thanks fellas i put the knife back in the draw now,
i think i can live with the guilt ,,,
as holden drivers are obviously a forgiveing lot,,
, id like to think it will be done and ready for yamba and its going pretty well but theres a lot to do yet,,,,did get four coates on doors and boot lid this week ,,,god ive drank some rum cans in the process though( it is christmas!!! )
and ive got most of the bits ,rubber kit ,twin carb manifold ,exstractors , paint, new upolsrtry is the last big exspence,but thats a while off will put some pics up when my cook uploads to the computer four me,,
cheers,,, karsten!!!!!
painting karstens ek
heres a couple pics of where im up to,,,have had front end out new
rubbers, brake lines striped engine bay ,,painted it,,had hyrdo re sealed new clutches serviced ect ect,,striped moter down and re gasketed checked cam crank bearings ect ,,was all good,, new seals and back togeather,, put it back in,, had to clean everything with degreaser bit by bit in a drum,man theres hours and hours of scrubing bolts and engine bits and all thats under the bonnet cleaned perfictly for painting one piece at a time also very time consumeing but its now coming together and looking pretty good
heres a few more for you rosco,,yamba is a mabye but its gettin close quick,,,im now going to give whole car 5 or6 coats blue then 1200 it and then the clear goes on hopefully in next 10 days then i can start putting it toghether still need inside car to be done and exuast system but bit like mal i can see a small light shining down the tunnel
rubbers, brake lines striped engine bay ,,painted it,,had hyrdo re sealed new clutches serviced ect ect,,striped moter down and re gasketed checked cam crank bearings ect ,,was all good,, new seals and back togeather,, put it back in,, had to clean everything with degreaser bit by bit in a drum,man theres hours and hours of scrubing bolts and engine bits and all thats under the bonnet cleaned perfictly for painting one piece at a time also very time consumeing but its now coming together and looking pretty good
heres a few more for you rosco,,yamba is a mabye but its gettin close quick,,,im now going to give whole car 5 or6 coats blue then 1200 it and then the clear goes on hopefully in next 10 days then i can start putting it toghether still need inside car to be done and exuast system but bit like mal i can see a small light shining down the tunnel
Last edited by karsten on Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
Thanks Karsten - someone has been busy.......
Love the tanks on the big A - bet that takes some coupons to see the line come up to full....................?
Just one thing to consider, and I'm sure you are much better proficient in this than I, if you are spraying solid colour in acrylic, I am of the humble opinion there is little to be gained in COB. It can cause issues later on for touch ups and acrylic COB is no where near as resilient as solid.......... if you are 2K, delete all above - I know nothing of it and fear it like Nick..............not that I believe he exists................
I find that solid acrylic can be "worked" to give a comparable finish and affords later "work" to be rewarded as the paint pulls down in years to come........
Forgive me Karsten, if I have overlooked you stating which system you have used............. with acrylic I find 1200, a very "stiff" pad and velvet soap as a lubricant will certainly flatten the finish prior to compounding.
You have done an enormous amount of work in this car - I hope you have enjoyed the creation - don't rush it, I think we were told 73 sleeps - piece by piece - and Karsten - you have two additional days most of us don't - we'll be closing the gap, most of which you are lucky enough to have already covered.............
love your work, very, very good chance we'll all get to geek over your efforts.......
frats,
Rosco
ps please, pretty please fit 1" rubber blanking plugs to those sub-frame out-rigger bolt holes - it was those which caused me to destroy my old girl and modify it - they permitted leaves, insects, and most of the washed/blown in nasties to get intot he sub-frame - I am surprised the General didn't factory fit them - or maybe they were and it was found turnover of sales increased because they were latter retro-removed...............I cringe every time I look into them on someone else's car and see "stuff" in there............
Love the tanks on the big A - bet that takes some coupons to see the line come up to full....................?
Just one thing to consider, and I'm sure you are much better proficient in this than I, if you are spraying solid colour in acrylic, I am of the humble opinion there is little to be gained in COB. It can cause issues later on for touch ups and acrylic COB is no where near as resilient as solid.......... if you are 2K, delete all above - I know nothing of it and fear it like Nick..............not that I believe he exists................
