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I hope so too Clay. Im planning on following your lead!

Brett027 wrote:I hope so too Clay. Im planning on following your lead!

Ideally you want to find a supplier like mine Brett. Someone who knows what they are talking about. Someone you can ask specific questions along the way.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yes, and also a practician. I find the shop fellows get you to a point, but its the people who use the products who know them best. The 2k primer/ acrylic primer/acrylic top coat is a classic example. I've been told by retailers no it wont work, and I've been told yes it will work. So in the end all eyes on you!

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All care and no responsibility as they say. Don't worry the 1k surface rf over 2k etch is commonly used on project cars by all accounts. Keying is the key.

More money at the paint shop. No more cork block and fingers rosco.

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Back in black.

Apparently the secret with the chalk dust is to rub it well in with circular motion.

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New technique and tools tell a story.

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Cleaned guide chalk off driver side. More sand throughs.

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Great work.... this is the way to build up the lows...... those break throughs will start to disappear when you block back as the surrounding lows build up.....

Love the block you've bought... by now, you should have got the feel for long passes and learned to "roll your wrist" as you come down on the angle.... the block has to "follow" the curve.... don't lock your wrists..... the block will do the work for you.... long passes and try to overlap full runs by 1/3..... this way, you get a more consistent run along the panel....

the 1/3 overlap is exactly what we do with the gun.... it is a long held tradition that has earned its place in spray painting.... no reason it can't also work for you when blocking down...

Keep the panel wet and clean when you block.... if not, the build up of spent material can put the block on the "plane".. and it will "float" more than block... you'll get undulations if you let too much waste remain on the surface.... don't go silly with flushing, but every now and then - give it a good rinse - and don't forget to do likewise with the face of the block....
If you see an clogging - clean it... or replace the paper.... or you'll "gouge" that clogging into the fresh new surface...

Any acrylic primer left for a few days before blocking back will harden more on the outside... you'll have to work a bit harder to get through that.. but, if you work it too hard, it will cut through into the softer paint film underneath and you'll take off more than you should have.....
I have had breakthroughs doing that... resprayed, and blocked back the following day (instead of a week) and none of the breakthroughs showed up.....

2K - really looking forward to working that as a primer... it will be rock hard and fully cured out all the way through.... no surprises as with acrylic when you break into the soft stuff...

Ok, that's enough for me..... love the circle work - I can see many lows in there yet which will need a bit of work....
How we used to spray and block before guide coat is now beyond me... but, we did..... guide coat makes it just so much easier... in my opinion.

Happy with the new blocking tool?... I hope so - it will become a very valued and trusted friend in your painting tool box....
If it has a fairly stiff face - and you are happy with the results.... start looking around for pieces of scrap rubber etc of about the same hardness... you can then cut them into smaller tools for doing the smaller work and intricate areas... like the outer tops of the ventilation cowl etc. etc.....

frats,
Rosco

Thanks Rosco. The pink one on top of the long board is what I got for the curves. This is going to take time..........


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Time ????

What the hell is that !!!

Another little trick I learnt from a panel beater is to "tap" the high spots with a hammer just enough to get them to sit level with the rest of the panel.

Be careful though otherwise they will turn to lows and will need filling !

Its addictive this painting thing.

Greg

Man this Ute is going to be as straight as a die as they say
Neil

Yes Greg, been tempted. Now I've spot primed the bare bits again ready for another few coats. Bit of a pain as I have to wait for it to dry before build coats.

Neil, it's going to be good enough that s all mate. It's really testing my patience. The roof, dash and jam are good, with the roof just needing cover on as couple of sand thrus to the etch. I can't help thinking it could be easier if I were using all acrylic or all 2k epoxy.

Here's a shot of the roof. I've scuffed it with 240 for the final coat so there are a few scratches but I'm very happy with it. Never thought I'd get it this good what with the spottie hole but a lot of work and filler has gone in to it.

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You are going to add a couple of Kg to the tare weight Clay or maybe it's all on the floor

True Billy. On the floor and in every adjacent orifice.

Talking to a mate last night who is painting a HR wagon and has 9 litres of black top coat on the shell, not including the firewall and underside, which are orange.

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Looking really good now.....
This is addictive.. with the tools and guide coat, you have the ability to bring this to a level only you can decide when you've reached it...
It's what's underneath that will bring up the top coat finish... the more you do down here, the better the potential finish with the buff.....
We never see the "black" of guide coat on grey primer contrast in a top coat... but looking along or across the panel, your eye will learn to pick them up... and they will annoy the heck out of you...."so close... just another couple of coats and I'd have got this out"... as mentioned, it becomes addictive... and obsessive, if you let it....

By the way, I hope that little pink block is "stiff"... the panel beater who tried to tell me how to block down over the counter - told me "as long as you can bend it slightly in your hands - it's stiff enough.... don't take anything you can bend easily with just one hand".

Sort of made sense - but even more so now, that I understand how hard it has to be to keep the surface straight and not allow it to "dip" into lows which are already there.... but must be able to bend enough to follow contours.... I went the other way, used smaller blocks and kept them stiff, then worked along them occasionally to keep any waves out of the run.... that worked better for me than using a softer block... my first block was a "colour sanding block" - rubbish!.... it was like foam rubber - I'd have been better just using my palms and fingers... might have been ok on doglegs and around drain ports etc... but it was almost impossible to get any flat blocking down on anything.... I've still got it - be 30 years since it was wet....

frats,
Rosco

frats,
Rosco