Match i found the oxy worked a treat not sure why i didnt think of it before trashing 2 vent window .. the shaft has flat spot in each side for the washer and travel control thingy to fit into ..
i would be suprised if the nut was flattened but if it is use the 2nd sugestion mention here cut the nut long ways up the shaft ..
Dave
EK front 1/4 window removal
Hi all,
this little gem comes up from time to time - and it will again.....
Just by location - this design was doomed to present itself - eventually....
I was fortunate with mine - but do have some spares I have had to correct.
I, too found the RP-7, WD-40 and penetrene reluctant to effect removal.
I do not have access to heat and was forced to attack the nut using force - other nuts/bolts and fittings I have learned will submit in failure to an enthusiastic subjecation....... sadly to the destruction of the component.....
It has taken me many years to educate myself that if something is not going to "let go" at a reasonable attempt - it is screaming at you to stop......
Move away from the square and consider an alternative - in this case, I went with grinding away a line on each side of the nut using a Dremel or small rotary tool with a cutting wheel - starting at 1" in diameter.
Before reaching the thread of the shaft, I was able to "open" up the nut and unscrew it.
Once removed, I re-tapped the thread of the shaft and fitted a zinc plated nut - do not use stainless here - you will cause the shaft to become sacrificial....
I would also suggest coating the shaft with marine grease - as well as the washers and spring. - if you want to go one further - fit a shield over the assembled components to deflect any water passing through the pivot in the rubber.......
I believe Richard to be absolutely correct in believing the shaft on his was "staked" - you can of course fit a "nyloc" - or even a lock-nut.
I suppose it timely to suggest fitting the assembly and adjusting the friction required prior to fitting the membrane and lining of the door.......?
It is more likely the assembly will "loosen" rather than tighten - so if there is margin to be created - I would opt for a slighty "firm" friction.....
hope this helps...
frats,
Rosco
this little gem comes up from time to time - and it will again.....
Just by location - this design was doomed to present itself - eventually....
I was fortunate with mine - but do have some spares I have had to correct.
I, too found the RP-7, WD-40 and penetrene reluctant to effect removal.
I do not have access to heat and was forced to attack the nut using force - other nuts/bolts and fittings I have learned will submit in failure to an enthusiastic subjecation....... sadly to the destruction of the component.....
It has taken me many years to educate myself that if something is not going to "let go" at a reasonable attempt - it is screaming at you to stop......
Move away from the square and consider an alternative - in this case, I went with grinding away a line on each side of the nut using a Dremel or small rotary tool with a cutting wheel - starting at 1" in diameter.
Before reaching the thread of the shaft, I was able to "open" up the nut and unscrew it.
Once removed, I re-tapped the thread of the shaft and fitted a zinc plated nut - do not use stainless here - you will cause the shaft to become sacrificial....
I would also suggest coating the shaft with marine grease - as well as the washers and spring. - if you want to go one further - fit a shield over the assembled components to deflect any water passing through the pivot in the rubber.......
I believe Richard to be absolutely correct in believing the shaft on his was "staked" - you can of course fit a "nyloc" - or even a lock-nut.
I suppose it timely to suggest fitting the assembly and adjusting the friction required prior to fitting the membrane and lining of the door.......?
It is more likely the assembly will "loosen" rather than tighten - so if there is margin to be created - I would opt for a slighty "firm" friction.....
hope this helps...
frats,
Rosco