I find that solid acrylic can be "worked" to give a comparable finish and affords later "work" to be rewarded as the paint pulls down in years to come........
Forgive me Karsten, if I have overlooked you stating which system you have used............. with acrylic I find 1200, a very "stiff" pad and velvet soap as a lubricant will certainly flatten the finish prior to compounding.
You have done an enormous amount of work in this car - I hope you have enjoyed the creation - don't rush it, I think we were told 73 sleeps - piece by piece - and Karsten - you have two additional days most of us don't - we'll be closing the gap, most of which you are lucky enough to have already covered.............
love your work, very, very good chance we'll all get to geek over your efforts.......
frats,
Rosco
ps please, pretty please fit 1" rubber blanking plugs to those sub-frame out-rigger bolt holes - it was those which caused me to destroy my old girl and modify it - they permitted leaves, insects, and most of the washed/blown in nasties to get intot he sub-frame - I am surprised the General didn't factory fit them - or maybe they were and it was found turnover of sales increased because they were latter retro-removed...............I cringe every time I look into them on someone else's car and see "stuff" in there............
i do hear you rosco ,,i did a bit before i put six coats of blue ,on today,,
i mean the 1200,,
and i thought myself to give it a few more coats, and cut and polish the paint no clear,
cause it come up nice ,, 
i was grining at the gloss and smooth finish i got off the gun
thinking it would shine up nice
and that any tidy ups would be quick and easy with out clear ,,just need to keep some paint spare
,,thanks for your praise sometimes you put days of work in and wonder if it will all go back together eventually and get to cruz her again
i did notice a little oil leak at the rear main maybe ive done it wrong or maybe that cord style seal mite bed in
it is a bit disapointing any advice on these seals mite be handy any one done one on a grey
means id have to do a lot of work twice to fix it,,,but i wont be happy with oil leaks
the aktinson doesnt have any at 32 so i wont be happy untill its dry underneath
and yeah she holds 1000litres iin two tanks so 1500 dollars to fill it breaks your heart it only does work,, no joy rides anymore ,,, 
i remember going shoping it the truck often just cause i could ,,it does get a few looks,,
and a day of work burns half of that,, so my fuel usage is a depresing reallity for me,, cause i use so much we feel it way harder, than the averege fella useing a tank a week in the family car,, every time it goes up we have a amplafied dent in income in the thosands a month
and it takes 6 to 12 months for our pay rates to catch up but we work for less till then and by then its gone up that much more we never get a realistic rate to reflect our running costs ,, im lucky my truck is old but paid for i know fellas with a 6and a half grand monthly payment bugger that you would never stop driving and still go broke
think i was whingeing there sorry
hope i can still afford petrol to cruz the ek here and there when shes done
i mean the 1200,,
and i thought myself to give it a few more coats, and cut and polish the paint no clear,
cause it come up nice ,, i was grining at the gloss and smooth finish i got off the gun
thinking it would shine up nice and that any tidy ups would be quick and easy with out clear ,,just need to keep some paint spare
,,thanks for your praise sometimes you put days of work in and wonder if it will all go back together eventually and get to cruz her again
i did notice a little oil leak at the rear main maybe ive done it wrong or maybe that cord style seal mite bed init is a bit disapointing any advice on these seals mite be handy any one done one on a grey
means id have to do a lot of work twice to fix it,,,but i wont be happy with oil leaks
the aktinson doesnt have any at 32 so i wont be happy untill its dry underneath
and yeah she holds 1000litres iin two tanks so 1500 dollars to fill it breaks your heart it only does work,, no joy rides anymore ,,,
i remember going shoping it the truck often just cause i could ,,it does get a few looks,,
and a day of work burns half of that,, so my fuel usage is a depresing reallity for me,, cause i use so much we feel it way harder, than the averege fella useing a tank a week in the family car,, every time it goes up we have a amplafied dent in income in the thosands a month
and it takes 6 to 12 months for our pay rates to catch up but we work for less till then and by then its gone up that much more we never get a realistic rate to reflect our running costs ,, im lucky my truck is old but paid for i know fellas with a 6and a half grand monthly payment bugger that you would never stop driving and still go broke
think i was whingeing there sorry
hope i can still afford petrol to cruz the ek here and there when shes done
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
Thanks for the update Karsten - you've probably got enough on now to block down to flat with plenty left to kep it covered - I like to "overshoot" and block back until there isn't any shiny bits left in the finish - compounding up by hand after that usually gives me the result I aim for - I'm not good with beating yet, but learning...............
