Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 8:22 pm
Harko
Your problems are related to how they were fitted, I mentioned that before.
Have the small springs been fitted to the shaft and a drop of oil to stop them from binding. Another problem could be that the alignment pin that stops the button from rotating in the tube may be slightly bent
I also make spring loaded door poppers to help spring the door after the button is pushed. Newer door rubbers do this as well.
In the 70's I did a pair of doors for a mate as a very quick fix to a 24 hour defect.
I used a 1/2" hole saw to upen up the skin where it had been welded over and cut a slightly smaller circle out of 16 gauge. Welded a 1/4 bolt to the back of the disc and drilled a hole in the activator arm. Using two nuts I adjusted the position of the disc to the outer skin and then tightened the nuts on each side of the activation arm.
A smear of bog over the top and a quick sand to even the surface and we were in buisness. The defect was removed and the primative buttons stayed
The part I didnt like was the metal edge where I cut the hole, sometimes if you were a little careless you caught your finger on the edge.
That how the buttons I made after this had a tube as there base and it neatened the finished appearance
Your problems are related to how they were fitted, I mentioned that before.
Have the small springs been fitted to the shaft and a drop of oil to stop them from binding. Another problem could be that the alignment pin that stops the button from rotating in the tube may be slightly bent
I also make spring loaded door poppers to help spring the door after the button is pushed. Newer door rubbers do this as well.
In the 70's I did a pair of doors for a mate as a very quick fix to a 24 hour defect.
I used a 1/2" hole saw to upen up the skin where it had been welded over and cut a slightly smaller circle out of 16 gauge. Welded a 1/4 bolt to the back of the disc and drilled a hole in the activator arm. Using two nuts I adjusted the position of the disc to the outer skin and then tightened the nuts on each side of the activation arm.
A smear of bog over the top and a quick sand to even the surface and we were in buisness. The defect was removed and the primative buttons stayed
The part I didnt like was the metal edge where I cut the hole, sometimes if you were a little careless you caught your finger on the edge.
That how the buttons I made after this had a tube as there base and it neatened the finished appearance