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Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:58 pm
by oldnek
wot179 wrote:I made a hammerform for my tubs.Then you can make them any shape you like.
I used cold rolled bright mild steel to tap them up cos it moves easier than zinc anneal,and tigs up nicer.(still hard work cos I used 1.6)
Hope these might help.
Thats a damn shame to paint that over, I would just clear it and let it look all natural.
Nice Job
I haven't used a hammer form as yet, did you still have to shrink the roll curves, or is that finished straight with dead blow.
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:10 pm
by oldnek
Another way you could try and swage, is to use a section of cattle grid and a piece of hardwood dowel. I have made swages using steel gutter grid (which is smaller in size-re:length) You know the ones you used to get your pushbike wheels stuck in

and broom handle the same way with good results.
Somewhere I came across a link where a couple of blokes in Thailand where building a Kombi ute, just using primitive hand tools, fabricating all repair sections by hand.
They were making the rear floorpan using a chisel and wood block, very time consuming but worked.
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:20 pm
by wot179
Pretty much straight off the hammerform.I had it clamped down pretty well with loads of clamps and another lump of ply.
It also had a 20mm return folded down on the bottom edge cos I need that for a hidden fixing into the timber floor,but it had the added advantage of stopping the metal pulling
forward off the hammerform as I pulled the edge over with the dead blow.
Ive been a sheety my whole adult life,but this is my first attempt at making or using a hammerform.
Just bring it around gently and try not to bring too much over at once.
I have lots more pics if you want me to start a thread.
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:24 pm
by oldnek
wot179 wrote:
I have lots more pics if you want me to start a thread.
You should do and then the Mods can post it as a Sticky, this is what people want to see. The more we post up the better it is for all.
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:46 pm
by Blacky
wot179 wrote:I have lots more pics if you want me to start a thread.
Bring it on

Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 7:57 am
by Ed
+1
more pics would be great, I love this kind of stuff.
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:00 am
by parisian62
I have lots more pics if you want me to start a thread.
Yes please!
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 5:59 pm
by Trev
oldnek wrote:
Somewhere I came across a link where a couple of blokes in Thailand where building a Kombi ute, just using primitive hand tools, fabricating all repair sections by hand.
They were making the rear floorpan using a chisel and wood block, very time consuming but worked.
I have seen this also, it was amazing.
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 6:09 pm
by wot179
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:30 am
by Ed
Just a follow up on an old thread...
I ended up buying a bead roller and then bracing it up etc to stop the arm from walking.
besides the silly crank handle, which I want to change next, it's easy to use. teh quality is OK for hobby type use (which is me).
now a question...
I rolled some beads into the floor of a Datsun ute I'm building. I thought.. should hte beads face up or down? I ended up facing them down as I figured over time they would get dented from people getting in and out.
Cheers
Ed
Re: swage lines, Help needed
Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 11:09 am
by Blacky
Sounds to me like you made the right choice Ed