If you can get a gloss from the gun using acrylic, you're probably better than where I've got to - I can get it pretty shiny, but by the very nature of acrylick - it must be compounded to bring it to life................
One thing I do find Karsten, is that the longer I leave mine to harden and pull down (or flatten) as the thinners find their way out over a few months - the better the finish I can get - maybe it's something peculiar with the way I work it - but I am now very hesitant to "work" something I've sprayed in acrylic until months after - if it's needed for a show or run during that time, I just buff out the dust and overspray - works for me.
I have previously "worked" up the finish with 1200 and soap to a very good result, only to find 12 months later it has pulled down again and "fluttered" the surface finish......... another blocking back........... you said you'd put plenty on, so this will give you a number or options on how you want to work the finish for now................
One big mistake I have recently learned is where I block back between coats with too fine a paper - I now block between coats with 600 sometimes even 400 if it is in a "prone" area - where rocks and debris are likely to hit it - I have done quite a few panels where I have got a mirror finish but unfortunately they chip away at the slightest touch - by dripping down to a coarser paper and running the fist succeeding coat wet (or with slightly more thinners, sometimes a "hotter" one) I have had better results with damage - it's a balancing act - too "hot" and the substrate comes through with "sand scratch swelling" or any fillers show up as wet spots which take longer to flash off and leave a uneven finish - I love spraying acrylic - every "play" is a challenge - I don't think I've done one job yet where I have got exactly the result I was dreading......... acrylic is so forgiving - I have stuffed up many shoots yet been able to "work" the paint up to a brilliant result, compared to what came of my laying it down......
Yes, I can only reflect on what my brother-in-law has been complaining about concerning fuel and maintenance for his trucks - after nearly fifty years in the truck/excavator game, he has finally rid himself of any truck... just now sticking to the machines - his maintenance and road costs have been cut to half a day a week - he "hires" for transport and haulage, tippers etc - there is an abundance of willing blokes trying to keep their repayments in the black............. I don't think he'll ever buy another truck - much to my disappointment - his final was a Mack prior to Renault Macks and then whatever you want in one Macks - ie a real Mack - had a drive or two of it and fell in love............ didn't seem to have any stop under the throttle - just push it down he said if you need more - by golly that one had some grunt............. gone now..... and my chance of ever swapping cogs.......... best truck gearbox I have managed to find my way through........... bloody road-rangers drive me nuts.......... be all right if they were all the same...............
Makes an Aussie 4 speed like a sturmey archer, doesn't it......?
Keep going Karsten, enjoying your project - and bet you are too.......?
frats,
Rosco
If you can get a gloss from the gun using acrylic, you're probably better than where I've got to - I can get it pretty shiny, but by the very nature of acrylick - it must be compounded to bring it to life................
One thing I do find Karsten, is that the longer I leave mine to harden and pull down (or flatten) as the thinners find their way out over a few months - the better the finish I can get - maybe it's something peculiar with the way I work it - but I am now very hesitant to "work" something I've sprayed in acrylic until months after - if it's needed for a show or run during that time, I just buff out the dust and overspray - works for me.
I have previously "worked" up the finish with 1200 and soap to a very good result, only to find 12 months later it has pulled down again and "fluttered" the surface finish......... another blocking back........... you said you'd put plenty on, so this will give you a number or options on how you want to work the finish for now................
