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If your clutch lever assist spring pops out of the clutch fork when you go to actuate the clutch, I'm willing to guess that the "mouse-trap" part of the spring isn't correctly located behind the "dimple" for the slave cylinder pushrod, under the tabs in the clutch fork.

You may have to use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the "mouse-trap" part of the spring into place. Remove the slave cylinder before attempting to seat the assist spring in place. And beware stored energy. When the assist spring lets go, it really lets go.

Spring tension acts to hold the spring in place, but it needs to be in place first.

Rob

Thanks Rob

All my testing has been done purely on the bench just looking at the action as the lever is pushed forward.

By the sounds of it, all the right pieces are there, the spring is correctly orientated, so I will just go ahead and assemble it and see how it performs once I have everything connected.

Looking at the photos i posted i would have to agree with Rob, the tabs look like they are bent over the spring so it cant escape.

Its tough when you dont pull things apart yourself and you are left guessing i must admit.

Good luck.

Greg

The actual issue is not the spring jumpting out of its holder on the "mouse trap" side, but the level pushing on the coils pivoting the spring around as soon as the lever moves. I took a slow motion video and screen shotted some frames to show the action below. You can see how little the front of the bearing moves before the spring snaps around.
The first pic is the resting position of the level on the front of the slave cylinder.

Can the pivot ball be screwed further into the bellhousing mate ? Looks like its out a few threads from where it could potentially go ???

Heya,

Yes, possibly, I will actually fit the gearbox this weekend and set the gap, not sure how much this will change things though. I will do that and get back to you.
I did move it back to where it was when I took it out, the nut is just loose and brought forward, so gives the impression of it being further out than it is.

Spring is over extending.
3 to 5 mm of travel on a thrust bearing normally to disengage a clutch.
Ball will probably screw in more, measure the clutch fingers from the block and then transfer that to bellhousing to thrust, that will give you a ball park distance.
I’m out of ideas at this point.
Greg

Honestly, thanks to all the replies, it has actually been a big help, as I came in here not sure that I even had the right parts in the clutch. I will do a test fit, set tolerances, and then see how much travel I have.

Thanks again all, and I will update the thread once I have more news just incase some poor soul has the same questions in the future

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Images are good.

Your assist spring is, in fact, seated correctly in the clutch fork. All the parts are operating correctly. And yes, the assist spring coils are supposed to swing over a wide arc as the clutch is actuated.

As for the over-centre "sproing" and spring dropping out of the clutch fork, bear in mind that the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate pushes back hard against the throwout bearing, so the over-centre "runaway" effect won't happen. But to be doubly sure, you could bend the clutch fork's tabs over a little when the assist spring is installed.

I reckon you should be OK. But it'd be a pain in the rear to assemble the gearbox to the motor, try the clutch out and hear the dreaded "sproing".

If you don't have the adjusting tool, go buy a long-handle 3/8" Allen key and cut maybe 1/2" off the foot of the L. With the gearbox out of the car, you'll be able to test-fit the tool to make certain it fits.

Best of luck. I reckon the engineers who designed the EJ gearbox/bellhousing/clutch actuating system deserve their place in Hell.*

Rob

*Go to hrc.au and follow the link to "Accelerator" magazine. Read through the 1963 and 1964 issues for all the articles about fixing EJ gearbox and bellhousing troubles.

Aweomse., thanks again, just what I wanted to hear. The whole mechanism does seem to be working right on the limit with not much tolerance. If they just made the fork sit further back in its home position, it would have given the fork alot more travel before moving the spring around. Live and learn I guess.

Cheers,
B

ardiesse wrote: Fri Apr 17, 2026 2:42 pm
*Go to hrc.au and follow the link to "Accelerator" magazine. Read through the 1963 and 1964 issues for all the articles about fixing EJ gearbox and bellhousing troubles.

Wow, what an amazing resource, so much reading to do

ardiesse wrote: Fri Apr 17, 2026 2:42 pm I reckon the engineers who designed the EJ gearbox/bellhousing/clutch actuating system deserve their place in Hell.*

They are likely the same blokes who designed the inner-most of the three grey starter motor mounting bolts.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Fri Apr 17, 2026 10:17 pm

ardiesse wrote: Fri Apr 17, 2026 2:42 pm I reckon the engineers who designed the EJ gearbox/bellhousing/clutch actuating system deserve their place in Hell.*

They are likely the same blokes who designed the inner-most of the three grey starter motor mounting bolts.

Cheers,
Harv

....... and the location of the engine side retainer clip on a grey motor distributor

Heya, I am having some issues getting the correct slave clutch cylinder for the EJ. I ordered one as below, but the mounts are off.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a place to get the original cylinder? There are a few on ebay, but they are almost $400.
I am also thinking of using the cylinder as below, and just making up a mount for the offset hole.
The fronts seem to be the same of both cylinders just wondering if there are any other differences that anyone knows about?

Cheers,
B

Hi,

That’s not good. Power Brakes in S.A have been around for ages, they would be worth a call / email. Have always had great service and rebuild old parts with stainless steel sleeve liners. I’m not sure where you are but they do postal.

Stephen