The Project Goes Injected.

[Bluehaze]

Did a little more work on the project over the weekend. Spent the day looking after how I'm planning to take care of the accelerator linkage. Already bought the original style pedal from Rare Spares. Came across some pivoting bearing arm thingsmanobs. (if they have a proper name, I'd like to know). And added some length to the middle. They are adjustable as in one end if a left thread and the other right. This made a handy replacement for the original rod, which is pretty Worn out. The conundrum I faced was how to get from that intermediate pivot thing to the throttle body.
I decided to take an excursion to the wreckers and look for inspiration there. I walk out with a throttle cable from a late model Honda, and a throttle pulley from an rb30 motor. Back home, TIG out and the results are below. Full travel of the pedal gives me the 90 degrees of butterfly, and the action is nice and smooth and even. Another baby step down. Now I can focus on the fuel lines, pumps and filters.

[Bluehaze]

Some plumbing this time. First thing was to build myself a surge tank. You can buy these starting at about 150 bucks, but I wanted a mice small one to fit in the engine bay. Found a stainless drink bottle at the disposals,
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cut the neck off, welded some flat stainless sheet there, then welded stainless nuts onto washers, then onto the container. Drilled the holes out on the nuts, then cut some 1/8 bspt threads into them for the fittings. Stainless is a pug to work, but at least I know it won't rust. Leak tested it with compressed air and a bucket of water. No dramas.
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Made some nice stainless brackets and mounted it in the engine bay.
Now the plumbing from the tank. Already run most of the fuel lines, the focus today is attaching the lift pump and pre- filter to the tank. For this, I welded some din rail to the tank (upside down) and used this to contain nuts and washers to attach small bolts with the brackets for the pre-filter and lift pump. The return line in the tank is a brass fitting screwed into a nut/washer arrangement same as with the surge tank. (purged the tank with argon gas before welding anything to it).

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There we are, the sucky bit about this part is I had to mount this hardware after installing the tank. Hopefully next week I'll have the lines finished into the engine bay and the injector pump and filter mounted and plumbed.

[neatride]

Magnificent, and easily retro fitted, great stuff

[Bluehaze]

Did a bit more work over the last couple of weekends. This time, I found a spot to mount the ECU. (fitted to the underside of the glove box, which I made from sheet metal). Ran the loom onto the engine bay via the hole provided for the choke cable. This brings it out just in the right spot to build the rest of the wiring around the engine. Added another 4 relays and 6 fuses to my VR commodore fuse/relay box. If wiring scares you, I suggest you look away. It does neaten up well, and the diagrams look neat.
I thought I'd balance the chaos with a pic of how I did the instrument cluster. That's a 12-way Ampex style connector there. All connections are crimped, soldered and covered with heat-shrink.
The other thing was trial fitting the intake manifold and the extractors. After cleaning the black motor, I removed the hardware and tested it in the engine bay.
The intake runners foul the firewall by about 10mm, maybe less. I plan to remove and weld in a little concave section. The extractors were another drama. They are lukey tri Y type, and the outer secondary hits the steering idler. Tried some persuasion with oxy and hammer, but this was not enough. Instead, I removed the outer secondary and fabricated a new one to dip down and come up again. Now it clears by about 15mm. Any experts know if I just ruined a perfectly good set of lukeys by adding about an inch to one of the secondaries? Or is this only critical at the top end of performance motoring?
While I'm at it, has anyone else done an after-market ECU on a blacky? I'd love to hear from you, as I'm in uncharted waters here, and I'm learning (a lot) as I go along.

[MeFB]

That's looking brilliant! Great job. Love the colour you chose also.

I see you have a clock. If it is still the original movement in there, you might want to put a switch in line (hidden up under the dash) so that you can turn it off when you want to. This will really extend its life and stop the muck from the contacts clagging it up inside

Wish I had of done this with mine I always seem to do the research after my stuff breaks....

[Bluehaze]

The clock works well. I had to fix it up, though (also clagged up). For many weeks I had it set up in the kitchen running off a laboratory power supply. Every week I would check it against my phone time. After successive adjustments over increasing periods, I was happy that it will keep time fairly well. As for the switch, I like the idea, but this will be a daily driver for the wife, so probably won't be needed. That's why I've gone for all the mod cons. The alarm system is installed to protect the over-priced clock!

