paint Supplies" here in outer east of Melbourne.... they used "Standox".. west German.. and were still selling it with the "lead" additive (illegal)... it was magic paint.. and I bought 4 litres of it mixed up in Snowcrest White for my roof.... nearly all of it went on the roof to get the finish I wanted.. mixed 2 paint/3 thinners... there's an awful lot of paint on my roof.

For the Tartan Turquoise, they mixed up "Aultracryl"... which I still have a lot left over.. I bought 7 litres of it...
Sadly, it is nowhere near as good as the Standox... the Aultracryl is very brittle - it doesn't take much to chip it.. no matter how good the keying to the primer is.... I regret now not having gone with Standox for the turquoise... but will continue to use it until I have all the car finished.. only the two right doors and bonnet to go... but, at the rate I'm getting it done - it will be for my 80th birthday when I'm finally finished....

I have now had a play with 2 pack (sprayed an aluminium boat with it) and fell in love almost straight away with the "one-shot" finish this paint affords.... down side, I damaged some of it dropping it down from a jack - and found out how brittle 2 pack is... and is so difficult to do spot repairs without hiding the blend..... learning.. learning ... learning..

I used a 2K primer under that 2 K top coats... and it is now my intention to have a go at using 2K primer under acrylic... this is what I want to add to my "paint tips" thread...

I haven't done it yet.. but will do so... I have to try this.

Main reason is that with acrylic primer.. it stays soft for a very long time underneath the acrylic top coats... and the intense work I do to block down the top coats to get that "mirror-plate" finish I love to achieve.... in time, I have found the acrylic primer to continue to fuse out and evaporate any thinners which were trapped before top-coating...
this will not happen with 2K primer.. the stuff goes rock solid and dry overnight... all that I believe I need do, is key it up sufficiently to have the acrylic lock into it... that's my plan.
Secondly, I note on some occasions - where I have used a plastic filler (I hate soft bog) to fill nicks and small fills - when the acrylic top coat has been applied over it - the plastic area stays "wet".. the thinners in the primer do not fuse into the primer below.. due to the plastic and fully cured nature of the plastic filler..
My intention, is to use 2K primer over the plastic filler... there will never be a wet spot that the thinners of acrylic top coats cause to do deep again.. which I have found them to do .. not always, but when using a "slow" thinner.. the period of time the wet paint stays on the primer... before the thinners evaporate... re-invigorates the paint underneath... and eventually, any areas with plastic filler in them cause "blotching" in the finished top coats....

I will add to my thread when I get off my derrierre and actually again make a start on this... but, it might not be for a little while yet...

So, in closing - yes, our dear old friend 585.. can still be mixed and purchased... how close they get to the original in any of the paint codes posted above... guess we'll have to wait until someone actually has some mixed up and lays it down in comparison..
My Tartan Turquoise in Aultracryl is slightly greener than the original 585.. but, it's only by half a "hue".... shows up under tungsten light - looks almost like black and white difference... but in daylight, you'd have to be pretty good to pick it on your own without being told..

frats,
Rosco (aka - the "novelist")

Pretty much what I’m doing with the ute. First filler, then epotec 2k etch, followed by ppg acrylic primer surfacer and top coat in wedgewood blue, mixed from the formula. We’ll see.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Ok - I now see what you are doing, Clay - I was going to go the other way.... 1K etch, 2K primer and over the top with acrylic.
My reason for 2K primer is that it will seal out any plastic under it.... the thinners in acrylic won't penetrate the 2K.. and with the 2K primer, if the build is heavy - it won't shrink later on - this is my understanding - right or wrong... we'll find out. I am yet to learn if acrylic will key and bond properly to 2K primer.. fingers crossed, it will... I'm not interested in a 2K top coat... I'm done with "brittle" paint.. good acrylic is just so forgiving...

frats,
Rosco

Hi Rosco,

Heaps of different ways of doing it.

I have done epoxy primer on bare metal then hi fill primer sprayed wet on wet (within the curing window of the epoxy).

I then use basecoat and clear to finish. Just so you know the basecoat is acrylic and just needs to be keyed to hold on to the hi fill.

Greg

Thanks Greg,
yes - there are probably umpteen ways of getting the result each of us want....
My plan is to go with 1K etch (I love protec from PPG) then 2K primer and any plastic filler needed, then finish with 2K primer before top coating in acrylic.
I may have to find a "tying" product to mate up the 2K with acrylic yet..... will refer to my PDS on 2K primer... vaguely recall it mentioning that it can be topcoated with a number of differing systems... hoping acrylic is one of them... still looking for PDS on acrylic - what it can be applied over, though... will update to the forum when I get my hands on info needed...
thanks for your input - much appreciated.

frats,
Rosco