One big mistake I have recently learned is where I block back between coats with too fine a paper - I now block between coats with 600 sometimes even 400 if it is in a "prone" area - where rocks and debris are likely to hit it - I have done quite a few panels where I have got a mirror finish but unfortunately they chip away at the slightest touch - by dripping down to a coarser paper and running the fist succeeding coat wet (or with slightly more thinners, sometimes a "hotter" one) I have had better results with damage - it's a balancing act - too "hot" and the substrate comes through with "sand scratch swelling" or any fillers show up as wet spots which take longer to flash off and leave a uneven finish - I love spraying acrylic - every "play" is a challenge - I don't think I've done one job yet where I have got exactly the result I was dreading......... acrylic is so forgiving - I have stuffed up many shoots yet been able to "work" the paint up to a brilliant result, compared to what came of my laying it down......
Yes, I can only reflect on what my brother-in-law has been complaining about concerning fuel and maintenance for his trucks - after nearly fifty years in the truck/excavator game, he has finally rid himself of any truck... just now sticking to the machines - his maintenance and road costs have been cut to half a day a week - he "hires" for transport and haulage, tippers etc - there is an abundance of willing blokes trying to keep their repayments in the black............. I don't think he'll ever buy another truck - much to my disappointment - his final was a Mack prior to Renault Macks and then whatever you want in one Macks - ie a real Mack - had a drive or two of it and fell in love............ didn't seem to have any stop under the throttle - just push it down he said if you need more - by golly that one had some grunt............. gone now..... and my chance of ever swapping cogs.......... best truck gearbox I have managed to find my way through........... bloody road-rangers drive me nuts.......... be all right if they were all the same...............
Makes an Aussie 4 speed like a sturmey archer, doesn't it......?
Keep going Karsten, enjoying your project - and bet you are too.......?
frats,
Rosco
Coming along nicely Karsten. I have stayed away from cob for the same reasons as above, plus my first car lasted about 2 months untill the clear started to separate, one sad 16yr old , managed to get the clear off and cut and buff the base coat, came up a treat.
I did my wagon with 6 coats acrylic, which i cut with 1200 wet 5 weeks after spraying. I found cutting compounds vary a bit, and worth spending a bit of money on a good one. Can't remember the brand used but it was about $60 , and found it gave great results even without a machine.
, managed to get the clear off and cut and buff the base coat, came up a treat.I did my wagon with 6 coats acrylic, which i cut with 1200 wet 5 weeks after spraying. I found cutting compounds vary a bit, and worth spending a bit of money on a good one. Can't remember the brand used but it was about $60 , and found it gave great results even without a machine.
Hi Ben - sorry Karsten - I'm jumping all over your post here - I should take it to the "Cam's paint project" we set up for this stuff...............?
Ben, if you have solid colour as your base - this is good practice. if it is metallic or pearl - it must be COB top-coated - that stuff won't stand the rigors of every day life without protection......... it's the one big down side of having an "enhanced" finish............along with trying to match it if damaged.........
As for cutting compounds, I have stated many times I do mine by hand - yes it takes forever - but I find removes the very least amount of paint and affords much "hands on" (no pun intended) enjoyment in working the finish.
I am onto another product for working up a 1200 + soap blocked down finish - it's Meguiar's Diamond cutting compound 2.0 - it has a rank of 10 on the 1-10 abrasion scale ( it took me a long time to remember where I'd smelled the aroma of it - it's Almond -as in wedding cake icing!) and I believe is intended for machine use - I find their cutters work fine for me by hand - I use a "pad" made up by a 1/4" thick hard rubber oblong and wrap a "stockingnette" pad tightly around it.
Applying just enough cutter to work the paint, I rub for and aft alternating cross-cuts at 90 degrees - check the pad surface and once clogged - clean or replace. I also find keeping the pad damp with water whilst using the heavy cutters prevents gouging the removed paint into the surface.
