lowered

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 2:46 pm

The old piece of excrement is going along well , thanks Trev

Wait 'till I get hold of that bloody little sh#t ,he'll be bloody sorry that he called...... ooops..... I mean......ummmmmm... son will be told it's not nice to call Dad's car awfull names like that

The old bomb's running along fine Trev, still gets heaps of looks and thumbs up from people and stacks of people have offered to buy it ( they probably feel sorry for me and think I need the money for a better car, little do they know that I drive it because I want to, not because I have to

).

Still looks the same as it was at Yamba,with its original dents and chaulky paint..... love it the way it is.... as found, "barn find" as it's called.

Happy with its ride height Trev but as you would also know,there is a penalty to pay for a nice ride height and thats when you hit them sometimes unavoidable bloody potholes

It's got a pair of old Armstrong front shocks that were on the car when I bought it but I although they work OK, I don't think they are heavy duty ones so might shout the old bomb a pair of new heavy duty ones for xmas.That'll help with the ride!!

Don't want to spend too much on it..... I'm still proud of the fact that it cost me more to register the car than it took me to get it to a driveable, registerable condition

And just back to Aussy Edo's subject re lowering.............

As per above mentioned ramble from me

would suggest a good pair of heavy duty front shocks to use in conjunction with the heavy duty lowered kingpin front springs.

Cheers,

Terry.

Aussy Edo · Post by **Aussy Edo** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:32 pm

Hey Trev,do you have some pics of how your car sits?,do you have some to karsten?,also what size rims and tyres have you got on yours karsten?ime thinkin if 15's are gunna be 2 much trouble i might just stick with the 13's as ive been told that too big of wheels with my stock motor and hydra box it will never get goin from a standing start.Any one

Trev · Post by **Trev** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:55 pm

Here you go Edo.

FBeing · Post by **FBeing** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:19 pm

I apologise to those people that don't like ebay links but this may be of assistance Edo???

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Volvo-steel-15-i ... 240%3A1318

FBeing · Post by **FBeing** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:22 pm

PS I don't have any interest in the sale of these rims!

Aussy Edo · Post by **Aussy Edo** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:36 pm

thanx fbeing,that is just what ime after,i will watch that auction and see what happens.Hey Trev,that is a nice ride hieght,u say u still had to chop your coils,how much higher did the front sit with the new springs un cut?does your wheel scrub out when you turn?and what are your 14 inch rims off?,sorry about all the questions,just makin sure i know exactly what i need to know before i start.

Did you buy those lowering blocks for the leafies or did you make em?,sorry couldnt help myself sneakin that last question in

EDO,

Trev · Post by **Trev** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:08 pm

The front was about 1 inch higher with the heavy duty pedders lowered units, the wheels don't scrub when driving but when I do a 3 point turn or give it a bit of hard lock backing into a driveway it will scrub a bit.
The wheels are HT HG model 14 x 5's with the off set changed to HR disc depth to clear the inner tyrod ends.
I bought 1.5 inch blocks then flipped one of the leafs over to get it nice and low.
Ask away Edo, thats what the forum is all about, it's where I got all the info on how to do my car, there is blokes on here that have been doing this stuff to FB's and EK's for a very long time (isn't that rite ratbox

), I'm just a beginner too, Trev

.

Devilrod · Post by **Devilrod** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:57 pm

But if you don't mind a bit of scraping......cut a few more off the front

One thing Trev didn't mention which he has done is add an extra leaf into the spring packs on the rear to improve the ride. Something I'll be doing thanks to him.

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:12 pm

if you want to see my car you mite have to go into my fb ek back some pages and find me as i suck at computer stuff

i wouldnt worry about the hydro with bigger wheels mate ,, there tough as,, ive got grey power with a hydro turning a 3.08 diff centre in ek diff,,,and i love it awsome on the hyway and you get more range from each gear ,, the greys lend themselves to the job as they are fairly torquey moter that pull well at lower engine speeds

maybe trev or someone can do a link thing?

Trev · Post by **Trev** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:22 pm

The ute? Karsten?

Aussy Edo · Post by **Aussy Edo** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:31 am

HI Fellaz,
I looked into some lowered King springs the other day and i can get them in low=30mm,super low=50mm and ultra low=75mm.I was thinkin ultra low caus there is plenty of room there between front tyre and guard but it looks like there isnt as much room between bump stop and frame,got to have a closer look and do some measurements but i would like to try and get away with not cutting the bump stop down.they are about 170 bucks but i have only got one quote so far.any thoughts boys?
EDO

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:49 am

Mine is lowered 3 inch ( 75 mm ) with kingpin front end.

If you go 3 inch ( 75 mm ) lowered on kingpin front you won't have any suspension, it will be sitting on the bump rubbers.

You'll have to cut the bump rubbers in half and try and shape the bump rubber into a cone shape to get some progressive bump so that when the control arm bumps on the rubber there is less of a bang than would happen if you just cut straight across and leave the bump rubber face flat.

I shaped mine into a cone shape ( after shortening ) with my bench grinder.Doesn't take long but the burning rubber stinks

.

I did this and have about an inch of suspension travel now.

I'm using standard 13 inch rims and have no guard scrub issues at any suspension travel point and on any lock to lock turn.I say standard 14 inch HT/HG rims would also suffice with no scrub but any larger rim/rim offset and you might start to encouter some probs at 3 inch lowered.

You'll have to adjust the upper outer pivot pin/camber adjusting bolt to its maximum range of negative camber ie:- top of wheel in at the top as close to the engine as possible.My camber angle is approx 0 to 1/2 degree negative at most even with camber bolt at its maximum adjustment range.

I used about 1/2 degree castor and approx 1/4 inch toe-in and my tyres don't scrub at all and I can let go of the wheel and the car steers straight ahead.

Believe it or not I did my own wheel alignment in the shed and just by eye with exception of toe-in which my 13 yr old son helped me do with a tape measure.

If you don't want to cut the bump rubber and want to maintain some suspension travel I would use the 50 mm lowered springs.

Hope this info helps your choice.

Aussy Edo · Post by **Aussy Edo** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:36 pm

thanx FB,
All startin to come together now,i will wait till after i get my rwc and then prob lean towards the 50mm low springs.

EDO

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:45 am

theres the sedan ones in another post somewhere to trev

Post by **Blacky** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:58 am

Have heard some good things about this bloke -philsdiffsnsuspension@hotmail.com he makes a front end for early holdens, might be worth sending him an email.