[MeFB]

my clock has been going ok for 15 years since it was cleaned

Mine went for 15 seconds

I can't take the blame for that though because I had just bought the car when it died. Typical.

But...it will live again, my clock has yet to tick its last tock

Anyway...enough about clocks; back to the FB with the trick wiring and the cool paint...

[MeFB]

For many weeks I had it set up in the kitchen running off a laboratory power supply.

Franken-clock

[NoMAD]

Looking real good there bluehaze... very neat install!

cheers
Nathan

[Bluehaze]

Managed to get the intake runners to fit without having to remove the section in the firewall. A bit of oxy and hammer work and now I've got about 10mm clearance. Brilliant!


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Now the exhaust and the intake fits nicely. Also fitted some EGO bungs in the pipe just after the last collector.


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The first one is a narrow band sensor for the ECU, the second one I plan to either borrow or buy a wideband unit to fine tune the mixture just right. Now I've got the dummy block, head and intake runners in, I can do yet more wiring. Any experts on EFI It would be great to hear from you.
Heres a better look at the mod I did on the lukeys to get the outer secondary clear of the steering idler.

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[Bluehaze]

More work. This time the interior. Been doing some shopping lately. Lashed out on a nice stereo system, decided it would be easier to fit shelf speakers before fitting the rear window. Took the back seat off to be re-trimmed. Chose a Green and white, in the same style as the original FB special.
Arranged with the trimmer to buy enough vinyl to do the two front buckets, trims, shelf and the rear arches. I'm going to wait until after I get her on the road before getting the buckets and the door trims done. At least I'll have all the material and won't have to worry about different dye lots or the colour being dis-continued.
Had a windscreen bloke over to install new front screen and the rear window. I'm glad I didn't tackle it myself, and it was a pleasure to watch someone who is well experienced with the wrap-arounds.
Made the rear shelf and trimmed it in the new vinyl (that's about as complicated as I'll tackle with trimming). Fitted shelf and mounted speakers- pretty happy with that.
Bought carpet and seat belts from Rare Spares. Asked about underlay, they put me onto Knox Auto Carpets, they recommended "Dynamat" even the bloke there said it wasn't cheap, but it's good stuff. He was right, it wasn't cheap. I hope it's as good as the smiling head of Chip Foose says on the box.

Hard work laying that stuff, just working it into all the swage lines and other irregular shapes in the floor, but a couple of hours and lots of tiny cuts in the fingertips later and the floor is definitely less drum like.
Used the left-over closed cell foil backed stuff under the back seat. This stuff went onto the roof before the head lining, so by the time the cars finished, it should have the acoustics of a recording studio!

[Trev]

Have you booked accommodation for the nationals?

[stinky]

Knox Auto Carpets, they recommended "Dynamat" even the bloke there said it wasn't cheap, but it's good stuff. He was right, it wasn't cheap. I hope it's as good as the smiling head of Chip Foose says on the box.

Too late to help you out I know, but I also sell Dynamat and a lot cheaper than what Knox list on their website.

[Bluehaze]

Thanks stinky. When I told my trimmer how much per box, he told me when it was first available in Oz it retailed for 400 bucks! have you heard this?

As for nationals, Trev, no, I doubt I'll get this on road before then. I've been spending like a drunk sailor, and the piggy bank is starting to run low. I reckon I'll have it running, but I'm going to fall short with engineers fee, rego, plates, etc.

Got the carpet and the stainless scuff plates in this morning. Carpet fits my custom hump fairly well. Not perfect, but I'm happy with it. Trickiest part was cutting around the mounts for the bucket seats.
Pretty happy with the week-ends work. Its amazing how a windscreen makes the car look whole. Hopefully I'll get the motor back this week from the re-build so I'll have something to do over Easter.

[Devilrod]

Looking good!

If you've got a heat gun you can reshape the carpet to suit the hump a bit better. I spent a few hours reworking the moulded hump section out of my factory auto carpets as I have added a CRS hump without the bracing inside. Just heat the backing till it goes really soft then put your body weight on it and rework it to suit. Takes a bit of time but well worth out.