When working in concave or convex curves - I have learned to bend the pad and "roll" my wrists to prevent creating "flats"...........I never cut across an edge or convex curve - I also apply more paint onto these places when spraying as protection against breaking through..............
When I start to get some "shine" I move up to the fine cutters (scale of 3 and 2's) still working in straight runs (still cross-cutting at 90 degs) - it is only when I go to the finishing cutters (Meguiar's call them "cleaners") that I start working circles - overlapping by one third (as in spraying runs).......
This is my method - again, most will turn on the buff and breeze through the paint to bring up the finish...............I'm a dinosaur, I'm afraid but enjoy every opportunity to bring the finish to "life".......
Think we need to carry this across to where it belongs..............?
frats,
Rosco
Ben, if you have solid colour as your base - this is good practice. if it is metallic or pearl - it must be COB top-coated - that stuff won't stand the rigors of every day life without protection......... it's the one big down side of having an "enhanced" finish............along with trying to match it if damaged.........
As for cutting compounds, I have stated many times I do mine by hand - yes it takes forever - but I find removes the very least amount of paint and affords much "hands on" (no pun intended) enjoyment in working the finish.
I am onto another product for working up a 1200 + soap blocked down finish - it's Meguiar's Diamond cutting compound 2.0 - it has a rank of 10 on the 1-10 abrasion scale ( it took me a long time to remember where I'd smelled the aroma of it - it's Almond -as in wedding cake icing!) and I believe is intended for machine use - I find their cutters work fine for me by hand - I use a "pad" made up by a 1/4" thick hard rubber oblong and wrap a "stockingnette" pad tightly around it.
Applying just enough cutter to work the paint, I rub for and aft alternating cross-cuts at 90 degrees - check the pad surface and once clogged - clean or replace. I also find keeping the pad damp with water whilst using the heavy cutters prevents gouging the removed paint into the surface.
When working in concave or convex curves - I have learned to bend the pad and "roll" my wrists to prevent creating "flats"...........I never cut across an edge or convex curve - I also apply more paint onto these places when spraying as protection against breaking through..............
When I start to get some "shine" I move up to the fine cutters (scale of 3 and 2's) still working in straight runs (still cross-cutting at 90 degs) - it is only when I go to the finishing cutters (Meguiar's call them "cleaners") that I start working circles - overlapping by one third (as in spraying runs).......
This is my method - again, most will turn on the buff and breeze through the paint to bring up the finish...............I'm a dinosaur, I'm afraid but enjoy every opportunity to bring the finish to "life".......
Think we need to carry this across to where it belongs..............?
frats,
Rosco
Yep as Rosco stated and as told to me by a spray painter. Solid colours do not need clear. It will only complicate things and cause problems.
The biggest being if you rub through the clear or buff thourgh you will get a line that no amount of polishing will remove and a patch of paint a slightly different shade.
Also as Rosco said, spray all the edges and tops of curves a few times before doing the whole panel as you have less chance of rubbing through.
The biggest being if you rub through the clear or buff thourgh you will get a line that no amount of polishing will remove and a patch of paint a slightly different shade.
Also as Rosco said, spray all the edges and tops of curves a few times before doing the whole panel as you have less chance of rubbing through.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
i did 1200 the whole car today and then had a foam buff on the orbital sander and kh cutting compound and just ran the orbi really slow and then i did hand polish with diamond finish and its come up nice and shiny,,and im sure subsequent polishing will enhance the finish ,,so now i can put it all togeather excluding the interior and exuast and i mite still have to pull motor out again to fix dam oil leak will post some more pics since polished
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
well ive been real busy with the car since wensday got final two coats on ,
polished up the paint and started puting it togetherheres a couple pics
hope you guys like it once i got all the chrome on it,,i couldnt stop smileing
ohh im starting to like it
i must say a holden makes &*#@ paint look a whole lot better
polished up the paint and started puting it togetherheres a couple pics
hope you guys like it once i got all the chrome on it,,i couldnt stop smileing
ohh im starting to like it i must say a holden makes &*#@ paint look a whole lot better
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
-
mrs ratbox