fbekholden.com

i decided not to get the diff powdercoated...which was a good decision because it being so heavy and me not having enough jacks meant that i scratched it a bit putting it back in place.
the diff is a borg warner 28 spline with 4 pinion centre, it has been shortened to allow me to run commodore offset rims
the brakes are vl turbo spec
got some pics...but also got dead camera batteries...

was at a mates place today he's painted a chassis with that por15 stuff used a brush to apply looks smooth shinny and he wacked with a hammer and it didn't mark it, may be alright for yor diff

np i will pull it out again and do it properly then
lol

i only put it in to get it rolling so it can go to the panel beaters

That Por 15 product is superb, as tough as ceramic coating, dosn't chip and the finish is pretty good, I know off a few blokes in Syd who have repaired there corroded outboard legs with the stuff and all is oK.

John

so with this por 15 stuff i am not meant to use it with deox-c first?

You Can, or you can clean with wire brush first, then use a rust convertor, then paint it with POR.

A couple of things about rust:

Rust is oxidation of any ferrous or non ferous metal. with the latter being called corrosion, as in all alloys, tin and Zinc etc.

With oxygen present rust will continue to eat just like hungry termites in pine, so if you remove or delete the oxygen from the metal , whether it is rusted or not, it will cease or slow down the rust process.
Thats how the Por 15 product works, it that tough and sealed for life that oxygen can't get into the product it is protecting, unlike paint, in which it is porus hense the need to polish and paint protect to prevent water and oxygen to penetrate under the paint layer and protect the under lying metal.
You know when you polish your duco, and the water beads in drops on the paintwork, thats when you know you have good corrosion protection, unlike when the water spreads all over, thats when she's porus, and moisture is being allowed to slip through that paint protection barrier and sit on the underlying metal, slowly eating you car away inside out.

Regards John

after 7 weeks the bump stops finally arrived...

ok so i have got some pics of how the ute looked after soda blasting...
soda blasting doesnt pit the stainless or chrome and i even left the glass and rubbers in one door and it didnt damage them at all!

sweeeet

NOICE!!

Looks great,
I’m at this stage myself tossing up weather to bead and sandblast or just
sandblast everything except panels or acid dip the whole thing, so I’ve got a question(s) for you please
Who did it?
where are they?
What did it cost?
Were they helpful?
Was there any disadvantages?
Regards Tim

Who did it? www.MelbourneSodaBlasting.com
where are they? Dandenong, off cheltenham rd near east link
What did it cost? 2400
Were they helpful? vince is a top bloke, pulled the front subframe off and put it back on after blasting.
Was there any disadvantages? can someone else fill this one in?...

Thanks for the answers Got no excuses for not doing mine now.
Did you uncover any nasty surprises?

My only concern is that it doesn't look fully stripped? For that sort of money I would expect it to be 100% perfectly clean. Still, most of the hard work is done. I just think maybe it could have been better......

Regards, Smooth

done well!

a good place to start - from scratch

cheers ray