Hello Stanley, thankyou for your comments. I shared similar reservations to the ones you have expressed; and I originally planned to build something much milder.
However, I was privileged enough to drive Thommo's FB around the streets of Narrandera during the previous Nationals. The hot grey in his car has VERY similar specifications to the engine Eric is building me. Big head (ported, 179 valves), big cam (35/75), a relatively low 8.6:1 compression ratio and triple Strombergs. Given these specifications, I honestly thought (as probably you would) that his car would be difficult to drive down low.
But I was pleasantly surprised and very impressed with how tractable and well mannered his car was at low speeds. It compelled me to do alot more homework on hopping up an engine.
With respect to the triple Strombergs, following Thommo's example mine have been professionally rebuilt, fitted with venturi sleeves and smaller main jets. Smaller venturi size assists with low down torque and tractability. Bolting on a set of tired old Strombergs with worn out throttle butterfly shafts, stock main jets and without venturi sleeves (like some people do) will guarantee the engine will perform very poorly at low speeds.
In regards to the Wade 140 cam, I spoke to Wade Cam's technical expert and point blank asked him "Is this a streetable grind?" He replied that it was contingent on three factors. Firstly, that the static compression ratio be raised to 10.5:1 (the stock grey motor compression ratio is a low 7.5:1). Using a high performance cam without increasing the static compression ratio (to offset the loss of dynamic compression due to the intake valve closing later) will definately cause an engine to produce LESS power than stock and be horrible to drive around town. Secondly, that the car was not a daily driver. Obviously a big cam makes for an annoying daily driver, and my car will be strictly a weekend only vehicle. Thirdly, that adequate carburetion was employed. I said I was using triple Strombergs and he replied that this was suitable.
With respect to the exhaust, I will be using Jack Myers headers, which were designed to be used with a single 2 inch system. Running a twin system right to the end of the car, like some have done with these headers, will cause the engine to produce poor amounts of power down low.
In regards to the diff size, I will use a 3.55 ratio. I have found that most cam manufacturers recommend using a 3.5+ diff when the grind is bigger than 225 @ 50 thou. The rolling diameter of the tyres will be around 24 inches, which was the stock rolling diameter for FBs and EKs.
I will also regraph the distributor and install the Pertronix electronic ignition kit. This will also assist the behaviour of the engine down low.
But in the end, if the car IS a pig to drive, then I will simply get my stock cam reground to Wade 446B or 240 specification, and install that. It doesn't bother me if that is how things turn out.
