There is no physical earth wire for the lights mate , they ground thru the light housing.
As for the brake light problem ... by pass your pedal switch. Disconnect/cut the cable coming into the switch and join it to the cable leave the switch .. heading towards the driver scuff plate. Just twist it as your testing.
Get a mate around to stare at the rear ... if the brake light comes on its the switch... I had this happen to me on the sedan. They just shit themselves sometimes ... replacement from repco. Then just adjust the switch position to the pedal.
Tail light troubles
Brake lights
Hi J,
you've probably got this sorted by now - I haven't been on all week - new work hours, sorry....................
OK, just a short reply......
Your tail lights are not fused from the fuse block but are protected by the vibrating bi-metal plate on the light switch - another reason your headlights will flicker if the tails start shorting.......
Wiring for the tail lights is the black wire in the loom and through connectors to both tail lights - it also includes the license plate lamps.
The reverse lights are fused through the back up fuse, which also includes turn signals and heater (fan).
Your brake lights are fused - from the fuse block - and as Theo states are like connected to the same fuse as the dome (or interior) light and the radio.
The lead (wire) to the brake lights is yellow.
The supply to the brake light switch is the orange wire from the fuse block - it runs through the loom to the brake light switch and from there is a yellow wire through the loom along the right side of the interior (under the scuff plates) up under the rear right wheel-arch cover and into the luggage compartment. It enters an "S" connector about half way along under the fin the passes through the bakelite connector at the brake/tail light - it also passes along under the rear of the end panel to the l/hs brake light.
The connector cannot be fitted incorrectly - the lugs or tangs on the connector will only go in one way - you will notice these are "angled" to prevent the wrong filament being used for each application.
- Just one word of caution when doing what I suggest - prior to removing the connectors to the brake/tail light assemblies - take out the stop-dome fuse - for if you touch the connector to the tail assembly on the way out or back in with either the tails or brake lights on - you'll blow the fuse....... save you 20 cents each time.......
To source the problem, I would suggest using a test lamp - a 12v bulb with two leads to it - for the purpose of testing the brake light circuit - somewhere we will always have one lead connected to the body - make sure it is a good connection to shiny steel or screw etc.
We are looking for power. The fact that your tail lamps are working tells us that you have earth.
This is the basis of a DC system - power and earth - or positive and negative, if you like.........
Start at the fuse block - your brake light circuit is "unswitched" - that is, it always has power on to it when a good fuse is fitted and battery connected. Test your lamp on both sides of the fuse (don't laugh, I have had fuses look intact yet had them fail by the filament being broken away from the inside of the fuse cap).
A quick and easy way of keeping the switch "on" is to pack something between the switch button and the pedal to simulate it being applied - don't forget to remove it when finished.
If you back the car up to something which will reflect your tail lights - the brake lights will show up even better being of a higher wattage.
With this switch "packed", start your tests by checking for power at each location from the supply (fuse) through all leads and connectors until you reach the brake lamp bulbs - do NOT assume anything - it is possible you have two blown bulbs.
Do not be fooled into believing the physical operation (clicking) of the brake lamp switch proves anything - it may "click" but contact may not be happening - check with your test lamp that power is getting through the switch.
Also understand J, that the whole brake lamp circuit from the switch to the lamps depends on just one yellow wire - they are approaching 50 years old and you may very well find that the wire has suffered some mechanical failure anywhere along its path.
If you find that you have power to the bulb, it may be that the bulb socket is not earthing properly - I doubt this to be the cause as the brake lamp shares a common "earth" with your tail lamps which you state are working fine. You may have corrosion of the contacts - it would be co-incidental to have both in such a state, but possible - I might point out that these are not "Christmas Tree" lights - that is, one does not rely on the other working. They will work independently of each other.
Those (S) connectors and fitted wire ends (terminals) are very susceptible to corrosion - if you find the lamps illuminate when you wiggle them - pull them apart and give the a jolly good clean up with some fine emery.
Hope some of this helps,
let me know if you don't get any joy from doing these tests and I'll work on some more...................
frats,
Rosco
you've probably got this sorted by now - I haven't been on all week - new work hours, sorry....................
OK, just a short reply......
Your tail lights are not fused from the fuse block but are protected by the vibrating bi-metal plate on the light switch - another reason your headlights will flicker if the tails start shorting.......
Wiring for the tail lights is the black wire in the loom and through connectors to both tail lights - it also includes the license plate lamps.
The reverse lights are fused through the back up fuse, which also includes turn signals and heater (fan).
Your brake lights are fused - from the fuse block - and as Theo states are like connected to the same fuse as the dome (or interior) light and the radio.
The lead (wire) to the brake lights is yellow.
The supply to the brake light switch is the orange wire from the fuse block - it runs through the loom to the brake light switch and from there is a yellow wire through the loom along the right side of the interior (under the scuff plates) up under the rear right wheel-arch cover and into the luggage compartment. It enters an "S" connector about half way along under the fin the passes through the bakelite connector at the brake/tail light - it also passes along under the rear of the end panel to the l/hs brake light.
The connector cannot be fitted incorrectly - the lugs or tangs on the connector will only go in one way - you will notice these are "angled" to prevent the wrong filament being used for each application.
- Just one word of caution when doing what I suggest - prior to removing the connectors to the brake/tail light assemblies - take out the stop-dome fuse - for if you touch the connector to the tail assembly on the way out or back in with either the tails or brake lights on - you'll blow the fuse....... save you 20 cents each time.......
To source the problem, I would suggest using a test lamp - a 12v bulb with two leads to it - for the purpose of testing the brake light circuit - somewhere we will always have one lead connected to the body - make sure it is a good connection to shiny steel or screw etc.
We are looking for power. The fact that your tail lamps are working tells us that you have earth.
This is the basis of a DC system - power and earth - or positive and negative, if you like.........
Start at the fuse block - your brake light circuit is "unswitched" - that is, it always has power on to it when a good fuse is fitted and battery connected. Test your lamp on both sides of the fuse (don't laugh, I have had fuses look intact yet had them fail by the filament being broken away from the inside of the fuse cap).
A quick and easy way of keeping the switch "on" is to pack something between the switch button and the pedal to simulate it being applied - don't forget to remove it when finished.
If you back the car up to something which will reflect your tail lights - the brake lights will show up even better being of a higher wattage.
With this switch "packed", start your tests by checking for power at each location from the supply (fuse) through all leads and connectors until you reach the brake lamp bulbs - do NOT assume anything - it is possible you have two blown bulbs.
Do not be fooled into believing the physical operation (clicking) of the brake lamp switch proves anything - it may "click" but contact may not be happening - check with your test lamp that power is getting through the switch.
Also understand J, that the whole brake lamp circuit from the switch to the lamps depends on just one yellow wire - they are approaching 50 years old and you may very well find that the wire has suffered some mechanical failure anywhere along its path.
If you find that you have power to the bulb, it may be that the bulb socket is not earthing properly - I doubt this to be the cause as the brake lamp shares a common "earth" with your tail lamps which you state are working fine. You may have corrosion of the contacts - it would be co-incidental to have both in such a state, but possible - I might point out that these are not "Christmas Tree" lights - that is, one does not rely on the other working. They will work independently of each other.
Those (S) connectors and fitted wire ends (terminals) are very susceptible to corrosion - if you find the lamps illuminate when you wiggle them - pull them apart and give the a jolly good clean up with some fine emery.
Hope some of this helps,
let me know if you don't get any joy from doing these tests and I'll work on some more...................
frats,
Rosco